Mazdaspeed6 for road racing

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Fucking welder took his fucking time but he finally dropped off an adapter that will transform my top mount ETS intercooler into a front mount ETS intercooler. Ladies and gentlemen, let me present to you: There is no bead on the hot side yet as we may have to trim it if needed, and the IC square opening will be ported round for improved flow. The IC itself will sit at a slight angle, the bottom will rest on the radiator support, the top will lean against the crash bar and be secured with brackets. The hood prop will be gone and the piping will run over the top of the hacked up radiator support. Here is a rough sketch of the idea except that the ETS IC is shorter (obviously not my car in the picture): We figured with the IC ducting gone from under the hood, there is just enough space to squeeze the piping, will mock up the whole setup hopefully early next week and then order piping and couplers.

NICE! I've been eyeballing my engine bay for the last couple of years and wondering if this was a possibility. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all turns out!

[MSP611]

found these cool pics on brake ducting setups, looks like I might be deleting my fog lights for this... cant go wrong in my eyes.

Brake Ducts

MS3 Brake Ducts

[Code Monkey]

Our stock TMIC (and any aftermarket TMIC that replaces the stock one) is vertical flow.

I mocked up several different setups and the ETS seems to fit the bill the best. If you want to run both hot and cold side over the radiator, you will see that the shape of the hood, once you remove the underhood ducting, dictates that the distance between the center of the pipes be around 17".

You could use a Treadstone TRV 1259, but it is rather narrow ad then you will have to run piping like this:



Or you could use something like a TR335 for BMWs, but with a wide IC you will have to run piping like this:



The distance between the inlet and outlet on the ETS seems to be perfect or almost perfect to run the piping in a straight line, here with a hood line:



I will duct the radiator first and then worry about ducting the IC.

[Code Monkey]

Slow progress is slow but we are getting there. Here is the front view:



And here's the top view:



We will have to trim the top of the radiator support a bit more for piping to clear but it should not be much. The radiator sides are already ducted; rotate the picture 90* ccw for a proper view:



And we plugged the holes in the skirt as well.

Tomorrow or Friday we will mock up piping so hopefully I can order shit this week and we can finish next week or two.

[torquemaniac]

WOW...theres so much space in front of the rad without all the accesories and the crash bar...

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac WOW...theres so much space in front of the rad without all the accesories and the crash bar...

11" from the radiator to the grill, IIRC.

[MSP611]

What material did u make Tht black side ducting out of? Looks like u mounted it with self tapping screws

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by MSP611 What material did u make Tht black side ducting out of? Looks like u mounted it with self tapping screws

Will ask the shop tomorrow. There are 4-5 small rivets on the bottom and there will be one bolt there as well going down and connecting the ducting to the skirt. There are 3 bolts on the side.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Will ask the shop tomorrow. There are 4-5 small rivets on the bottom and there will be one bolt there as well going down and connecting the ducting to the skirt. There are 3 bolts on the side.

Are the 3 bolts on the side self tapping or nuts and bolts?? This looks like a simple great idea. Any pics of how Ur gunna duct Ur intercooler?

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Are the 3 bolts on the side self tapping or nuts and bolts?? This looks like a simple great idea. Any pics of how Ur gunna duct Ur intercooler?

Not sure, once I have the car back I will take the whole front apart for "practice" and see how everything is held together.

We have to figure out first how to run the piping and how to close/duct the top before I even start thinking about ducting the IC.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MSP611 found these cool pics on brake ducting setups, looks like I might be deleting my fog lights for this... cant go wrong in my eyes. Brake Ducts MS3 Brake Ducts

As long as you're OK with cutting the bumper cover a little bit, and doing a little bit of fab work (which you'd be doing anyway with brake ducts), you could probably get away with leaving the fog lights in-place. There's quite a bit of space towards the car's centerline behind the vanity covers for the fog-lights. I don't see any reason why you couldn't throw some duct-work in there and keep your fogs too.

The other option, if you wanted to keep the fog-functionality, would be to pull apart your headlights and integrate the fog-unit like in the 2003-05 MZ6.

[MSP611]

U think I could run the piping and the fogs side by side with the ducting??

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MSP611 U think I could run the piping and the fogs side by side with the ducting??

I don't see why not. If you're already doing fab-work for the piping, you'd just have to go a little farther and make a partial bracket to hold the portion of the fog-light housing toward the centerline of the car in place. Of course, there is the small matter of the crash beam, but you could probably make something work even so.

[MSP611]

Good pics and I will have a custom crash bar I'm building when I'm home so it shouldn't be a problem like in Ur pics.

[MSP611]

Hmmm I wonder how the bracket will have to work for the tubing on the fog light housing.

Here is the tubing I'm thinking of using for brake duct on both the fronts. I would us the horn as the intake and cover with some kind of mesh. I wonder if I just flush mounted it and sealed the back side of the horn if it would stay.

3'' Adjustable Intake Pipe - Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007O0UOI2..._uenLvbGCA8CQG

This is Wat I'm thinking of using for the rear like the speed3 guys did.

Mishimoto MMHOSE-D2 2" x 12' Heat Resistant Silicone Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MED2X2..._pfnLvbEPP3626

Then just hang with zip ties, possibly stainless zip ties for the added strength, and cut holes in the back of the dust shields

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MSP611 Good pics and I will have a custom crash bar I'm building when I'm home so it shouldn't be a problem like in Ur pics.

Not my pics. Those are all from M247...

A custom bar will probably gain you some clearance, but I don't think there should be any real difficulty with room as it is. You could even make it look 90%+ stock.

[MSP611]

Ya ima try to flush mount the blue horn for the fronts and seal it off wit something then make a bracket possibly... Ya there won't be any bulky crash bar there anymore

[MSP611]

U have a picture of the back of the fog light shroud/bumper cover?? How does it mount I don't remember?? Just click in tabs is Wat I'm guessing

[Easter Bunny]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Slow progress is slow but we are getting there. Here is the front view:

you car now looks buck-toothed

[Voltwings]

Lol got me busting out laughing at work.

[Tyhackman15]

You could leave the foglights alone and just add some intakes to the grill area.

[MSP611]

meh takes up front mount area tht would also mean longer ducting which means more weight

[Tyhackman15]

Originally Posted by MSP611 meh takes up front mount area tht would also mean longer ducting which means more weight

Sure it takes up some space but his front mount clearly isn't in those spaces.... and if we're talking added weight of 6 inches of hose (about 10 ounces lol) then c'mon...

It's more of a, whichever location ends up being easier to mount decision, IMO

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[Code Monkey]

Originally Posted by Tyhackman15 Sure it takes up some space but his front mount clearly isn't in those spaces....

I need these "spaces" for fresh airflow to the radiator, this is why I designed the front mount the way it is.

[Tyhackman15]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey I need these "spaces" for fresh airflow to the radiator, this is why I designed the front mount the way it is.

then delete the fog, mount up two of these and call it a day lol https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3626

[MSP611]

U can get those on Amazon for way cheaper. And I'm tryin to figure out a way to do it with keeping the fogs which is fully possible since the fog shrouds have a lot of space on the inner portion towards the grille. I just won't be home for awhile

[Code Monkey]

Yes, that will come in due time.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny you car now looks buck-toothed

Leave it to the @Easter Bunny; to point out the buck-teeth. XD

[Code Monkey]

A little update.

Here's some pictures of the piping. We need two more pieces for the hot side (order placed) -- a 90* bend on the intercooler side and a straight coupler on the turbo side. The cold side is all mocked up and looks good. On Monday, my welder should be picking up the pipe that goes into the TB to weld in a BPV flange and a meth bung, and we should be good to go.

The hood will require slight banging in on the inside as right now it just touches the silicone when it is closed.

The crash bar now has nice vibra mounts for the intercooler.

The hot side pipe will have a bracket welded on that attaches to the IM.

You can also see the side ducting. The top ducting will be added the very last, when we have everything else done.

Last but not least, at some point I will have to get rid of that ugly ass radiator overflow tank and ideally relocate the tank somewhere, just look at this elegant solution on a Miata.

[MSP611]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey A little update. Here's some pictures of the piping. We need two more pieces for the hot side (order placed) -- a 90* bend on the intercooler side and a straight coupler on the turbo side. The cold side is all mocked up and looks good. On Monday, my welder should be picking up the pipe that goes into the TB to weld in a BPV flange and a meth bung, and we should be good to go. The hood will require slight banging in on the inside as right now it just touches the silicone when it is closed. The crash bar now has nice vibra mounts for the intercooler. The hot side pipe will have a bracket welded on that attaches to the IM. You can also see the side ducting. The top ducting will be added the very last, when we have everything else done. Last but not least, at some point I will have to get rid of that ugly ass radiator overflow tank and ideally relocate the tank somewhere, just look at this elegant solution on a Miata.

did u use plastic for the ducting on the sides or sheet metal? u have a better pic of how its mounted I see bolt heads but wat is it screwed/mounted to?

[Code Monkey]

Aluminum (painted black). The bolts go into the stock radiator support frame.

[MSP611]

did u use self tappers or nuts and bolts? hmmm I wanna do this bad hopefully ill have time to do all this shit.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Last but not least, at some point I will have to get rid of that ugly ass radiator overflow tank and ideally relocate the tank somewhere, just look at this elegant solution on a Miata.

uploadfromtaptalk1437430641917.jpg

Go cheap mode

[Easter Bunny]

those cans are actually pretty heavy duty

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by Easter Bunny those cans are actually pretty heavy duty

Considering the toxic liquid inside known as "Monster energy drink", they better be made out of unobtanium!

[Mazdazilla6]

Just reread the whole thread. Wow this car really has gone full blown racecar!

Did you ever think about a Cp-e fmic? I vaguely recall them being vertical flow core.

[Code Monkey]

The cp-e MS6 has been discontinued for a while and by reading on it, the fitment was a hit or miss, but yeah it is/was vertical flow. I am really hoping to have the car back sometime this week for a test run, the car should be finished except I will have to bead roll the piping or have it welded to eliminate as many couplers as possible.

[Code Monkey]

Fuck that Synapse ring with 10,000 bags of rotten dicks!!!!!! It is fucking impossible to squeeze it and slip a nut on the bolt because the fucking bolt is just too short.

I am not sure if I could ground down a bit the tabs on the inside of the ring? In any case, the provided bolts are M4-0.7mm x 12mm, I found bolts in 16mm at the Home Depot, although not stainless steel, shit will have to do for now.

I am going back to the shop tomorrow morning and assuming I can install the valve, I should be able to take the car for a spin. I will only have the B port hooked up, do I just leave the A port open or do I need some sort of a dead plug? @Lex;

The intercooler outlet is ported now for a nice flow.

[aackthpt]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey I am going back to the shop tomorrow morning and assuming I can install the valve, I should be able to take the car for a spin. I will only have the B port hooked up, do I just leave the A port open or do I need some sort of a dead plug? @Lex;

You leave port A open. There are some filter plugs you can get if you're concerned but synapse recommendation is to just leave it open. @Lex; doesn't have that problem personally as he runs a+b.

Tapnstalk

[Code Monkey]

Well, fuck, another fail today.

Went to the shop in the morning, put the fucking Synapse in, tightened everything up, noticed that the intercooler on the driver side was easy to move up and down -- cracked weld. Bill said they would fix it next week. Tried to put the front bumper on, which usually takes me two minutes, no matter how we tried, the shit would just not align. The battery was dead -- I dropped off a special charger for Braille a few weeks ago, but someone disconnected the charger a while ago. Used a Booster Pac to start the car, drove home without the front bumper, Bill followed in his pickup and the bumper.

Fucked around for half a day trying to install the bumper, trimmed some ducting, trimmed some plastic skirt, the passenger side fits perfect, the drivers side no fucking go. In the end I realize it has to be the crash bar, it is sticking out like half an inch further on the driver side, this also explains why the intercooler bracket on that side is longer too.

Will be dropping the car off at the shop Monday morning to have shit fixed. I have no idea how, but the hood line aligns perfectly with the fenders, but with the tmic and the scoop gone there is a huge gap between the hood and the bumper, wtf? In any case, we will need ducting on top of the radiator, now I have a shitload of air flowing happily into the engine bay.

The only positive today is that the car does drive....