my downpipe install

[!andrew!]

I woke up this morning, grabbed some coffee and headed out to my ms3 with high hope that pb blaster did some damage to those damned bolts all over the downpipe and heat shield. its true when people tell you " the O2 sensor is a bitch " and " those mazda engineers really fucked the enthusiast" . anyway after 2 hours i got the O2 sensor out, obviously the first heat shield is out of the way. however, i have run into a problem of a rounded bolt on the back of the downpipe shield.

Any ideas? vice grip didnt work , i thought about cutting the head off with a dremel but you really cant fit much in that space. i have a feeling if i could get that off things would go a bit smoother.

being converted from building a small block v8 for a 65 mustang to this tuning world is pretty rough! any help is greatly appreciated, along with any links to known threads regarding this problem

[Scribbles]

I had the exact same problem. Keep twisting the metal back and forth until it snaps off. Fuck heat shields.

[TexasSpeed3]

if its for sure rounded you could try to jam one size smaller sockey onto it... bolt will need replaced after its out tho

[karl-hungus]

same thing happened to me. head to sears...

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Originally Posted by karl-hungus same thing happened to me. head to sears...

^^^THIS^^^

[!andrew!]

thats what i figured. my first thought was cut the beast off with tin snips, then realized it wont cut through that. bolt out sets will fit back there? i really hate the insane amount of heat shields and bolts in there haha.
well, off to sears to get me a set and go to town on it. thanks for the advice everyone.

[mkey66]

^^^^ughh srry for my lack of tool know-how but what are those

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Originally Posted by !andrew! thats what i figured. my first thought was cut the beast off with tin snips, then realized it wont cut through that. bolt out sets will fit back there? i really hate the insane amount of heat shields and bolts in there haha. well, off to sears to get me a set and go to town on it. thanks for the advice everyone.

That, a hacksaw or sawzall

[TexasSpeed3]

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

[!andrew!]

they are magic sockets. they are used to remove rounded or otherwise destroyed heads that sockets wont get on. also a good way to save a smaller socket if your route is to hammer one on there

[TexasSpeed3]

tis true i wasnt even thinking about a bolt out set. im use to just using what i have

[!andrew!]

my destructive ways turned to the hacksaw. tight area meant a no-go ! oh well. all the frustration building up will be gone instantly when i finally get the dp and cbe in there

[radbrad]

I did my dp a few weeks ago and it was the hardest mod I have ever done. I went through 3 cans on pb, had to re-tap one hole, and rethread 4 of the bolts that come off the turbo. I had to go to ace hardware and buy one new automotive bolt, those are the ones that have the smooth spot in the middle with no threads.

Tips I have:

Auto zone will rent you an o2 socket for free.
O'riley will rent you the thread tapper.
Some tin snips will cut through the stubborn heat shield.
Don't rush!

Half way through I seriously contemplated putting the oem dp back in... But once it is finished, you will enjoy it so much! Flash stage 2 map, wot, love the sound.

[!andrew!]

2nd time i had to re assemble today due to only car. however its just easier every time due to the lack of arnold juice on the bolts. problems this time around though.

1 - top o2 sensor threads non-existent ( didnt have any trouble putting on or taking off) those damn things are too soft.
2 - 02 sensor zip tied to the car for the time being.
3- got bolts on dp free minus 1 bottom header side.- after 3 hours of taking that thing apart i gave up on the last one. any suggested tools or process?

im currently in the stage of " lets see how many bolts we can leave off ". those heat shields really dont need all them bolts anyway.

[vrspeed10]

This what I have to look forward to.. Great. You better believe I am putting never seize on every bolt I take off.. Dp fail hear I come.

[darth_speeder]

This makes me not want to do the dp install too bad its already here

[Scribbles]

Originally Posted by !andrew! 2nd time i had to re assemble today due to only car. however its just easier every time due to the lack of arnold juice on the bolts. problems this time around though. 1 - top o2 sensor threads non-existent ( didnt have any trouble putting on or taking off) those damn things are too soft. 2 - 02 sensor zip tied to the car for the time being. 3- got bolts on dp free minus 1 bottom header side.- after 3 hours of taking that thing apart i gave up on the last one. any suggested tools or process? im currently in the stage of " lets see how many bolts we can leave off ". those heat shields really dont need all them bolts anyway.

Damn it's taken you some time. I think the 02 clips were the biggest pita, i ended up stripping both sensors on the pipe too.
You probably already know this but for taking off that last bolt, get the socket handle as long as you can. Even if you have to place the closed 12point wrench onto the handle to make it longer. You'll be adding a shitton more torque onto the nut when taking it off.

Damn i miss power installs, even with all the bloody knuckles, f-bombs, tool spikage, wondering how the hell did it break/how are you going to fix it. As much as it sucked, I miss turning wrenches on the mazda

[!andrew!]

do it . not all speeds are made the same. maybe you will have better luck ... for me it wasnt the downpipe bolts that were stuck its mostly heatshield problems. also, make sure you have a breaker bar and pplenty of pb blaster. bolt out kit wouldnt hurt either.

[!andrew!]

my main problem right now is space. do i have to remove the manifold

[DuBz]

jeeeez this sounds like such a bitch......no wonder my DP's been sitting in the garage for 2 months.......I guarantee all of this shit will happen to me

[!andrew!]

its fun for the tuner when you get the bolts off. but very frustrating. and before putting bolts in highly suggested to use anti-seize. make sure you have a bolt out kit! im really trying to do this so i can go train in korea and look forward to driving when i get back.
what kind of power is everyone running and whats your set up?

[Schmitty5]

HEAT. run your car hard before trying to fuck with the bolts/o2 sensors. I had no problems with the sensors or any of the bolts, EXCEPT THAT ONE. There's one that is just retardedly hard to get to.

But yea, for those who haven't done this... drive the car before hand, and don't be scared, as long as you have a heavily equipped garage you'll be fine. Beer helps.

[Scribbles]

Andrew, you're not gonna have to remove the ex mani. Dont forget when installing the new dp, have the pipe entering the right side of the car.

[74te27]

Don't use PB Blaster instead use Kroil works a lot better.

[MS3-a(sore)ASS-rex]

Easiest way I've gotten the tough to reach bolts is using a 3/8 ratchet with a 6" or 12" extension, a swivel attachment and a mid depth 14mm socket. Wrap the joint on the swivel with electrical tape so it desn't flail all over the place and give that a try.

After thoroughly soaking the bolt in PB blaster and getting the car warm as well. I just did my DP swap for the 4th time this past weekend. The install really is easy if you do everything in the right process.

[karl-hungus]

What month and year was your car made (inside lower drivers side door sill)?

[!andrew!]

got everything installed. 02 sensor from mazda was for the bottom. now used as a plug since they will not accept it... i torqued everything down good still have a smell and louder than normal noise from the downpipe area. is that all normal ?

loving the stage 2 map

[TexasSpeed3]

well ya it has to be broken in and louder bc its less restrictive and less sound dampening

[vrspeed10]

you would know if you have an exhaust leak. it sounds nothing like any aftermarket exhaust would.

[uncorked11]

I had one issue with mine and it was the lower stud closest to the block. I sprayed PB blaster on everything I could get too a week out, the day before and then the day of before the disassembly took place. It will be well worth it when done. Good luck OP.

[!andrew!]

sweet i think my bolts loosened up while driving. lock tight maybe? sounds like a v8 with drop offs and smells . need car up in the next couple hours

[!andrew!]

FYI im sure someone has posted this somewhere in the forums but... if your using the old bolts for the catback to downpipe flange with them springs on it, use washers so you dont get a gap between the two pipes.

and so it is done ! love the sound

[faeker]

I'm still amazed at how hard of a time people have with the downpipes. My only issue was the back bolt on the heatshield and the disintegration of the stock gasket. I'm down to an hour uninstall/reinstall now. Gratz on your new mod though.

[karl-hungus]

whew! that's the smell of freedom you're talking about.

[!andrew!]

finally got the correct 02 sensor. mazda can suck it. they gave me an 02 sensor for a different " application " and just all wrong. anyway.

got that in and all is good. anyone else have a knocking or vibration coming from say... dp to catback area ? i have checked the bolts for 2 days so far nothing loose, and its on the hangers

[karl-hungus]

what rpm are you getting the vibes? i'd get it at 2800 rpm with my foot off the gas. good excuse to get a cbe now.

[scubasteve711]

this is making me glad that the dealer just changed everything out... (for the fact that they have had all this apart... hopefully they didn't tighten the hell out of everything!