Oil Dip Stick Blow Out

[Agrant97]

Hi all,

This is my first time using this forum. I have a mazdaspeed6 2006. I've changed out the following to date. All the engine seals, piston rings, 2 connecting arms, all the crankshaft bearings, cylinder head bolts, cylinder head cover gasket and exaust manifold, timing chain, transmission displacement mount, cylinder head bolts, oil pan gasket, oil pan, turbo oil lines, Cobb stage 3 intake and maf, short throw shifter, crankshaft assembly housing, transmission synchro rings, oil pump gear, water pump, and all rad and components.
The car died on the road. We found out the battery wouldn't hold a charge. When driving it didn't need anything but I had to keep my rpm above 2300 to maintain car electricity. The car took a lot of power to start.

I thought maybe it was the plugs. I changed the plugs and still a hard start and wouldn't idle without gas above 2300rpm.

I changed the plugs, I checked for antifreeze in the combustion chamber and there was none. There was no signs of any leaking gaskets.

From there I checked my clutch thinking it was possibly failing and causing a rough idle. I changed the clutch to a dual plate stage 4 clutch.

I went to start the car with my friends mazda 3 and it sparked and cranked but didn't turn over. I changed all the relays for the entire car and all the fuses for the hole car.
I then checked both fuel pumps thinking maybe it was a fuel issue. The pumps passed with flying colors. I then checked the filter and it was a little delayed so I changed the filter.
From there I decided it may just need more power to start. I had my friend come with his 2013 bmw 335i. He raved the engine and as he reved hard I held the gas and then pressed the clutch and it turned over.
The car then made it 10km and shut off yet again. I had smoke in the cabin so I check under the hood to find where it was coming from. I see the dip stick has blown out and oil was everywhere.

The only other thing I can change in the car is now the PCV valve. I get under the car to check the valve.
Pulling to hard on the hose I accidentally broke it off. There was oil in the top half of the PCV valve where it snapped.
Tomorrow the car is getting the PCV valve changed, new battery, oil change and new BOV.

Fyi: I'm keeping the car it's my dream car and I'm not a mechanic I'm just very mechanically inclined and love to work on all different cars.

I am not sure if that will work but I am praying it will solve the issue. Any comments/suggestions? I use synthetic castrol performance oil only.

[MSMS3]

Wow! Lots going on. Lots of stuff thrown on the car somewhat blindly chasing problems without a real diagnosis.

After you get the latest "throw parts at it" done, may I humbly suggest real diagnostic testing?

Static and leakdown compression test.
Vacuum reading at idle.
Smoke testing of the intake to look for and identify any boost leaks.
Run a check engine code tester and post any numbers.
Get or borrow some form of data logging to connect to the OBD-II port. Search here for logging parameters and load them. Log from 3,000 to redline at WOT in 3rd or 4th gear. Post log.

Or take it to a dealer and have them run Mazda diagnostics and get the report.

[thatguy0o0]

I don't know about the dipstick deal but if my car wasn't holding a charge I would start with testing the battery, alternator, and the ground. I could be wrong but those seem like the obvious culprit for an electrical anomaly. Is there a reason that you didn't check those already? I mean was the car lagging or something that made you go straight to checking the plugs and then the clutch?

[Thor Hammer]

Originally Posted by Agrant97 Hi all, This is my first time using this forum. I have a mazdaspeed6 2006. I've changed out the following to date. All the engine seals, piston rings, 2 connecting arms, all the crankshaft bearings, cylinder head bolts, cylinder head cover gasket and exaust manifold, timing chain, transmission displacement mount, cylinder head bolts, oil pan gasket, oil pan, turbo oil lines, Cobb stage 3 intake and maf, short throw shifter, crankshaft assembly housing, transmission synchro rings, oil pump gear, water pump, and all rad and components. The car died on the road. We found out the battery wouldn't hold a charge. When driving it didn't need anything but I had to keep my rpm above 2300 to maintain car electricity. The car took a lot of power to start. I thought maybe it was the plugs. I changed the plugs and still a hard start and wouldn't idle without gas above 2300rpm. I changed the plugs, I checked for antifreeze in the combustion chamber and there was none. There was no signs of any leaking gaskets. From there I checked my clutch thinking it was possibly failing and causing a rough idle. I changed the clutch to a dual plate stage 4 clutch. I went to start the car with my friends mazda 3 and it sparked and cranked but didn't turn over. I changed all the relays for the entire car and all the fuses for the hole car. I then checked both fuel pumps thinking maybe it was a fuel issue. The pumps passed with flying colors. I then checked the filter and it was a little delayed so I changed the filter. From there I decided it may just need more power to start. I had my friend come with his 2013 bmw 335i. He raved the engine and as he reved hard I held the gas and then pressed the clutch and it turned over. The car then made it 10km and shut off yet again. I had smoke in the cabin so I check under the hood to find where it was coming from. I see the dip stick has blown out and oil was everywhere. The only other thing I can change in the car is now the PCV valve. I get under the car to check the valve. Pulling to hard on the hose I accidentally broke it off. There was oil in the top half of the PCV valve where it snapped. Tomorrow the car is getting the PCV valve changed, new battery, oil change and new BOV. Fyi: I'm keeping the car it's my dream car and I'm not a mechanic I'm just very mechanically inclined and love to work on all different cars. I am not sure if that will work but I am praying it will solve the issue. Any comments/suggestions? I use synthetic castrol performance oil only.

Uh, wow man. You have done quite a bit. Stage 4c clutch? What brand?

Not sure what a trans displacement mount is.

Anyhow, time for a comp and leakdown test as suggested.

You have an AP right? Any codes? Have you taken a datalog to see whats happening?

[Jeff23spl]

An alternator with shorted diode will become a load on the electrical system as well as a load for the engine to run until it get hot enough to catch fire.

when installing a new battery, i would check the remaining load by reading miliamps going out of the battery. Start with the 0-10amps scale in case the alt is short. The lowest number will read just after a while when the bcm turn off all the load that stay on for a minute after engine shutdown. Compare your results with the Mazda specs and if it is higher remove the fuse 1 by 1 to find where the load comes from...


When the engin runs, you should read between 13.5 and 14.5 volts (usually 13.8) but confirm your meter on another car if you get strange numbers...

Once this is done and you repaired the electric problem, if it is still hard to start you may check elsewhere.

i dont get if you just replaced the rings without machining the cylinder bore but it could be a major reason of blow by to pop up a dipstick. (Round rings in an ovale cylinder)