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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Finally FINALLY after all the blood sweat and tears she was running with no check engine light on, no limp mode no issues. It was running like utter crap on whatever "tune" that the previous owner had (and it still has 1/4) tank of 89 octane and stale gas mix, not by choice) so I re flashed it with an AP to a 91 stage 2 tune to match the mods I had done (directly from Cobb's website) and it ran the smoothest it ever has. I decided to wait for my old man before test driving, in fact I had him do it because he has a lot more experience with manual transmissions. We turned out of the driveway got maybe 1/4 mile down the road and he gave it some gas, it accelerated beautifully I wasn't watching the boost level though and it slipped my mind to tell him to stay out of it below 3000 until we hit that 3000 mark and we heard a loud popping along with a violent jolt he wrote it off as backfire due to bad gas and went into 3rd and it did it again, we pulled off at a gas station at the end of the road and he said the clutch pedal was vibrating, along with a nice clacking sound. I'm not really sure what happened but from what I've been reading it sounds like I have a bent rod I'll post the video link once YouTube clears the upload. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score That really sucks to hear. Are you planning to rebuild?
__________________ 2008 Metro Gray Mica Speed 3-SOLD Corksport SRI Corksport TIP JBR 80 duro RMM Cobb AP v3 Autotech internals CX Racing FMIC SPC rear camber arms Hawk HPS pads front and rear FREEKTUNE OTS+ 1998 Civic - SOLD2011 Speed3 200k+ miles Stock -Daily |
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__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed6 EFR 7163|FMIC|South Bend|FCM coilovers|Powerbrake BBK|RPF1 18x10.5|Nitto NT01 stripped|caged|freektuned 2017 Subaru BRZ MCS TT1 coilovers|Brembo BBK|6UL 17x9|RE-71R|ACE 350|flex fuel|Delicious tuned |
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| The Following 20 Users Say Thank You to Code Monkey For This Useful Post: | 802MS3 (11-15-2015), blackmicamps6 (11-20-2015), chaser27 (11-18-2015), CJM (11-15-2015), CWP_MS3 (11-16-2015), DingoDave (11-17-2015), Djohns (11-15-2015), Dralphy (11-16-2015), HawkeyeGeoff (11-19-2015), ItsNox (11-18-2015), Jason43 (11-19-2015), Jkspeed (12-02-2015), kgb (11-20-2015), MD1032 (11-17-2015), Micha (11-15-2015), Monotonous ONE (11-15-2015), Neverlift (11-18-2015), Pu Manchu (11-14-2015), Raider (11-16-2015), WetzMS3 (11-17-2015) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Still weighing the options and trying to put all frustration with it aside before I make a decision, besides I'm flat broke for a while, so no telling if and when I'll take the plunge. I'm not even sure what caused it I'd hate to rebuild and have it happen again. I appreciate it homie.. Last edited by Brannon; 11-14-2015 at 09:11 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's possible that previous abuse started the problem, which is why it was parked. If you do rebuild, you could always go stronger.
__________________ 2008 Metro Gray Mica Speed 3-SOLD Corksport SRI Corksport TIP JBR 80 duro RMM Cobb AP v3 Autotech internals CX Racing FMIC SPC rear camber arms Hawk HPS pads front and rear FREEKTUNE OTS+ 1998 Civic - SOLD2011 Speed3 200k+ miles Stock -Daily |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score True although the engine sounded healthy before last night no odd sounds or vibration, I failed to mention once we got pulled over I saw it had the check engine light on, a few codes with description unavailable then one for over boost and one mass air pressure high input or something along those lines my dumbass self decided to clear the codes although this was before I knew about the vibrating clutch and clattering, and of course I didn't log anything. It must be amateur hour |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mass Air Flow Circuit High Input or MAP Pressure Circuit High Input? Since you never stated, you said that it had old 89 octane in it, but did you ever drain that out or top off the tank? Did you have compression numbers? Not trying to be a pain, just seeing where things could have went south. Last edited by broda; 11-15-2015 at 08:59 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wait...it still had old 89 octane in it when your dad was going into boost?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bad old gas AND 89 Octane and you flashed a 91 map and got on it sounds like you're at fault
__________________ 2012 black mica MS3 ; 3.5 HTP/ Catless DP/ AT HPFP/ APV2/ FMIC/ GFB BOv/ 3" CBE/ RMM/ XXR 530(18x9 +33)/ NT05 245/40/18/ 3bar map/ 3 port EBCS/ bnrs3/ DO stg2 dvc30/ REAR swaybar/ EBC Yellow/ CS Inj seals/ PNP IM/ Manley H-Beam/ Manley platinum piston 87.5/ soon...... PI+ BNRs6+ 44mm TIAL+ ACT 6 puck ![]() E35 meth d012 26psi ![]() 420/451 self tuned/built |
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| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This engine cannot handle anything less than 91, especially if you overboost, especially especially if you overboost at low rpm. Sorry dude. Hopefully you can find a stock motor for a good price. EdgeAutosport sells re-man'd short blocks. Whatever you do, DO NOT TURN ON THE CAR AGAIN. It WILL shoot a broken rod out of the block. Do not make this more expensive for yourself.
__________________ '08 CWP MS3 w/ T3 3071r |
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Map pressure high circuit input I'm pretty sure. And yeah that bad gas was mixed with a couple gallons of fresh 89 that my old man put in there without my knowledge I told him that we needed to drain the tank and put at least 91 in it but you know how old shade tree car guys are "I've had v8 motors with more compression than this that ran fine on 89 before we worry about that stuff let's make sure it runs." Well it did.. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well then there's the answer for the engine blowing up. Bad gas alone will cause knock, 89 octane will cause it to knock, combine those two under boost and ZZB. |
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Yep. If you knew my old man you'd know why it still had the old gas in it, he swore it'd be fine and you honestly can't win arguments with him about cars he "knows all" even about these cars that he's never even seen before. | |
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Should've picked up tank of new 93 octane (or the highest octane you had available) to dilute the old stuff and took it easy for a while. Woulda cost a little time and a few dollars for gas you were gonna put in there anyway. Do yourself a favor, ignore your dad and just read this forum if you intend on keeping the car.
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This sounds identical to my dad when I first got my speed. It was hydrolocked and we rebuilt it together. We reused the stock parts cus it was on his budget and 5000 miles later, I overboost and bent rod 1 and 4. Now I am forged and it is running better than ever because the build was done on MY budget and done by me. You really can't win any battles with dad's like that. I wanted to get rid of the car because we were disagreeing so much. Hopefully you can work things out and get it back up and running!
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's | |
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Yeah it was my intention to get it to the end of the road and pump some gas in it, because all the gas cans at the house were full of 89, I was thinking about putting some octane booster in it too to try to equal it out for the bad gas but it bent a rod less than half way there. When we got back home he was trying to figure out what happened and why and I said "it could have been that 1/4 tank of bad gas" and he said "no its probably this bullshit you put on it" pointing to the corksport sri I put on to replace a broken Mazdaspeed CAI . It's a struggle trying to tell someone stuck in the old v8 way of cars how these things work.
Last edited by Brannon; 11-15-2015 at 10:17 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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I've heard that one before.. Really makes you just not want to stop working on cars. I really feel you in this one man. My dad was more worried about me getting my boost problem figured out than how the motor was running. The boost problem was my fault cus I had 2 connectors switched for the ebcs and I even showed him the EXACT connector in a picture and he still didn't believe it. He thought it was something with the JNR turbo inlet pipe I installed. So now I just tell him to stop if he tells me anything cus he knows he doesn't know anything and he even told me that plenty of times after he was trying to "apologize" for being a dick to me.
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's | |
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Gotta love dear old dad he told me yesterday "Those guys on the forums are ate up, saying not to go into boost under 3000 rpm how are you supposed to control that you should drive it normally it's a family sedan" well now we see where that got us. He messaged me a few minutes ago saying that it was boost cut he's been reading about these cars and it's a common problem that they get boost cut around 3000 rpm and bend rods and that's what mine did. I'm not going to disagree it popped very loudly and my head almost high fived the windshield any thoughts anyone? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You shouldn't be seeing boost cuts at 3000rpms considering you shouldn't even be high in boost at that point. Unfortunately he's probably never going to take the responsibility of having the engine knock to high heavens from the gas and the early WOT. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My dad did some "reading" as well. His few minutes didn't match my hours and hours of research to find out everything about my car. I have the log I was taking when I overboosted and blew my motor and it was completely normal besides the boost spike. I would try to do your own research as well just to make sure you have all the info for what happened. A boost cut isn't the only thing that could have happened. It was probably more along the lines of fuel cut with that 89 you had in the tank. Fuel cut and boost cut can feel similar.
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's |
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Last edited by broda; 11-15-2015 at 11:13 AM. | |
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Yeah he's trying to tell me now that the engine never knocked it just experienced boost cut | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The engine will knock whenever there is boost or fuel cut. And if you bend the rod, it will audibly knock and show a reading of 5.95 on the Knock Retard if you have an Accessport.
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The car was ticking when you pulled over right? Like a REALLY loud and fast ticking/banging? Not a quiet one cus that would be the injectors and HPFP. I'm talking loud.
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah it was decently loud, would go faster with engine speed (though a cam drive pump would do the same) and you could feel a vibration through the clutch pedal up until it was depressed halfway then it would come back with the clutch pedal to the floor. If YouTube would clear my upload I'd post the video I took. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You can't hear the HPFP while inside the car so you most likely have some squiggly rods in your motor. And the clutch would probably be vibrating too. So the best thing to do is to drain all the oil and remove oil pan and just use a flash light to check the rods. They will look like this if they are only slightly bent. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1447613040.754893.jpg
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's |
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Yeah it's definitely audible in the car, I was planning on dropping the pan tomorrow when I'm back home. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Let us know what you find.
__________________ 07 Black Mica MS3: Built motor- SP63 Pro Series 88mm 9.5CR pistons, Manley H-beam rods, Clevite Main/Rod bearings, ARP main studs, L19 head studs, ACT 6-puck sprung clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel, AP V3, Stratified E85 tune/EBCS, NGK plugs, Autotech internals, Corksport injector seals/short shift plate/shifter bushings/LED kit, Cp-e FMIC/catless down pipe, Damond RMM/TMM, Mazdaspeed CBE, JBR SRI/TIP/recirc hose/BSD/oil pan baffle/EGR delete/51r battery box, Forge V2 BPV, Koni yellows, and Cobb springs, Gold Enkei RPF1 w/ 245/45/17 sport comp 2's |
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Rods bend because somebody is doing something stupid, like going into boost at low RPM on 4 year old low octane gas with an aggressive (improper) tune. My car as 146k miles on the original motor on a gtx3076r turbo for the past 20k miles. Proper maintenance, reading this forum, and a good tuner have helped me get this far.
__________________ 3rd rebuild on the way...maybe... | |
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Fuck your dad! Old school V8 mentality. MSF and NATOR for the fucking win!!!
__________________ 2007 MS6 GT: HTP 3" Full Intake, CS TMIC, AutoTech Internals, APv3, Forge Version 2 BPV(Blue+1 Shim), CP-E Catted DP, Whiteline RSB, CP-E Rear Diff mount, CP-E RMM, CS transmission mount insert, JBR Stage 2 OCC, JBR Boost tubes and recirc hose, Bilsteins B6's all around, Techna-Fit SS clutch and brake lines with ATE fluid, FreekTuned! |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Man my pops is the same way. He built a 1969 GTO and other cars but old school v8. When I talk about some of the turbo stuff and how things work on our engine it blows his mind.
__________________ 2010 black mica speed3 The go: Depo racing: downpipe (100 cell count), custom: FMIC. HTP: 3.5" intake, under route piping. JBR: shortshifter, RSB. Autotech: HPFP internals. Go fast bits: hybrid BPV, VMR: 18x8.5 V710s, Bridgestone: potenza re760 245/40/18, KW: v3 coilovers,SPC: camber arms, freektuned, Damond Motorsports: dual OCC, PMM, PCV plate, RMM, TMM, EGR delete, FoSt mani, Corksport: battery box(fuck this thing), injector seals, Cobb: EBCS, AP v3. AEM: methanol. Seibon: carbon fiber hood. UR: catback. Bosch: 3bar. BNR: s4, DNP: EWG manifold, Tial: 38mm mvs EWG. The show: 5% tint all around, 50% tint windshield, rally armor mudflaps, Sony XAV64BT touchscreen headunit, katskin leather interior, CPE relocation plate, Maisonvi weighted shift knob, Corksport hoodscoop, black housing headlights. Soon:built motor |
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![]() | | #34 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not to add confusion, but if you have the log of when this happened, you should post it. I bent a rod, and never heard it. The clutch vibes were only in a very specific position, not all the way in, or out. Clutch felt like ABS petal when barely pressed. Can't go wrong with draining the oil and checking compression. Could be something other than Zoom Zoom Boom
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| rabble rabble ![]() Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Delawhere
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it felt like your face was going to hit the dash from the car cutting, its most definitely boost cut from overboosting, meaning the boost control was hooked up wrong and the car had no way to control the boost. Unfortunately the boost cut in the ECU is extremely slow. It won't cut boost until a solid 3-5 seconds after you pass the target, and at the point on a stock turbo is like 30psi.
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__________________ Max Bolted and Built Stock K04 |
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![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #39 | ![]() |
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Yeah sadly I wasn't logging due to my excitement to finally have the car out of limp mode (bad fuel rail pressure sensor along with everything else) rookie mistake. But I have the clutch vibe bad when barely pressed then it goes away along with the clattering in the engine around half depressed. | |
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