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 Old 05-12-2012, 06:07 AM   #1
 
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Default Rotella T6 fact or fiction

I was talking to my performance parts guy and good friend, who was talking to his rep from Royal Purple oils. According to the rep, SAE (society of auto engineers) have pulled or drastically dropped the Zinc and Phosphorus from all 2012 major oil lines (Synthetic, unsure about additives to conventionals), including RT6.

I have been trying to find more information about this subject, but havent come up with anything conclusive. Apparently the Zinc and Phosphorus degrade catalytic converter performance over time.

Some oil product lines have been spared, but they include lesser companies like Royal Purple, Amsoil and some others but dosent include all their products. I was told look for products that dont have an SAE designation on the back...Royal Purple HPS is suppose to be safe.

I am trying to find more info, does anyone else have experience in the petroleum field or heard about this madness?
I know this has been happening to oils for some time, but the additive package has been all but removed it will no longer help to the levels previously enjoyed.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 06:11 AM   #2
 
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Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 + Ford Transmission Fluid # XT-M5-QS, SEA 75w-90.

/Thread
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:05 AM   #3
 
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rotella t6 has not pulled Zinc and Phosphorus from their oil.

we use this oil because it's made for diesels, with a lot more detergents then most oils..

IMO it blows RP, Mobil 1 and many other "top" oils out of the water...

it's fact not fiction so...

thread/
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:11 AM   #4
 
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Royal purple = 1 quart additional oil every 1K miles in my built motor.

Rotella = <1 quart additional oil per 3.5K...

Rotella FTW...
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:23 AM   #5
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Regardless, if the additives are subtracted, across the board, that still leaves Rotella on top.
AMSoil always fared well in UOA's, but Rotella always fared better.
Royal Purple was always shit.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:25 AM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by SyntheticAtmosphere
I was talking to my performance parts guy and good friend, who was talking to his rep from Royal Purple oils. According to the rep, SAE (society of auto engineers) have pulled or drastically dropped the Zinc and Phosphorus from all 2012 major oil lines (Synthetic, unsure about additives to conventionals), including RT6.

I have been trying to find more information about this subject, but havent come up with anything conclusive. Apparently the Zinc and Phosphorus degrade catalytic converter performance over time.

Some oil product lines have been spared, but they include lesser companies like Royal Purple, Amsoil and some others but dosent include all their products. I was told look for products that dont have an SAE designation on the back...Royal Purple HPS is suppose to be safe.

I am trying to find more info, does anyone else have experience in the petroleum field or heard about this madness?
I know this has been happening to oils for some time, but the additive package has been all but removed it will no longer help to the levels previously enjoyed.
Do you need to know how many and what kind of chemicals are released in your brain when you touch your little pee pee at night?! FUCK NO!!! You just know it feels good! Same goes with your oil and motor. Do you really need to know the exact chemical composition and amount of zinc and phosphorous and all these other big words I can't pronounce? Again FUCK NO!! The UOA's tell us this is the best oil for our motors. And as stated above the dipstick tells us this too. So stop worrying about it and just use it! And tell your SAE friend to eat a bag of dicks!

/thread
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:32 AM   #7
 
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I will be doing an analysis on my oil in a couple of weeks at this next change, Ill post results. Rotella T6 purchased in March, 3500 miles or so on the oil.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:34 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Bucker
I will be doing an analysis on my oil in a couple of weeks at this next change, Ill post results. Rotella T6 purchased in March, 3500 miles or so on the oil.
I'll be doing it as well with 4,000 miles. Although I am no where near your abuse. It will be good to show the dealership if I ever go boom.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:46 AM   #9
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Wait. Performance parts guy and good friend? you can always add zddp.

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 Old 05-12-2012, 08:06 AM   #10
 
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Rotella and valvoline vr1 are the only oils Ill use hands down.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 08:15 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by driver311 View Post
Rotella and valvoline vr1 are the only oils Ill use hands down.
Dont you have something better to do? Like install a badass motor
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 Old 05-12-2012, 08:41 AM   #12
 
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Of course an RP rep will say to use RP.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 11:02 AM   #13
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And don't forget. Tony Stark uses rp.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by driver311 View Post
Rotella and valvoline vr1 are the only oils Ill use hands down.
got hooked on the valvoline vr1 huh?...

that shit is the best oil ever....

valvoline synthetic is not bad at all either..

VR1>Rotella>Valvoline syn......

Originally Posted by bigriver View Post
Of course an RP rep will say to use RP.
I'll admit one thing, RP is def a good oil for race days...

the track, road course, autox..... but it's one of those oils that need to be replaced after hard driving even after just 2 days...

RP felt rough after only 1800 miles...
Mobil 1 the same deal
Rotella is the shit
Vr1 looked and felt the same after 3500 miles.... the best ever...
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 Old 05-12-2012, 02:06 PM   #15
 
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I was looking for insight and feedback on the topic...got it, thanx! Unfortunately arguments backed up by "a bag of dicks" isnt very quantitative evidence

The RP guy even admitted that some of the RP product was also affected, I just wanted to see if I could find anything about the ZDDP being reduced yet again, all in the name of emmissions.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #16
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I added zddp to my rotella. Exhaust smelled like a wet unicorn fart.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 08:17 PM   #17
 
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ive been using rotella every since ive been driving, its great stuff. everyone looks at me weird when i recomend it but my dads 93 ranger has 293k miles on it and his 89 camry has 267K which have seen nothing but rotella. they have had nothing more than regular maintenance and both still run great.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 08:18 PM   #18
 
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Reading the replies to the OP reminds me of the old MSF, but I have an even better thing to say WHOTHESHITCARESABOUTTHESTOCKCATGETACATLESSDPALREAD YBROWNIE!!!!!
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 Old 05-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by SyntheticAtmosphere
I was looking for insight and feedback on the topic...got it, thanx! Unfortunately arguments backed up by "a bag of dicks" isnt very quantitative evidence

The RP guy even admitted that some of the RP product was also affected, I just wanted to see if I could find anything about the ZDDP being reduced yet again, all in the name of emmissions.
I stand by my bag of dick statement because it was both funny and correct.
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 Old 05-12-2012, 09:34 PM   #20
 
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I've heard good things about RP HPS but not about RP.
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 Old 05-13-2012, 02:32 PM   #21
 
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if you live in colder climate areas i would highly recommend let your car warm up fulling before moving it, because using such a heavier weight oil on an overhead cam motor
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 Old 05-13-2012, 03:01 PM   #22
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I've always let my car fully warm up before I go anywhere in any season.
But thanks anyway brownie.
I thought that was just common knowledge.
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 Old 05-13-2012, 03:10 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com
if you live in colder climate areas i would highly recommend let your car warm up fulling before moving it, because using such a heavier weight oil on an overhead cam motor
Also before you start spitting useless Incorrect information, please know that the "5" in 5w40 is the cold viscosity. Same as 5w20 and 5w30. So your "theory" is completely wrong. Might want to do a little research, BROWNIE!
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 Old 05-13-2012, 05:14 PM   #24
 
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though it should be common knowledge i just thought id throw that one out there
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 Old 05-14-2012, 04:56 AM   #25
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bummed i can't use rotella in the coyote (5w20). thinking about pennzoil ultra.
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 Old 05-25-2012, 12:06 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by driver311 View Post
Rotella and valvoline vr1 are the only oils Ill use hands down.
Originally Posted by GODspeed7 View Post
I'll be doing it as well with 4,000 miles. Although I am no where near your abuse. It will be good to show the dealership if I ever go boom.
Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx View Post
rotella t6 has not pulled Zinc and Phosphorus from their oil.

we use this oil because it's made for diesels, with a lot more detergents then most oils..

IMO it blows RP, Mobil 1 and many other "top" oils out of the water...

it's fact not fiction so...

thread/
Originally Posted by SyntheticAtmosphere View Post
I was talking to my performance parts guy and good friend, who was talking to his rep from Royal Purple oils. According to the rep, SAE (society of auto engineers) have pulled or drastically dropped the Zinc and Phosphorus from all 2012 major oil lines (Synthetic, unsure about additives to conventionals), including RT6.

I have been trying to find more information about this subject, but havent come up with anything conclusive. Apparently the Zinc and Phosphorus degrade catalytic converter performance over time.

Some oil product lines have been spared, but they include lesser companies like Royal Purple, Amsoil and some others but dosent include all their products. I was told look for products that dont have an SAE designation on the back...Royal Purple HPS is suppose to be safe.

I am trying to find more info, does anyone else have experience in the petroleum field or heard about this madness?
I know this has been happening to oils for some time, but the additive package has been all but removed it will no longer help to the levels previously enjoyed.
Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com View Post
ive been using rotella every since ive been driving, its great stuff. everyone looks at me weird when i recomend it but my dads 93 ranger has 293k miles on it and his 89 camry has 267K which have seen nothing but rotella. they have had nothing more than regular maintenance and both still run great.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...thread-114651/
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 Old 05-25-2012, 09:29 PM   #27
 
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Thankyou Bucker, this is the most convincing post on this topic and backed up by your report page I can see that the T6 ppm has remained at a decent level.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 09:54 AM   #28
 
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Go here for gasoline: Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline - Bob Is The Oil Guy

And here for diesel : Used Oil Analysis - Diesel - Bob Is The Oil Guy

/thread
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 Old 05-26-2012, 09:59 AM   #29
 
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Rotella Bitch.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 10:21 AM   #30
 
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I don't use t6 is this car. I tried it when I 1st bought the speed since I've used it for years in my Subies had some laying around. I could FEEL the car bog down right when I changed it. Switched to PU/PP 5-30 and have never had an issue. I really think 5-40 is too heavy for this motor. If you can find a different weight, more power to you.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 11:52 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I don't use t6 is this car. I tried it when I 1st bought the speed since I've used it for years in my Subies had some laying around. I could FEEL the car bog down right when I changed it. Switched to PU/PP 5-30 and have never had an issue. I really think 5-40 is too heavy for this motor. If you can find a different weight, more power to you.
I really think you are incorrect.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 05:54 PM   #32
 
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I don't. how is it I felt the difference when driving? To each their own, I'm not saying it's not a good oil by any means as I used it starting back in 2005 or so. Each car is different and climate plays a big part in that.

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 Old 05-26-2012, 07:58 PM   #33
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
I don't. how is it I felt the difference when driving? To each their own, I'm not saying it's not a good oil by any means as I used it starting back in 2005 or so. Each car is different and climate plays a big part in that.

@Bucker
Hey,

If you actually felt a difference I would be concerned that there is much more going on. I posted my results from an analysis on the T6 in a VERY hard driven car with plenty of nitrous etc and it is better than many analysis that I have seen from other oils under more favorable conditions.

As far as your climate statement goes, the T6 would be great in a hotter environment. The viscosity lends itself to our climates. It's designed as a diesel oil. Our engine functions in a VERY similar manner to a turbo diesel.

As you said, to each their own.
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 Old 05-26-2012, 09:26 PM   #34
 
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@Bucker

When I'm at 113K. And I don't drive like a grandma. I doubt there is anything more serious to be looking for as this was done 3+ years ago. It acts similar due to the viscosity and fuel dilution, nothing more. And that's for extended OCI's. I do 3K OCI's....

BTW... Linked UOA's on BITOG on T6
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 Old 05-28-2012, 03:30 AM   #35
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Lol @ feeling a difference in oils.
At 3k oci.
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 Old 05-28-2012, 08:09 AM   #36
 
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^Have you done any UOA's to see how much fuel you have in your oil at any given mileage?
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 Old 05-28-2012, 08:13 AM   #37
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Nope. I'm using Rotella because of its resistance to fuel dilution.
All a UOA is going to tell me is what we already know about the oil.
And that is that it's the best oil for this platform.
Proven time and time again.
Why would I bother with a test to determine something so many others have already determined?
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 Old 05-28-2012, 08:20 AM   #38
 
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You're not getting what i'm saying.

Depending on how you drive and how long you wait between OCI's determines the fuel in the oil. It loses it's resistance to FD after XXX amount of miles. @Tokay444

Not to mention, every car is slightly different.
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 Old 05-28-2012, 08:23 AM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by SyntheticAtmosphere View Post
I was talking to my performance parts guy and good friend, who was talking to his rep from Royal Purple oils.
This is the first problem right here. Of course the Royal Purple rep is going to talk shit about other oils
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 Old 05-28-2012, 08:40 AM   #40
 
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Originally Posted by pzr2874 View Post
You're not getting what i'm saying.

Depending on how you drive and how long you wait between OCI's determines the fuel in the oil. It loses it's resistance to FD after XXX amount of miles. @Tokay444

Not to mention, every car is slightly different.
Thats why I did that analysis that I posted and will continue to do them at each oil change (~3500 miles).
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