Rotella T6 fact or fiction

[PureDrive]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Sorry. Busy at formula 1. No time to troll you.

Ok, ok, I'll be your friend, stop trying so hard........don't want you embarrassing yourself (just trying to look out for you big guy).

And I'll send you two cupcakes......because of your post......that you were too busy with other really important and impressive things to write.......yet you did......and here we are ...

[Tokay444]

Placebo.

[pzr2874]

Tokay, it's not a placebo effect. I've been using rotella for years now. Just not on this car because of that OCI I did on it. Same thing happened on my STi back in 08. When I first got it, the dealer had RP in there and when it drained it was still purple (still newish) a few days after I got it. I put the rotella in and it was night and day (rotella > RP).

[86AmishMs3]

All in your head. Your mind is a very powerful thing.

[pzr2874]

I agree but I'm an avid fan of Rotella. NOW if it were the other way around, I'd think it was in my head. Think I like paying more money for oil? Shiiiiiiiiiiiit no.

[IshiKage]

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx feeling if your car is faster? lol wut "unleash hp,..." wow... what you can feel is how smooth or rough your ride is after a thousand miles or so.. ive said it 15 times now.. after 1500 miles on Mobil 1 the motor felt a lil rough.. after 3000+ on Rotella or VR-1 the car felt like it had just got a fresh oil change. IMO that's the only real thing you will notice from one oil to the next...

my motor hated Mobil 1, that garbage

[mzr0818]

Originally Posted by IshiKage my motor hated Mobil 1, that garbage

Mine did the same I was changing mobil 1 every 5, and it smelled like straight up gas switched to 4k then 3k and still heavy fuel smell. Switched to pp ultra based on msf recommendations.... Faint smell at 5k now only...

[IshiKage]

get some Rotella T6 and it will improve that much more

[mzr0818]

Originally Posted by IshiKage get some Rotella T6 and it will improve that much more

I have debated doing summer T6 and winter pp ultra. It gets cold enough here I have reservations on that heavy of an oil year round...

[pzr2874]

You are missing the point. The 40 weight is at normal operating temp, nothing to do with cold weather.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 You are missing the point. The 40 weight is at normal operating temp, nothing to do with cold weather.

Why is it so hard for people to grasp this concept?! That is the reason oils have 2 different viscosity levels so you don't have to keep switching oils back and forth.

[IshiKage]

Originally Posted by mzr0818 I have debated doing summer T6 and winter pp ultra. It gets cold enough here I have reservations on that heavy of an oil year round...

thats what some are doing

[aggierandy]

Mine would have big thick burps of smoke on hard acceleration on everything except rotella. (Tried Mobile 1 and the dealership put Castrol in there once because they don't listen, so my own oil changes since)

[IshiKage]

First set of numbers with W is for cold weather. Second set is for hot.

here good read for those who are confused on what oil to run and what the numbers mean
Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

[mzr0818]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 You are missing the point. The 40 weight is at normal operating temp, nothing to do with cold weather.

Agreed, but 5w30 and 10w40 are two different weights at both cold and operating.

[pzr2874]

Originally Posted by aggierandy Mine would have big thick burps of smoke on hard acceleration on everything except rotella. (Tried Mobile 1 and the dealership put Castrol in there once because they don't listen, so my own oil changes since)

Check your PCV

[IshiKage]

Originally Posted by aggierandy Mine would have big thick burps of smoke on hard acceleration on everything except rotella. (Tried Mobile 1 and the dealership put Castrol in there once because they don't listen, so my own oil changes since)

thats normal. Puffs of black smoke at wot

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by mzr0818 Agreed, but 5w30 and 10w40 are two different weights at both cold and operating.

So?
Rotella is 5w40

[mzr0818]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 So? Rotella is 5w40

Did not know they made 5-40 excuse my ignorance. I thought it was10-40 and up.

[SpICeZ]

Originally Posted by mzr0818 Did not know they made 5-40 excuse my ignorance. I thought it was10-40 and up.

The T6 is 5W40, I think the T3 or another one is 10w40.

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by mzr0818 Did not know they made 5-40 excuse my ignorance. I thought it was10-40 and up.

Now you have no excuse not to run it. Now go stock up on $19.99 a gallon rotella and make your car happy.

[Tokay444]

It only comes in 5w40.

[pzr2874]

T1 Is 15-40 IIRC <--Diesel goop

[Tokay444]

But we're talking about t6

[pzr2874]

Just throwing it out there since someone stated 10-40, 5-40.... blahblahblah

Take a Midol

[CW42]

I had t6 in it when I bought mine and it seemed to run a hell of a lot better than when I put the dealer oil in it. Different oils definitely sound different even if you can't feel anything. The dealer oil makes my engine knock louder and idle rough. The t6 makes it so quiet I can barely tell it's running. I think once you've driven the same car for quite a while you can feel subtle differences. I remember one time when I had my Camaro I had the oil changed and I knew it was just a bit odd afterwards in the way it felt while driving. I drove it right back. They had put too much oil in it. It was just a slight differnces but once they corrected the problem I could feel the change.

[F1puertorico]

Lucas oil stabilizer should work fine. Never put higher viscosity oil than recommended by manufacturer. Oil passages are thiner and tolerances are tighter in newer hence the thin oils. Turn out worst in colder climate when u need the oil right now when you crank. Higher weight oils lube slower during those cases... In my personal choice a leave heavier oils for worn out engines.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by F1puertorico Lucas oil stabilizer should work fine. Never put higher viscosity oil than recommended by manufacturer. Oil passages are thiner and tolerances are tighter in newer hence the thin oils. Turn out worst in colder climate when u need the oil right now when you crank. Higher weight oils lube slower during those cases... In my personal choice a leave heavier oils for worn out engines. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

5w is the winter/cold viscosity. So the t6 still has the same viscosity as what the manufacturer recommends. However we run our cars harder and at a much higher hp level than stock. Power equals heat, heat coupled with fuel dillution lowers the viscosity, which is why t6 works so well in our cars. It's been a proven oil and has some of the best test results.

Sent from your couch

[cnoon]

Originally Posted by atvfreek However we run our cars harder and at a much higher hp level than stock. Power equals heat, heat coupled with fuel dillution lowers the viscosity, which is why t6 works so well in our cars. It's been a proven oil and has some of the best test results.

I purchased my MS6 this summer other than CAI it is stock and has 100k miles, so i'm not running at a much higher hp level than stock. I haven't noticed the smoking turbo. My car burns 1 qt. oil every ~3k miles. I want to join the Rotella circle jerk but not convinced it makes sense given my situation.

Should i run Rotella in a stock (aside from CAI) MS6 with 100k miles? Should I stay with 5w30?

[Vansquish]

Yes. You should. I've been running Rotella T6 in my car since around 50k miles, and I'm now at 109k. I've been modding along the way and *knock wood* I do not seem to burn a drop of oil between oil changes.

Edit: I realize that didn't really answer your question in retrospect. I would use T6 even if it wasn't special sauce for our engines. It's inexpensive, and seems to be good quality, as the UOAs have borne out, so I see no reason not to use it when the alternatives are either a) more expensive, b) not as good, or c) dino-oil.

[Kyle's MS3]

I'm coming up for an oil change soon, I was going to go with royal purple, but I hear that rotella t6 is better. The only question I have is, since it's a disel oil does that do any damage to our seals or gaskets?
And would they say anything about not covering warranty..?

[nilashish]

Originally Posted by Kyle's MS3 I'm coming up for an oil change soon, I was going to go with royal purple, but I hear that rotella t6 is better. The only question I have is, since it's a disel oil does that do any damage to our seals or gaskets? And would they say anything about not covering warranty..?

Dont use Rotella...It will blow your engine. I use olive oil only with great results.

[Yatta]

KY works best and its easy to clean up. Rotella T6 is rated also for gas engines, but some have been quite critical of its additive package, personally have been using it in Audis, VW’s and now my Mazda, for a ‘cheap’ oil its pretty hard to beat, unlike KY.

[macdiesel]

Just picked up rotella t6 today. The four gallon jugs had coupons good for $5 off per gallon mail in rebate. Expires 10/31/14.

[SpencerC]

Originally Posted by Kyle's MS3 I'm coming up for an oil change soon, I was going to go with royal purple, but I hear that rotella t6 is better. The only question I have is, since it's a disel oil does that do any damage to our seals or gaskets? And would they say anything about not covering warranty..?

Here is a helpful thread:
Rotella T6 fact or fiction

[SpICeZ]

The T6 additives are detergents and mainly zinc. Great for your engine not great for catalytic (if you have one). About warranty. They have no way if knowing what oil us in the care unless you tell them.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by gyoku2006@gmail.com ive been using rotella every since ive been driving, its great stuff. everyone looks at me weird when i recomend it but my dads 93 ranger has 293k miles on it and his 89 camry has 267K which have seen nothing but rotella. they have had nothing more than regular maintenance and both still run great.

To be fair, you'd be hard pressed not to find a good running Ranger. I don't care what I put in my Ranger, if it's on sale, it's going in. 97, 176k.

[Yatta]

and I will say this, I am changing it every 3000 miles; on my VR6 Golf I changed the oil every 10k and the filter every 5k; traded that car in (with good compression, no abnormal oil consumption, no leaks and original clutch) at 190k miles; I beat the shit out of that car every day from 1998 until 2012 when I bought my MS3, so people can say what they want about T6, until I personally see a reason to not use it, its in my all of my cars. The zinc is also added to help turbo bearings... as to knowing what oil you used, a warranty claim will result in them asking for proof of oil changes... they will find out if you used it or not, proving it made a difference, well, you might have to get a lawyer involved but it would be difficult to prove unless it was a claim on a catalyst.

[keychain12]

The bottom line is that many MANY people use T6 and have used it for quite some time with nothing but positive outcomes. Why even chance it with others?

[jeopardy98]

Da fuq? This forum is going soft. A brownie bumps a year old thread about oil and asks the very question that was answered in the thread that was bumped and no one tickles his anus?