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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just no. Repeat, just no. You will get really nasty boost spikes well above the 22.5 psi capability of your MAP sensor. I tried it, and fortunately was monitoring. I caught it right away before any damage. You will also see fuel rail pressure under load drop below 1600, down as low as in the 1400 psi range, with you injectors pulse width increasing the spray to try to maintain safe AFR. And, even with pump internals upgraded you will have those nasty spikes if you try to run a downpipe on stock tune. You need a compatible tune. The downpipe will raise boost under load to about 18 psi on a stock tune intended for 15 psi. The tune does not support boost that high. It is a recipe for disaster. I was lucky. It's also not a good choice for a first power mod. You need to ditch the stock highly restrictive airbox in favor of a good CAI or SRI intake, or the downpipe does little good. An engine is an air pump. Unless you in increase air flow on the intake side, a better flowing exhaust really doesn't do much. You can't push more out than you have coming in. Do as you please, but . . . you have been warned. Actually warned twice. I told you the same thing in another thread on January 3, 2012 - seven years ago. Yes, seven years ago. Are you trolling, or just an idiot? I'm being kind. I'm primarily replying to warn others not to try this.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. Last edited by MSMS3; 01-25-2019 at 06:22 PM. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I was thinking about when people had downpipes before the fuel pump internals were on the market. I wonder if they blew up their engines.
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to b4n30n3 For This Un-useful Post: | MSMS3 (01-26-2019) |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Does the cobb stage2 ots map get rid of the boost spike?
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| The Following User Says NO Thank You to b4n30n3 For This Un-useful Post: | Vansquish (01-26-2019) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I’m pretty sure that the Cobb ots2 map specifically says that you need an up graded HPFP. Actually I think the term they use is “cam driven fuel pump” same same though...just get the HPFP internals and be done with it. You are already spending money on the DP why not start with the HPFP if you know that it is a must?
__________________ 2013 Speed3 w/ tech Autotech HPFP Cobb APV3 ETS TMIC JBR 3.5in SRI UR catless DP Corksport TP Corksport Hoodscoop JBR RMM Stratified e30 tune Other Stuff: 1992 Jeep Cherokee 202,000 miles (salt/snow work horse) 2009 Toyota Rav 4 (wife has to drive something practical) 2012 Yamaha R1 Full Two Brothers exhaust & ECU flash |
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Look, we keep telling you not to do this. So, go ahead, go 3" catless dp on stock pump and tune. Then see what happens. It won't take long. You don't deserve to own your car, because you will not listen to reason or experience. Cobb's stage 2 OTS tune will only be half of the fix. YOU MUST ALSO UPGRADE THE PUMP INTERNALS to run a 3" catless dp.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I will get the fuel pump done then. But now another question can you start up the car and run it after upgrading the fuel pump internals on the stock tune? Like just to drive it out of the garage to the parking lot? Because if I take it to a mechanic to get the pump and exhaust done it won't have the ecu flashed.
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So, the upgraded pump works less hard on stock tune, but works fine. You can drive as long as you want. The extra capacity will be there to support your mods when added later. Do the pump first, even if you never upgrade the exhaust. You need it for the stage 2 tune, too. There are probably hundreds of threads here already suggesting that the pump internal upgrade be done first before any other power mods. Heck, the stock pump is marginal to begin with. Your stock pump may already be worn enough after all these years that it may not be maintaining the minimum safe pressure for stock tune.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I was running 100% stock and the rear motor mount wore out and the engine was flapping around and it broke the exhaust. So currently I am driving around with loud exhaust. I fixed the motor mount myself with a cp-e stage1 65 durometer mount. It barely vibrates more than stock and the wheel hop is reduced significantly. I didn't know if tuning was required for the fuel pump internals. I was assuming it was for no particular reason. That's good news that I can stick with the stock tune on the upgraded internals. That will make my life much easier. So I was looking at the installation videos on the internet and it looks pretty easy so I might try to install the internals myself. But the first thing that happened was I can't figure out how to get the pcv fitting off. The pcv has some kind of lock fitting on it I can't get off of there.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I guess it's called the breather tube not the pcv. It vents gas from the valve cover to the intake. On the valve cover side the fitting is green and on the intake side of the line the fitting is blue.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Go to corksport's website, look up their HPFP and go to the bottom of the page to their install instructions. It gives pointers on how to undo the breather among many other things.
__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica MS3 Tech For Powah: JBR Tru 3.5" WP, CP-E TMIC, UR V3 Catless DP/Reso. TP, CS Resonated CBE, CS HPFP Internals, Cobb AP, DM PMM, DM TMM, CS Stg 2 RMM, CS Shifter Bushings, CS Dual VTA BPV, South Bend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, Damond Motorsports SSP, CS 3.5bar MAP, Stratified S-OTS+ Stg 3 E85 tune for summer, Pump S-OTS+ Stage 3 for winter, for now Handling: JBR .250 RSB w/ billet brackets. So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver. |
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Go to 5:28 with the sound on. You have to spread those clips out and away. Try screwdriver in one hand, use your fingers with the other. It's not rocket science. I really think that you should be getting some help, and that you are total fail on trying to help yourself because you don't even try to search. You have to spread the blue clip and have to pull the yellow one away to the side. Just watch the video. My prediction is that you will get to the next step and get stuck again. You might also want to go to the beginning of this video and look at the tools needed. I'm now done. If anyone else wants to help, y'all have at it.
__________________ 2017 Audi Q5 3.0 T (supercharged) Stage 2+ EPL tune, JHM overdrive crank pulley, EPL supercharger pulley, ZF8 TCU tune, aFe/034 intake, modified air box. 480 hp. Sunlight Silver '08 MS3 GT Mods: (Sold 1/25/2019 after 10+ years of ownership) BNR Stage 1 (to fix smoking K04 turbo), TurboXS 3" Catless DP/RP "Stealthback" into stock CBE, Vibrant 3 inch Ultra Quiet Resonator in RP section, Magnaflow 3 1/2" exhaust tip, Mazdaspeed CAI w/air straightener and K&N conical filter, NGK 6510 Iridium IX one step colder plugs, Hypertech tune, Autotech HPFP internals, Stock BPV (works perfectly), Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R's (stock size on stock rims); Hawk HPS pads; SURE RMM; Grimmspeed EBCS (2 port mode), Bilstein B6's, SPC rear camber arms. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You are not a dick. Just very penis like. Some find that to be an attribute. #metoo
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am going through and reading this guy's threads... Holy fuck. Do you need a helmet when you walk outside? My god I have never seen such fucking stupidity in my entire time owning my 3. Please sell your car ASAP and stop fucking modding it. Jesus Christ ![]() .
__________________ 2011 MS3 Tech Package BNR S4v2 HTP 4" intake CS injector seals Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS Full Race FMIC CPe Triton catback exhaust ATP long catless DP E85 ![]() HYPNOTIC TUNED |
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