Stock turbo replacement Costs and Alternator question

[Dasleeper]

Hey guys,

Alright so heres the scoop, my turbo took a shit on me around 75,000 miles. Mazda laughed in my face when I asked if they would cover it with the 70,000 mile extended warranty. So I let it go for 20,000 miles but its so bad now my turbo is burning almost 2 quarts of oil every 4,000 miles. So I finally just said fuck it and I'm going to get bent over and pay the dealership to replace it with the revised stock. Now before anyone flames me I have no interest in any other upgrade turbos since i'm full time in college with no garage and no tools up here and I need my car daily.
Alright anyway the point of the thread is:
Quotes from dealer below, do they sound reasonable for stock turbo replacement:
Turbocharger part cost: $954 (all prices include taxes)
Oil Return lines, bolts, washers, oil, filter and etc. : 260.24
Labor: 661.44
Grand Total: 1875.44

Next question:
My car has been having trouble starting, it has been extremely cold though and there are days where its 10 degrees or colder here. Also I had a subwoofer system hooked up before, but I recently disconnected to take some stress off. I'm pretty sure its my alternator since my battery is pretty new, the oil shop I was at checked my battery and said it was good but that the charging system had problems.

So I ran some tests with my Cobb AP, I watched the battery voltage. When I started the car it was at 14.3. When I turned on my headlights, defrosters and radio it dropped to 13.3 and after about 2 seconds and jumped back up to 14.3. According to ALL Data information the car should be between 13 and 15. Should it take 2 seconds to jump back to 14.3, am I just crazy and nit picking?

Thanks fellas!

[faeker]

I'd suggest changing your avatar.

[Code Monkey]

Fuck it, at this price go at least BNR S1, it will not smoke.

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by faeker I'd suggest changing your avatar.

Haha Its Aqua Teen Hunger Force and I would suggest changing yours, its lame.

[himurax13]

OP, where do you live? I could slap on a low mileage non smokey turbo for you for $650 with absolutely no warranty but it should work out just fine.

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by Code Monkey Fuck it, at this price go at least BNR S1, it will not smoke.

To be honest I had called and talked to BNR but the BNR turbos scare me because if I pay to have a turbo put in and the BNR takes a shit on me I get bent over for $600 worth of labor again. If mazda puts there parts in and they install it they will guarantee it for a little while. And after reading through the manual how to install the turbo I realized how much a pain in the ass the install is. For example when going to install a downpipe my oxygen sensor stripped costing me an extra $200, this car is a PITA. Especially compared to my old talon where the turbo was up front and took less than 2 hours to install a new one in.

Originally Posted by himurax13 OP, where do you live? I could slap on a low mileage non smokey turbo for you for $650 with absolutely no warranty but it should work out just fine.

Haha to be honest I would entertain that if I wasnt so damn far from you, I'm in state college, PA at Penn State main campus

[Dasleeper]

Also I should add that all the tips to fix the smoking turbo seals are temporary band aids that dont work to anyone going to travel down that path. Currently I'm running every so called fix:
- Raised idle to 950 with Cobb AP
- Bnoon Bolt
- Rotella T6 5w-40 oil
- Replaced PCV valve

[skiptowncat]

So you're gonna fork out nearly two grand for a turbo that may take a shit again in few thousand miles....carry on.

[helmetface]

GT30r frame turbo
Ebay OCC

~$2000

=winning

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by skiptowncat So you're gonna fork out nearly two grand for a turbo that may take a shit again in few thousand miles....carry on.

Well considering the new turbo is revised I don't see that happening, I would argue that a brand new turbo through mazda has much better quality assurance than a BNR turbo that is made in a garage by a single person from an old turbo that he got as core return.

[faeker]

So the scores of people who run the bnr s3 wasted their money? People are giving you a legitimate suggestion with the bnr turbo. Don't be a cock bag by questioning bryans quality control.

I know what the avatar is from but it doesn't mean its OK to flash a swastika.

tappy-tap-tappytalk

[DuoofDeath1]

You're in state college? What year and color are your car? I would say get somebody on here that knows what they are doing to replace yours with another stock one. Alot of people go big turbo while their stock one is still fine. I just don't see the point in spending that much for the exact same thing.

[Yatta]

1. Donate,
2. for the money you are willing to spend, get a real turbo (S1 would be fine) or a deal turbo from someone in MSF.
3. con someone in your local area (nator? ) to help you on an install day? beer is cheaper than dealership labor..... watch the install and learn from it, next time it won't seem so bad... You might as well do internals while your at it (and spending cash) as you will have everything off.

[rymanmazda]

Originally Posted by Dasleeper Well considering the new turbo is revised I don't see that happening, I would argue that a brand new turbo through mazda has much better quality assurance than a BNR turbo that is made in a garage by a single person from an old turbo that he got as core return.

All revised means is that it's still the same turbo that took a shit on you that has been "looked at."

[Danish]

Originally Posted by Dasleeper Well considering the new turbo is revised I don't see that happening, I would argue that a brand new turbo through mazda has much better quality assurance than a BNR turbo that is made in a garage by a single person from an old turbo that he got as core return.

Ehhhhh no! These "revised" turbos still have documented failures left and right.

Why the fuck would you pay a dealership to bend you over? Go get yourself a BNR and slap that shit on there.

[magicka]

I don't think I've seen a BNR failure yet. If you want to stick with stock, rebuilt K04 s go for around $300 in the sale section. With donate and beer mods, you're fixed up for <$600.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Forum Runner

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Dasleeper To be honest I had called and talked to BNR but the BNR turbos scare me because if I pay to have a turbo put in and the BNR takes a shit on me I get bent over for $600 worth of labor again. If mazda puts there parts in and they install it they will guarantee it for a little while. And after reading through the manual how to install the turbo I realized how much a pain in the ass the install is. For example when going to install a downpipe my oxygen sensor stripped costing me an extra $200, this car is a PITA. Especially compared to my old talon where the turbo was up front and took less than 2 hours to install a new one in. Haha to be honest I would entertain that if I wasnt so damn far from you, I'm in state college, PA at Penn State main campus

Well at least you understand how much of a PIA it is to simply install another Turbo.

Removing the heatshields, the 02 Sensors, the exhaust manifold, and the Downpipe and midpipe can end up being a huge PIA and I personally like installing new studs, new locking nuts, new exhaust gaskets, new banjo bolt crush washers to prevent any future exhaust leaks (the $650 I quoted would cover all of that plus my time.)

A BNR Stage 1 Turbo would be a direct drop in, has a warranty for 1 year, and should be a longer lasting solution than any stock turbo new or used.

A BNR Stage 3 Turbo is an excellent value but I would not bother getting one unless you have an AP and you are basically fully bolted. Even then I would also get a 3 Bar Map Sensor and plug and play harness, Electronic Boost Controller, 1 foot of SS Braided 6 AN line without fittings, and a tune from a reputable E-Tuner here on MSF.

[CamSpeed360]

Originally Posted by Dasleeper Well considering the new turbo is revised I don't see that happening, I would argue that a brand new turbo through mazda has much better quality assurance than a BNR turbo that is made in a garage by a single person from an old turbo that he got as core return.

uploadfromtaptalk1360007970689.jpg

[trf5000]

I would just buy the replacement turbo if that is what you want to do and install it yourself.

Its really not that bad.

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by faeker So the scores of people who run the bnr s3 wasted their money? People are giving you a legitimate suggestion with the bnr turbo. Don't be a cock bag by questioning bryans quality control. I know what the avatar is from but it doesn't mean its OK to flash a swastika. tappy-tap-tappytalk

No it makes sense to get a BNR stage 3, but people had suggested a stage 1 which is essentially the same output as stock. And before you comment on a thread read it, one of the first things I said is that I had no interest in any other turbo. So far you have contributed nothing useful, I asked questions. I dont care about what you have to say, if your not answering my questions go hijack another thread.

As for my avatar its a carton picture of a balloon riding in a balloon vehicle from ATHF. I honestly did not take it as offensive one bit, but I gladly changed it to another aqua teen hunger force picture. So for that i'm sorry.

Originally Posted by DuoofDeath1 You're in state college? What year and color are your car? I would say get somebody on here that knows what they are doing to replace yours with another stock one. Alot of people go big turbo while their stock one is still fine. I just don't see the point in spending that much for the exact same thing.

Yup, 2006 and silver, stop by the PSU car club meets sometime! I have no garage and no tools since i live on campus.

Originally Posted by trf5000 I would just buy the replacement turbo if that is what you want to do and install it yourself. Its really not that bad.

No garage or tools since i'm at college, add in 15 degree weather to that equation

Originally Posted by DuoofDeath1 You're in state college? What year and color are your car? I would say get somebody on here that knows what they are doing to replace yours with another stock one. Alot of people go big turbo while their stock one is still fine. I just don't see the point in spending that much for the exact same thing.

I've def seen your car around the area before too, its nasty looking.

[faeker]

Meatwad ftw.

I do what I want

if you're going to spend almost 2k, get a bnr and get some help installing it. better value for your buck. if weather is an issue, rent a storage unit or buddy up with someone who has a decent sized garage. there's no reason to pay that much for a stocker. shit, get a bnrs1 if you dont want to drop the cash on the s3. still better than stock.

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by faeker Meatwad ftw. I do what I want if you're going to spend almost 2k, get a bnr and get some help installing it. better value for your buck. if weather is an issue, rent a storage unit or buddy up with someone who has a decent sized garage. there's no reason to pay that much for a stocker. shit, get a bnrs1 if you dont want to drop the cash on the s3. still better than stock.

Haha if your ever in the state college area stop by a wednesday night car meet.

Any advice on my alternator question?

[himurax13]

Well if the OP goes with the BNR Stage 3, I highly suggest that Fuel Pump Internals and a downpipe/2nd cate delete be installed beforehand.

[faeker]

Dips happen but it shouldn't be as long as 2 seconds. If you end up having to recharge the battery a few times after running the car then I'd say that alternator is dying. You can try disconnecting the battery after starting the car but I personally avoid that test just in case the alternator spikes.

tappy-tap-tappytalk

[Dasleeper]

Originally Posted by faeker Dips happen but it shouldn't be as long as 2 seconds. If you end up having to recharge the battery a few times after running the car then I'd say that alternator is dying. You can try disconnecting the battery after starting the car but I personally avoid that test just in case the alternator spikes. tappy-tap-tappytalk

Hmm yeah thats what I was thinking I felt as though it should be almost instantaneous. The damn alternator alone is like $400, lifes a bitch haha. In one year I got fucked with timing chain, turbo, and alternator. Mazda FTW

[Yatta]

As to your Alternator question, if your mechanic told you the battery was good and you had issues with your charging system, why ask here? Its either crappy corroded cables or diodes/bearings in the alternator and $400 sounds high, if your going to have someone do the work anyhow you might find a shop that rebuilds them, have them check the cabling and if nothing wrong there, rebuild your alternator, 3 bolts hold it on the motor, the heat shield is a PITA though. I would not test it by removing the battery cable (as was stated) given what you have described holding the business end of a battery on a running vehicle isn't a good idea, if the alternator is marginal this can finish the job and/or cause other electrical failures.


My earlier suggestions weren't thread jacking, if you want to hand 2k+ to a dealership that will essentially place another (revised? I think they restricted the oil flow to the bearing, not sure that is an improvement) k04 in, go for it......the BNR offers the S1 and S3, the S2 was dropped, why not drop the S1? because its a much better OEM alternative...

good luck.

[86AmishMs3]

Here are the cheapest options since you're a student.

1. Buy k04 here. Cost: $25 dollar VIP, non-smokey used turbo- $200, Basic set of tools - $100. Total - 325 dollars and 3-5 hours of your time. Or there's a couple people who rebuild the turbo.

2. Buy a used/new ATP bolt on Garrett turbo as well as oil lines and other supporting mods - 1500-2500. Plus 6-10 hours worth of work and searching.

3. Buy a BNR S1-3. 1000-1500. S1 would be the cheapest and easiest route with a 1yr warranty.

4. Get raped and have the same turbo that is prone to failure.


I suggest if you're on extreme budget do the first. If not do 3. If you want the fastz go with an S3 or GT30xx and supporting mods.