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 Old 10-14-2016, 06:20 AM   #1
 
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Default Long Crank, no CEL

Hi all,
2010 Cx7 2.3T, 83k on the motor. Oil changed every 5k with Mobil 1.

Engine sounds fine once running, but has developed a long crank. Almost always get a long crank 1st thing in the morning (temps dropping into the 30s and 40s) and often other times throughout the day. Can get it with a hot engine, cold engine. Seems slightly more frequent after sitting, but have experienced it in quick restarts (<10 min).

Changed out the plugs - no change in long crank.

Checked for CEL - none.

I don't want to throw parts at it, but my first thoughts are CPS or fuel pump.

Any ideas of where to start? Why I can't get a CEL?

Thanks!



Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================

Vehicle VIN: JM3ER4WL5A0305XXX
Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda
Vehicle Calibration ID: L3B

Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$80
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 0.99999Ratio Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 0.99999Ratio Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$82
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 0.99999Ratio Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0.20703Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$83
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 0.99999Ratio Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0.28515Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 100ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 25ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$80
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$21 TID:$80
- Catalyst Monitor Bank 1
Max: 255.99281Ratio Min: 1.56248Ratio
Test result value: 17.99977Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$31 TID:$83
- EGR Monitor Bank 1
Max: 655.34998kPa Min: 5kPa
Test result value: 15.65kPa
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$80
-
Max: 10° Min: -327.67999°
Test result value: 1.87°
PASS
----
MID:$35 TID:$81
-
Max: 327.66998° Min: -17°
Test result value: 0.93°
PASS
----
MID:$3a TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (cap off)
Max: 8,191.75Pa Min: -1,942.75Pa
Test result value: -1,942.75Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3a TID:$81
- EVAP Monitor (cap off)
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3a TID:$82
- EVAP Monitor (cap off)
Max: -1,942.75Pa Min: -8,192Pa
Test result value: -1,942.75Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3b TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Max: 910Pa Min: -8,192Pa
Test result value: 369.25Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3c TID:$81
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Max: 8,191.75Pa Min: 30.25Pa
Test result value: 61.25Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3c TID:$82
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3c TID:$83
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Max: 0.5 Min: 0
Test result value: 0
PASS
----
MID:$3d TID:$80
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Max: 8,191.75Pa/s Min: -1,000Pa/s
Test result value: -546.25Pa/s
PASS
----
MID:$3d TID:$81
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$41 TID:$80
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 30Ohm Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 5Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$80
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Max: 51Ohm Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 21Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----

End of report.
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 Old 10-14-2016, 07:15 AM   #2
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check plug gap.
Aim for .024"
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 Old 10-14-2016, 07:38 AM   #3
 
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also, check your battery, I noticed mine was taking longer to start in the AM when it got colder, once running and warm no issues. I replaced the battery (it was original from 2012) and it jumps to life in the morning now.
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 Old 10-14-2016, 07:53 AM   #4
 
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^^ THIS
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 Old 10-14-2016, 11:28 AM   #5
 
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Thanks all - I gapped the plugs when I installed them a month or so ago and the battery is <1 year old. Lots of juice there. Any other ideas?
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 Old 10-14-2016, 11:31 AM   #6
 
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Just because the battery is not old it doesnt mean its not good. Test it with a volt meter during crank. Battery issues can cause all kinds of problems. It has to be eliminated as a possibility completely not just its only 1 years old. When trying to solve an issue you have to be very open minded and do alot of testing. Assuming is the worst. Leads nowhere

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 Old 10-14-2016, 11:33 AM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Vitamin M View Post
Just because the battery is not old it doesnt mean its not good. Test it with a volt meter during crank. Battery issues can cause all kinds of problems. It has to be eliminated as a possibility completely not just its only 1 years old. When trying to solve an issue you have to be very open minded and do alot of testing. Assuming is the worst. Leads nowhere

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Suggestion? Throw a multi meter on it and note the voltage drop at crank?
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 Old 10-14-2016, 11:38 AM   #8
 
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It should not drop below 9 during crank.

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Then next thing i would do is plug obd and check fuel pressure after the car starts.

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 Old 10-14-2016, 12:31 PM   #9
 
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Sounds to me like fuel or timing to me. If you battery was weak or too weak to start it then it will also be too weak to turn the motor as well and you will get a slow crank that will progressively get slower the more you crank it. plug he says it starts so it must be staying at or above 12v. Also if you crank sensor is bad then that can cause long cranks because it might not be sparking the plugs to ignite the fuel.

It also looks like your having a problem with your 02 sensor? most likely your wideband. This shouldnt cause your car to not start but it can cause it to run crappy once started due to bad it sending a bad signal back tot he ECU about the AFRs..
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 Old 10-16-2016, 05:58 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by qtrmile beast View Post
Sounds to me like fuel or timing to me. If you battery was weak or too weak to start it then it will also be too weak to turn the motor as well and you will get a slow crank that will progressively get slower the more you crank it. plug he says it starts so it must be staying at or above 12v. Also if you crank sensor is bad then that can cause long cranks because it might not be sparking the plugs to ignite the fuel.

It also looks like your having a problem with your 02 sensor? most likely your wideband. This shouldnt cause your car to not start but it can cause it to run crappy once started due to bad it sending a bad signal back tot he ECU about the AFRs..
I'd agree - I'll check the battery, but its cranking it very quickly. I'm betting a faulty CPS myself, but I would think the CPS would set a CEL. Maybe it would only set off the CEL after its been running and not during the crank cycle?
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 Old 10-16-2016, 08:11 PM   #11
 
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Feel free to also do a compression test since I doubt you've ever cleaned your intake valves and or EGR valve and tube maintenance which is a must on these high mileage DISI L3K9 engines and could have filthy ass intake valves that lead to detonation if you ever get on it aggressively with that puddled into the intake ports.
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 Old 10-29-2017, 05:46 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by impossible View Post
Feel free to also do a compression test since I doubt you've ever cleaned your intake valves and or EGR valve and tube maintenance which is a must on these high mileage DISI L3K9 engines and could have filthy ass intake valves that lead to detonation if you ever get on it aggressively with that puddled into the intake ports.
Is there a good how-to on cleaning the egr? Thanks!

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