Piping for TR1035

[achulz]

I have a TR10 arriving tomorrow, and I still need the piping. This has been my thought process so far:

1. Buy all of the silicone couplers needed, as well as T-Bolt clamps, and 304 stainless steel exhaust pipe.
2. Pie cut the exhaust pipe to make the necessary bends and TIG weld.
3. Get a BPV flange CNC cut and use 1.5" stainless exhaust pipe to mount and space the flange away from the main piping.
4. Profit...?

Overall the cost would be around $330, minus the my time for making several precise cuts and welding everything (the price does not include the cost of welding gas, filler rod, etc.)

The reason I wanted to do that is one it would look a lot nicer, and two I could get the fit I want since I'm using such a large core.

My other option is to buy a CXRacing piping kit or similar, but I know I would need to purchase some additional couplers for the larger inlet/outlet on the TR10.

I could go this route, but I'm not sure it would work or what couplers I would need. Is it just straight into the intercooler with the piping or does it use 90 degree silicone couplers? Anyone else used a TR10 with an OTS piping kit?

Side note don't worry about the crash bar, I am fabbing my own crash bar in this instance.

[5doorsoffury]

I would just get the cx kit. I went with jbr hot side for the underroute pipes since i was doing a st mani otherwise i would of got the cx kit. Custom is a pita since you need to get bead rolls done on the cut pipe. Get the cx raceing amd order a silicone elbow for fitment if it doesn't fit. It may fit with nothing extra other then a adapter

[Thor Hammer]

If I was going with a Treadstone intercooler I would have just sprung for their entire kit. It fits incredibly better than the CX kit and comes with a crashbar to mount it.

Another option is contact Speed Solutions. Great guys. I know they are on Facebook but not sure if they have a regular website yet. They make piping kits for MS3 and MS6 as well.

[Solarsurge]

If you can weld, you might want to just skip the pain in the ass silicone couplers anywhere you don't need a little flex. Nearly all off the shelf kits have too many connections and have nearly a 100% chance of leaking somewhere or another. Tracking down boost leaks is a pain in the balls. I would also clock the turbo and go under routed hot pipe for sure. Hindsight is 20/20 and I wish I did at first. Something as simple as changing spark plugs could require you to remove a rather annoying section of pipe repeatedly.

[achulz]

Originally Posted by Solarsurge If you can weld, you might want to just skip the pain in the ass silicone couplers anywhere you don't need a little flex. Nearly all off the shelf kits have too many connections and have nearly a 100% chance of leaking somewhere or another. Tracking down boost leaks is a pain in the balls. I would also clock the turbo and go under routed hot pipe for sure. Hindsight is 20/20 and I wish I did at first. Something as simple as changing spark plugs could require you to remove a rather annoying section of pipe repeatedly.

My plan was to have it in four sections, just to make everything easy to take apart. Two sections for the hot side, two for the cold side. That way I don't have to fish it through the front end, I can just disconnect the couplers and pull out whatever I need. In total there will be 6 couplers (two on the IC, one on the TB, one on the turbski, and two more connecting the sections). I also planned to route it kind of around the engine down the side instead of right the fuck over the valve cover like every other kit.

[shaneski]

You can get just the piping kit from a COBB set up, while expensive but you get what you pay for, The bead rolls are excellent. It's a 2 piece hot side and 1 piece cold side. Fitted easy on my TR8.