Soaptray's GTX3076R BT Build

[soaptray]

On my way to work this morning, I was getting off the highway and noticed clouds of white smoke. I thought to myself... some idiot driving a beater needs to go away cause they stink... and then I realized it was my car puffing out the plume.

Needless to say, I believe the seals on my K04 are finally toast. 90,000KM.

I have already purchased a few parts for the build, and will be purchasing a few more to round it off. I have read a bunch of the threads on here, and tried to compile this list using the groups knowledge. Please let me know if anything appears to be missing or if you have better suggestions based on my build.

New Parts for Build:
- GTX3076R with Mazda Flange + V-Band EWG (Purchased)
- XSPower Exhaust Manifold (Purchased)
- TiAL 38MM MV-S Wastegate
- ATP Dumptube
- JBR Small Battery Box (Make room for larger intake)
- JBR 3.5" Aluminum Intake with 4" Coupler for BT
- JBR 3-Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
- Kozmic Oil Feed and Return Lines
- ATP Turbo Studs and Nuts (In case)
- Manifold to Turbo Gasket
- Turbo to DP Gasket
- Return Oil Line Gaskets
- Guardian Angel v3 (With 4BAR Sensor)


Considering:
- Injector Seals
- Meth

Goals are in the range of 375 to 400 HP range.

Hoping to order the rest in the next few days - look forward to hearing any suggestions or something I may have overlooked.

Will post pics along the way! Thanks!

10/24/17 UPDATE: Updated part list.

[VoodooJef]

That is WAY more turbo than you need for your HP goals. It`s a remarkable turbo, just intended for a heavier weight class (so to speak). If you`re on stock block I can give youa timeline of how the next few months will go:

Bolt on turbo and supporting mods.
Love the way it turns out, add methanol.
Turn up the tune a little more.
Realize the turbo is only giving 60% of its potential, turn up the tune a little more.
Connecting rod taps out. If you`re lucky it does not ventilate the block.
Spend many thousands of dollars on built motor and a beefier clutch because anything less would be foolish.

It`s a great setup capable of over 500whp with enough fuel. Keep that in mind.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by VoodooJef That is WAY more turbo than you need for your HP goals. It`s a remarkable turbo, just intended for a heavier weight class (so to speak). If you`re on stock block I can give youa timeline of how the next few months will go: Bolt on turbo and supporting mods. Love the way it turns out, add methanol. Turn up the tune a little more. Realize the turbo is only giving 60% of its potential, turn up the tune a little more. Connecting rod taps out. If you`re lucky it does not ventilate the block. Spend many thousands of dollars on built motor and a beefier clutch because anything less would be foolish. It`s a great setup capable of over 500whp with enough fuel. Keep that in mind.

The 3076 is very laggy on stock block. Horrible in traffic, great for the highway.

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[soaptray]

Thanks for the notes. I am worried I am going to want more once this thing goes in.

I got a really good deal on the turbo and the manifold a few years ago, but it has been sitting in my garage since. My initial intention was to sell it and not install, but since my K04 is done, this is where I am at. I don't think I am doing the MS3 community any good by looking to put another K04 in here.

As long as I can get a safe, reliable tune in here on the stock block I will be good (for a few months as you mention).

The shaft has no play, and I can see the blades were recently balanced. Turbo has about 20,000 KM on it.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by soaptray Goals are in the range of 375 to 400 HP range.

With meth and this power figure as a goal I'd go GTX3071 for significantly better response.
With the mods in the signature my car is close to 450 (or exceeds that when it's cold).
The bottleneck in my case seem to be the manifolds and I can't tell which one, possibly if I upgrade the IM I'll find out that 10whp later the OEM EM and the IWG + mazda flanged turbo is the new bottleneck (31PSI is kind of the limit of what I can get). And 400bhp is kind of the sweet spot for this FWD chassis.

With the 3076 you get boost pretty late after stomping on the throttle and pretty late in the RPM range. That paired with the factory pistons which don't like revving too high because of the heat (even if you address that with meth) you're left with like 2500-3000rpm to work with at the end of the rev range.

[BuddySpeed3]

Looking forward to the finished product! Have you decided on who will tune the car?

[soaptray]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Looking forward to the finished product! Have you decided on who will tune the car?

Not yet - there is a local shop in Milton (JapaneseAutomotive) that I have been chatting with who may help. Also might go eTune.

Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by mituc With meth and this power figure as a goal I'd go GTX3071 for significantly better response. With the mods in the signature my car is close to 450 (or exceeds that when it's cold). The bottleneck in my case seem to be the manifolds and I can't tell which one, possibly if I upgrade the IM I'll find out that 10whp later the OEM EM and the IWG + mazda flanged turbo is the new bottleneck (31PSI is kind of the limit of what I can get). And 400bhp is kind of the sweet spot for this FWD chassis. With the 3076 you get boost pretty late after stomping on the throttle and pretty late in the RPM range. That paired with the factory pistons which don't like revving too high because of the heat (even if you address that with meth) you're left with like 2500-3000rpm to work with at the end of the rev range.

Thanks for the insight. I do agree with you that this turbo isnt the perfect fit for what I am trying to do. Also have to keep in mind that my K04 smoking has forced me into a quick upgrade, as this is my daily driver. I wasn't originally planning on doing the BT upgrade this year... My other option would be to source a smaller turbo and sell the one I have, but I don't want to go through that hassle right now haha.

Can always change things up in the summer if I hate the RPM lag.

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by soaptray Not yet - there is a local shop in Milton (JapaneseAutomotive) that I have been chatting with who may help. Also might go eTune. Any suggestions?

I'd say go with an E-tune from a tuner on this forum. They have the most experience with these cars and engines.

[VoodooJef]

Originally Posted by soaptray Can always change things up in the summer if I hate the RPM lag.

You will. But you will assuredly trade your disappointment for another s**t eating grin with the way it just seems to want to keep pulling forever to redline. The 3076 is enough turbo that it will never run out of pull at 400hp.

[soaptray]

And the smoking heap of junk has arrived back at the garage - ready to start tearing the engine apart to get at that tiny little K04. Parts are going to be ordered today or tomorrow... bracing to get screwed by customs import and duties.

With the Kosmic oil lines, do I need to buy gaskets? Can't seem to find them anywhere.

[soaptray]

Order placed from @EdgeAutoSport - now comes the waiting game.

Regarding the E-Tune, recommendations? Stratified / Freek? It's been a while since I followed these guys.

Thanks!

[VoodooJef]

Honestly man, they're all good at it. The guys at stratified pretty much pioneered the first waves of bigger hp tunes, Freektune is turning out some of the fastest cars in the game, several friends have had great experience with PD, and Rob has definitely done good work with Hypnotic. All of them maintain different levels of association with their clients, so that may be a factor for you as well. If you have access to a dyno there is also the option of getting your tune done in one sitting on it. All things to consider.

[soaptray]

So, my parts are in from Edge, ordered a tune from Freek to grab the base map, and I am preparing to do this big turbo install this weekend.

At work, I saw a post on my Facebook about blown cylinder gaskets on Ford Focus RS models producing white smoke that look eerily similar to my car. When I got home today, I checked my coolant, and lo and behold it was below the "MIN" line... so I suspect there may be a problem with my head gasket or potentially a cracked cylinder head.

I don't know why I immediately zeroed in on a blown turbo seal - I guess I had that in my mind for so long that it would happen at some point that I didn't consider other possibilities.

What are my next steps to confirming if its the gasket or the cylinder without taking the whole top end off? (7-9 hour job from what I am reading).

I checked my oil cap, no milky residue.
Oil was a bit low, and quite gunky as I am due for an oil change.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

[Fstrnyou]

Do a leak down test with the radiator cap removed. See what happens.

[soaptray]

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou Do a leak down test with the radiator cap removed. See what happens.

Will grab these testers tomorrow and try it out. Leak down and compression.

Thanks!

[5doorsoffury]

OK SO... First and foremost is listen to what everyone has said so far.
Second answer to meth is yes yes yes yes. Only e85 is better them meth IMHO.

Its a dog until 4k then the smiles start! The mazda flange sucks unless your stock block..... That brings me to my next point..

Build the block...

Build it.

I beat the ever living shit out of my car and all it does is say sorry ill do better next time.... and it does!

I mean wtf if that wont do it i don't know what will...

[mituc]

Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury Second answer to meth is yes yes yes yes. Only e85 is better them meth IMHO.

No it's not. Meth offers the same knock protection plus:

• cooling of the boosted charge
• cooling of the cylinders during the exhaust stroke

E85 (or in-tank meth) will provide the same knock protection and will allow for pretty much the same timing advance but without the two mentioned above benefits.

The only downside of the meth compared to E is that you need to fill and keep an eye on the level of another reservoir.
However, filling the meth tank with just distilled water if you cant find meth or isopropyl alcohol is a lot easier and will allow for pretty much the same boost and still a bit more aggressive timing than with just straight pump gas compared to the situation when you can't find E and you have to run a shitty tune for whatever crappy gas you need to fill with.

If you can do both meth and ethanol mix then do both, but add meth anyway even if you spray just distilled water.

[Djohns]

How has no one noticed that he has the xs power mani which has a Mazda flange but his 3076 looks like it’s rocking a Vband. And btw, stratified sucks. He used to be a solid tuner but he kinda gave up on the speed platform to focus on the ST.

EDIT: nevermind I see what I was looking at now, that would be an EWG turbo, that’ll be interesting since you have an ewg mani.

[soaptray]

I am in the Toronto Area - haven't really found a source for E85, so it looks like meth will be in the near future. I do have Petro 94 Octane nearby which is not the worst gas in the world.

Here are some pics of the goodies going on... also, the coolant level. I have a compression test and leak down test kit arriving tomorrow... will do those tests first to see where I stand.

[5doorsoffury]

Originally Posted by mituc No it's not. Meth offers the same knock protection plus: cooling of the boosted charge cooling of the cylinders during the exhaust stroke E85 (or in-tank meth) will provide the same knock protection and will allow for pretty much the same timing advance but without the two mentioned above benefits. The only downside of the meth compared to E is that you need to fill and keep an eye on the level of another reservoir. However, filling the meth tank with just distilled water if you cant find meth or isopropyl alcohol is a lot easier and will allow for pretty much the same boost and still a bit more aggressive timing than with just straight pump gas compared to the situation when you can't find E and you have to run a shitty tune for whatever crappy gas you need to fill with. If you can do both meth and ethanol mix then do both, but add meth anyway even if you spray just distilled water.

I like e85 because,

I dont have to worry about a meth pump failure. I dont have to worry about my nozzle clogging. I dont have to worry about the quality of my install failing. I dont have to worry about RUNNING OUT MID RUN. I dont have to worry about hydro locking my engine. I get the benefits of the latent heat of vaporization that ethonol provides during cruising to prevent LSPI. If i cant get e85 i switch tunes. Sorry but i would run corn over spraying meth but then again its just My Honest Opinion.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by 5doorsoffury I like e85 because, I dont have to worry about a meth pump failure. I dont have to worry about my nozzle clogging. I dont have to worry about the quality of my install failing. I dont have to worry about RUNNING OUT MID RUN. I dont have to worry about hydro locking my engine. I get the benefits of the latent heat of vaporization that ethonol provides during cruising to prevent LSPI. If i cant get e85 i switch tunes. Sorry but i would run corn over spraying meth but then again its just My Honest Opinion.

With the failsave mechanisms these days you will know when the pump will fail or the nozzle will clog or when you will run out of juice.
LSPI is common in engines that have a lot of deposits which are addressed by meth when you spray. So you need to drive a few tens thousandth miles without triggering the meth to get those deposits. Yet you can still get LSPI with low/mid ethanol mixes, especially if you run not aggressive enough timing to burn everything off.

Speaking about deposits... ethanol mixes will not address the intake valve clogging.

Also, with meth you don't have to worry about HPFP failure which occasionally happens when using high concentrations of ethanol (>50%).
Past some power levels you need to go PI with ethanol, that can be postponed probably 100-150 horsepower later with meth.

So there are a lot of pros and cons for each approach, but overall I still think meth is better, easier to use and is available everywhere and you don't have to worry about not finding it when travelling cross country.

[5doorsoffury]

Originally Posted by mituc With the failsave mechanisms these days you will know when the pump will fail or the nozzle will clog or when you will run out of juice. LSPI is common in engines that have a lot of deposits which are addressed by meth when you spray. So you need to drive a few tens thousandth miles without triggering the meth to get those deposits. Yet you can still get LSPI with low/mid ethanol mixes, especially if you run not aggressive enough timing to burn everything off. Speaking about deposits... ethanol mixes will not address the intake valve clogging. Also, with meth you don't have to worry about HPFP failure which occasionally happens when using high concentrations of ethanol (>50%). Past some power levels you need to go PI with ethanol, that can be postponed probably 100-150 horsepower later with meth. So there are a lot of pros and cons for each approach, but overall I still think meth is better, easier to use and is available everywhere and you don't have to worry about not finding it when travelling cross country.

I put the nozzle in the tank and i drive away. Thats easy to me. I understand why you like meth but i dont agree with you. I am biased since my boost switch stuck on after a pull and meth was pouring in to the motor. Luckely i wired a relay to a kill switch in the cabin. A failsafe would not of helped me in a controler/switch failure since it would be part of what failed.

Sorry to muddle up the build thread with meth/e85 banter.

[gotovato]

any build update? curious to see how another locals big turbo build turns out!

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by gotovato any build update? curious to see how another locals big turbo build turns out!

Same here! How much power you making on that 3071r? You on stock bottom end no issues?

[gotovato]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Same here! How much power you making on that 3071r? You on stock bottom end no issues?

I'm on the stock bottom end still yea. Car made 310whp and 350wtorque at 18psi. My ACT street clutch was slipping real bad on the dyno so that's where my tune ended last spring. Over the summer I upgraded to a act 6 puck. I'm still on the factory cat back which I know is killing my top end. This spring when the car comes out to play I'll be going with a full 3" from my downpipe, and a retune from a different tuner in the area. Cars being setup for CSCS so the new tune will be pretty laid back as I'm aiming more for safety but with the new clutch, better tune, and proper exhaust I should pick up some more HP without a problem I hope!

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by gotovato I'm on the stock bottom end still yea. Car made 310whp and 350wtorque at 18psi. My ACT street clutch was slipping real bad on the dyno so that's where my tune ended last spring. Over the summer I upgraded to a act 6 puck. I'm still on the factory cat back which I know is killing my top end. This spring when the car comes out to play I'll be going with a full 3" from my downpipe, and a retune from a different tuner in the area. Cars being setup for CSCS so the new tune will be pretty laid back as I'm aiming more for safety but with the new clutch, better tune, and proper exhaust I should pick up some more HP without a problem I hope!

Did you get tuned at APH? Are you getting boost creep with the 3071r in cold temps?

[BuddySpeed3]

Originally Posted by soaptray I am in the Toronto Area - haven't really found a source for E85, so it looks like meth will be in the near future. I do have Petro 94 Octane nearby which is not the worst gas in the world.

In tank methanol is a pretty good alternative, but most wouldn't recommend anything more than 2 gallons due to it's corrosive properties. It also eats up a tonne of injector headroom. Did someone say 6th port?

[gotovato]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Did you get tuned at APH? Are you getting boost creep with the 3071r in cold temps?

I was tuned at Neetronics. Did a decent job I feel but I'm going with someone else this year. No boost creep issues yet but the car was parked for the winter so it never saw much below 0.

[BuddySpeed3]

Not to bash local tuners but have you considered an etune? All the tuners on this forum are pushing big power and know the platform the best.

[Fstrnyou]

Hey! I'm a local tuner...to myself. No matter where I am, I am always local to me.

[gotovato]

Originally Posted by BuddySpeed3 Not to bash local tuners but have you considered an etune? All the tuners on this forum are pushing big power and know the platform the best.

I've thought about etuning for sure but something about a controlled dyno tune helps me feel better about what's going on. Another thing I've noticed, in general maybe not specific to the etuners on this platform but most seem only to tune for wot and Max power. I'm not aiming for max power but more max reliability with good power. The tuner I'm going with tunes a lot of road course cars which means a lot of time is spent tuning part throttle, and on a dynapack hub dyno, part throttle can be simulated very accurately and that's important to me. Max numbers dont excite me the way area under the curve does.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by gotovato I've thought about etuning for sure but something about a controlled dyno tune helps me feel better about what's going on. Another thing I've noticed, in general maybe not specific to the etuners on this platform but most seem only to tune for wot and Max power. I'm not aiming for max power but more max reliability with good power. The tuner I'm going with tunes a lot of road course cars which means a lot of time is spent tuning part throttle, and on a dynapack hub dyno, part throttle can be simulated very accurately and that's important to me. Max numbers dont excite me the way area under the curve does.

I would recommend you do an etune with TunedByNishan. He etuned my speed3 about a month ago and my car has never felt better. He also tunes it for part throttle which makes the car very pleasant to drive in the city or just cruising. If your not shooting for high whp then you can always let him know and he will keep the power lower.


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[gotovato]

Originally Posted by Dennisms3 I would recommend you do an etune with TunedByNishan. He etuned my speed3 about a month ago and my car has never felt better. He also tunes it for part throttle which makes the car very pleasant to drive in the city or just cruising. If your not shooting for high whp then you can always let him know and he will keep the power lower. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks for the input ill definitely consider it! its not that i dont want high whp, its that i dont want to give up safety for it. what the car makes the car makes, im not one to push another pound of boost, or add another degree of timing to chase every last HP if that means im driving a ticking time bomb.

[Dennisms3]

Originally Posted by gotovato thanks for the input ill definitely consider it! its not that i dont want high whp, its that i dont want to give up safety for it. what the car makes the car makes, im not one to push another pound of boost, or add another degree of timing to chase every last HP if that means im driving a ticking time bomb.

Nishan knows what he's doing. He knows when to cap the car at what boost lvls and timing, not to mention he's super helpful and quick to response.


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[gotovato]

Originally Posted by Dennisms3 Nishan knows what he's doing. He knows when to cap the car at what boost lvls and timing, not to mention he's super helpful and quick to response. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

perfect. ill reach out to him and see what he could do for me. cars currently parked for the winter though so nothing can really happen till spring

[soaptray]

Okay, so finally got some time to start addressing the issue with my coolant leak. I am midway through tearing off the top end. Praying for a blown head gasket.

I did find that my CDFP was leaking a bit of oil through the gasket... so will be replacing that gasket along with the others.

Throttle body is off, and just about ready to pull the intake manifold off. Man, is that thing ever full of gunk... makes me want to do an EGR delete... but I live in a province where we have yearly smog certification... so that kinda puts a damper in things.

I wonder how much the OCC has helped since it was installed 20-30k ago.

None the less, will be cleaning everything I take off thoroughly before reinstalling.

Not looking forward to taking the timing chain and cams out - a bit worried about getting everything back in without screwing up timing.

Here are a few pics of the progress. Don't mind the grime - haven't done much cleaning yet and it was pretty gunky around the fuel pump.

[Jeff23spl]

If you need to lift the head, you will need the timing tools ,timing steps and parts replacement needed. Unless you mark everything down very carefully (Chain on gears+ gears on cams) as cam and crank are keyless. Dont forget all friction washers and pulley bolt are junk after being used once. While doing it, i would replace the chain as it tend to stretch over time.

HOW-TO VVT

[soaptray]

I have the friction washers in my cart - was waiting until I finished pulling everything apart to see what else needed replacing. Didn't have the chain or pulley bolt on my list - will look into those.

Need to do a bit more reading on the timing chain it seems.

Thank you.

[Jeff23spl]

To avoid bent valves and the need to practice the same job again, don't skip steps with the timing stuff.

[soaptray]

In most cases when you open this up as a result of another job, should I replace any of:

- VVT Actuator Gear
- Chain Tensioner
- Chain Guide / Tensioner Guides

Thanks again!