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 Old 02-09-2017, 01:19 PM   #1
 
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Default 06 Speed 6 - Daily fun build

Hey all. I'm still relatively new here. I got my speed 6 in December of 2015. When I bought it, it already had:
Accessport (V3)
HPFP internals
EGR Block Off
VTA BOV (HKS)
Catless 3" DP (to stock exhaust)

The other turbo car I had was an SRT4. These engines are definitely different and I'm still really a beginner when it comes to understanding turbos.

I know the looks and sounds I like and most importantly I want good function.

In December of 2016 my turbo started smoking (I have about 96K miles on it). After research, I found that basically I need to replace the turbo. I also think I have an exhaust leak somewhere and whoever put the DP on did some shotty welding in my opinion.

So, time for some upgrades =)

I am going to be adding:
3" full custom exhaust including a high flow cat, resonator, no mufflers
XS Power turbo manifold
BNR S4 (v2)
3.5" intake
3 port EBCS
3 Bar MAP
Purple Drank tune

Probably later this summer I'll be adding a large FMIC

Before all that, I thought I'd post up some datalogs. I honestly really don't know how to read them other than knowing what some of the acronyms mean. I don't always know how they impact things. But, I know some of you will love to read those.


My goal with this is to have a fun daily driver, be able to pass slow people when I need to, and do occasional track days.
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 Old 02-09-2017, 01:24 PM   #2
 
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Welcome!

Looks like a pretty good plan. You should definitely consider an upgraded intercooler as well, the stocker will definitely hold you back.
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 Old 02-09-2017, 01:30 PM   #3
 
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I would do it now, but it's just a bit cost prohibitive. I've already spent quite a bit on what I do have. I'm looking at the HDI GT2 Pro which is $600 shipped, but I shouldn't have to cut the crash bar at all.
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 Old 02-09-2017, 01:37 PM   #4
 
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Didn't realize you already had all those parts. Have fun with the install. The HDI kit is a pretty decent deal honestly. The fact you don't have to chop the crashbar is definitely a plus, but I think I remember reading somewhere that there's a fitment issue with the power steering cooler because the AUS cars use a different one or something like that?
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Damond Motorsports = PS Cooler - RMM - PMM - OCC
VersaTuner = Versatune
Clutchmasters = 850 Street Twindisk
Corksport = RDM - CBE - RSB - TMM Insert
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Technafit = SS Brake Lines - SS Clutch Line
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 Old 02-09-2017, 02:40 PM   #5
 
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I believe what I read was there's a fitment issue on the AUS cars. I'll be sure and double check that though.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 12:46 PM   #6
 
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Part 1 - new exhaust.

This is a full 3" exhaust with one high flow cat, one short resonator in the single line (Vibrant brand) then two resonators before the tips (Magnaflow).

Here's a video link for sound:

https://youtu.be/hEA81Wz16Do
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File Type: jpg Exhaust (1).jpg (498.2 KB, 22 views)

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 Old 02-23-2017, 01:03 PM   #7
 
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Should be fun, and great exhaust!

Just curious, are you doing any engine mount upgrading?
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 Old 02-23-2017, 04:09 PM   #8
 
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Not yet. I did the exhaust because the previous owner had a janky weld from the DP to the stock exhaust and I thought I had leak somewhere. Rather than just fix, I decided to upgrade =)

Also, turbo was smoking...so I upgraded, lol

During tuning, we'll see what the tuner thinks about power and engine mounts. He thinks I'll only be around 300hp with this stuff.
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 Old 02-23-2017, 04:56 PM   #9
 
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Should at least add a rear motor mount...makes a big difference in shifting feel and everyday drivability.
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 Old 02-25-2017, 08:09 PM   #10
 
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I had the JBR rear sway bar on my speed3, the middle level was good at the track a few times i got the rear end to kick out on a FWD car it was an odd feeling
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 Old 03-06-2017, 11:36 PM   #11
 
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***I know, pic links broken, working on it****

Ok, so I got a bunch installed.

First, here's my FMIC install post:

HDI GT2 Pro FMIC install on MS6

I didn't want to put all that in here; didn't want to crowd this post.

So, after dealing with the FMIC, it was time for the turbo, exhaust mani, and intake.

I just want to post up some troubles, tips and tricks that I found and some pics for those looking for it.


The first thing, when getting the turbo out, note the way the hard lines are pointed and which ones are which.

Second, unbolt the lines before trying to pull the turbo. I didn't do that (other than the top oil line, then later the lower section of the drain port because obviously you have to).

Third, when installing the turbo and connecting the lower oil drain port make "studs" to put in the holes on the block and then slip the oil line onto it and use nuts to lock it down. I tried a few times to get the screws lined up in the holes and it would not work. A friend mentioned making studs there and that worked like a charm.

Fourth, when connecting the coolant drain line, make sure that hose clamp is TIGHT. I thought it was tight but it was not and I was leaking coolant. Then I had to try and tighten it after the mani was in and that is tough. I was literally laying across the engine. I'm glad I remembered that hose clamp nuts can also be turned with a socket!

With the new short ram intake, you'll need a smaller battery (51R) and you'll have to cut down the battery tray and move it backwards. I ended up only being able to use one lock down point to keep the tray down.

My intake is the JBR 3.5". There's a nipple on it for the EBCS vacuum line. This nipple is in a horrible spot as it barely clears the brake fluid resevoir. If it were moved over about 3" and/or up 3" it'd be way better. Also, the recirculating tube ends up being low and and mine was touching the shifter cables so I cut it back so it would't be touching. I did like that this kit came with a cap for that tube since I already have VTA BOV.

Also, to get the intake to fit right on the turbo, I had to unbolt the shifter cable "tie down". There's a small bracket that just holds them sort of in place. I unbolted that and slid it back in order to allow the intake to sit right.

I replaced the top vent line with another one that would direct and easy - used a hose clamp, call it good =)


My exhaust mani - I did paint it with the VHT 2000 degree paint.




The turbo inlet area - you can see the shifter cable bracket hanging back there after I unbolted it



Here's the nipple barely clearing the brake fluid resevoir





Small battery moved back



New turbo, manifold, and IC



Also, I'll say that with the BNR S4 I hear the spool way more than a stock turbo. Not sure I like that though. It sounds like a light version of a diesel truck. I'm sure I'll get used to it...or just turn the music up louder, lol.


And, a few more engine bay pics for all you enginephiles:






Last edited by Flying_NEB; 09-28-2017 at 04:25 PM. Reason: pic links broken
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 Old 03-07-2017, 05:58 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by Flying_NEB View Post
Also, I'll say that with the BNR S4 I hear the spool way more than a stock turbo. Not sure I like that though. It sounds like a light version of a diesel truck. I'm sure I'll get used to it...or just turn the music up louder, lol.
You've got the S4v2 yeah? Tell ya what, if the spooling sound becomes unbearable I'd take it off your hands no questions asked, you know, for posterity's sake haha
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So I can see/be seen better: DDM LED for Nagare Accent lights, DDM Switchbacks Front turn signals, Osram CBI's, ADVmonster LED Fogs

To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver.
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 Old 03-07-2017, 10:01 AM   #13
 
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Excellent! How many miles on your engine? Did you do a comp check beforehand?
Cant wait to see what your tune ends up like. I would imagine you wont be pushing it that hard since you're on a stock block.

This is the route I am considering. Hence my curiosity. I for one love that you can hear the turbo more than stock...even at idle. Post up a sound clip.
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 Old 03-07-2017, 11:50 AM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by MoMS3 View Post
You've got the S4v2 yeah? Tell ya what, if the spooling sound becomes unbearable I'd take it off your hands no questions asked, you know, for posterity's sake haha
Ha ha ha....no.

After all this work I put in, I'll get used to it =)

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer View Post
Excellent! How many miles on your engine? Did you do a comp check beforehand?
Cant wait to see what your tune ends up like. I would imagine you wont be pushing it that hard since you're on a stock block.

This is the route I am considering. Hence my curiosity. I for one love that you can hear the turbo more than stock...even at idle. Post up a sound clip.
I've got around 90K miles. It's from Canada so the speedo and odo are in KM so I have to convert =)

My compression was fairly even. 1,2,4 were all around 165 I believe and then 3 was a little lower at like 148. I talked to a couple people including the tuner who said that's somewhat normal and that difference isn't too horrible.

Sometime in the future, when I have more money, I'm going to upgrade the pistons/rods and address the cylinders to make sure it's all strong. I'm not looking to go huge numbers with it, just make it reliable and strong.
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 Old 03-07-2017, 12:43 PM   #15
 
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@Flying_NEB; Oh come on, I'd even help you swap it out with my minty fresh K04 warranty replacement.

BTW Just noticed you're down in Snoho, I'm up in Bellingham and often head south to Seattle, I'd be curious in doing a ride-along once it's tuned and whatnot, if you're into that...
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To-do List: BNR S4, maybe S5...bottom end build, probably should do brakes/suspension at some point. Shooting for a 450-500whp daily driver.
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 Old 03-07-2017, 12:49 PM   #16
 
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@MoMS3 - Pm'ed
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Originally Posted by Flying_NEB View Post
Ha ha ha....no.

After all this work I put in, I'll get used to it =)



I've got around 90K miles. It's from Canada so the speedo and odo are in KM so I have to convert =)

My compression was fairly even. 1,2,4 were all around 165 I believe and then 3 was a little lower at like 148. I talked to a couple people including the tuner who said that's somewhat normal and that difference isn't too horrible.

Sometime in the future, when I have more money, I'm going to upgrade the pistons/rods and address the cylinders to make sure it's all strong. I'm not looking to go huge numbers with it, just make it reliable and strong.
Those are low numbers. I was expecting something along the lines of 180. I just hit 110K so very curious where I'll test out at.

What PSI will you be targeting? Pop and drop or are you going to remove the motor and do a forged build?

I grew up in Vancouver, Washington and moved to Cali in 2001 at the ripe old age of 30. Ha! Lots of good memories hanging out on my sisters boat in Bellingham cruising around the islands pulling in crab.
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 Old 03-07-2017, 05:42 PM   #18
 
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I have no idea what I want to do with strengthening the motor. I just know I'd like to do it eventually.

Regarding the compression numbers, I thought they were a little low too but the tuner (Purple Drank) said that as long as they're the same it shouldn't be a big deal.

It was also my first time doing a compression test...well, actually second. The first time I did it cold and got low weird numbers. Then I did it a second time with it warm and got the other numbers. I'll probably do it again now that I know more and since I want to pull the valve cover and paint it.
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 Old 09-28-2017, 04:26 PM   #19
 
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Well, ran into an issue. I think the manifold or the turbo were not completely flat and was allowing exhaust out and it burned up the gasket.

I'll post pics once I find a new place to store them since photobucket changed on me.
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