2.3 Ecoboost crate motor

[Mazduhspeed6]

Ok, I know there are a few talks about interchangeable parts and stuff like that. But because I just recently blew my trans in my speed 6 and have low comp in my motor I was looking at options. One of the things that happened to pop up when I googled 2.3 mazda turbo motor for shits and giggles was a link to Fords racing 2.3 Ecoboost mustang crate motor and you can buy the full control kit to make it plug and play in a swap. My question isnt about taking parts from the motor.

My question is as a whole with the plug and play control kit would the motor sit in the factory location of the speed6 motor and more importantly would a speed6 transmission mount up to the 2.3 Ecoboost motor. I know the price and all that, I'm just curious if it would work or not, trying to figure out my options, I also have a thread asking about the JDM speed6 motor and trans asking if it's a direct drop in, I believe it should be because obviously our cars were made in Japan so I would think it would. Thanks Raz the shit outta me, I'm just curious about the whole Ecoboost thing.

[flapjack]

Well starting off I'll just say this; If money is no object to you, you can make it happen.

It would be difficult though and take a lot of time and work. Just by looking at the Mustang block, I can tell that the motor mount locations are not the same as the speeds. You have to make custom motor/trans mounts. Also it doesn't look like the trans would mount straight to the block, so you'd need an adapter plate custom made to make it work and thats just assuming everything fits right with an adapter plate.

After you get all that to fit right, you'll then have to hook up and route the plug&play setup which I doubt would be compatible with the stock gauge cluster or instrument panel anyway.

After its all said and done, you'd have spent more money than just getting a 2.3 DISI shortblock built for 700HP, P&P'd head, and big turbo setup.

As far as interchangeable parts go, I think the only confirmed one is the the oil pump.

[zenit]

link?

[Mazduhspeed6]

Ok I figured it'd be an in-depth swap, but was a long shot. It'd would just be really nice to buy a fully assembled longblock from well if it was still possible mazda, but I can only find short block and head, no assembled long blocks anymore. I mean I know they have different intake manifolds and exhaust manifold...ok so throw that out the window,, I was already started on a forge build it was just something that crossed my mind when I saw the motor. Curious though as we can use the fost intake manifold because it bolts up and is better fooling, I kinda like the exhaust manifold on the fost as it looks like it would free up some room because of the way it's cast, does the IT mount to the Mzr block

[flapjack]

Originally Posted by Mazduhspeed6 Ok I figured it'd be an in-depth swap, but was a long shot. It'd would just be really nice to buy a fully assembled longblock from well if it was still possible mazda, but I can only find short block and head, no assembled long blocks anymore. I mean I know they have different intake manifolds and exhaust manifold...ok so throw that out the window,, I was already started on a forge build it was just something that crossed my mind when I saw the motor. Curious though as we can use the fost intake manifold because it bolts up and is better fooling, I kinda like the exhaust manifold on the fost as it looks like it would free up some room because of the way it's cast, does the IT mount to the Mzr block

So what is your overall goal here? You just want something that's different or you want an easy drop in longblock? If thats the case, edgeautosport has a reman with stock internals for $4140 MZR DISI Remanufactured Long Block Mazdaspeed 3 Mazdaspeed 6 2006-2013

[Mazduhspeed6]

Those motors are garbage, I had one, actually 2 they replaced the first one after 5k miles because compression dropped to 120 and lower across all 4 and then the second motor last about 13k then dropped compression to 120 across all 4. They weren't done right to begin with, I compression tested them every 500 miles and the first motor was 150x4 when it showed up then the second motor was 160x4 and each time I got a motor like that and I called and told them about it, they said because they machine the tolerances alil looser...hahahaha, horseshit, more like none existent. Their machining standards are horse shit, and their warranty people they send are fucking idiots, I had the gold no questions warranty but they fucked me on the second motor because the guy opened the hood up and looked at the GFB Dual port BPV and said that's going to be a problem, and I qoute, see that set screw on top, people like to turn that all the way in and get lots and lots of boost." End qoute so anyways point being, I will stay away from remans from now on, it'll either be a used motor with low miles that I know at least was assembled and built using mazda ford fomoco parts instead of a motor that was put together using Chinese this and that and oversized and undersized bearings. Other then that I'll do a built block with forged internals or a Mazda short block with a Mazda head and just assemble it myself. That's where I'm at, I guess really I just need to figure out my trans sitcheation

[Mazduhspeed6]

Just so it's said, I broke in those 2 motors following their stupid break in or the warranty would be null and void. Required conventional oil for the first 5k miles, and a change within the first 500. I religiously followed there procedure paper that came with the motor.

[flapjack]

Originally Posted by Mazduhspeed6 Those motors are garbage, I had one, actually 2 they replaced the first one after 5k miles because compression dropped to 120 and lower across all 4 and then the second motor last about 13k then dropped compression to 120 across all 4. They weren't done right to begin with, I compression tested them every 500 miles and the first motor was 150x4 when it showed up then the second motor was 160x4 and each time I got a motor like that and I called and told them about it, they said because they machine the tolerances alil looser...hahahaha, horseshit, more like none existent. Their machining standards are horse shit, and their warranty people they send are fucking idiots, I had the gold no questions warranty but they fucked me on the second motor because the guy opened the hood up and looked at the GFB Dual port BPV and said that's going to be a problem, and I qoute, see that set screw on top, people like to turn that all the way in and get lots and lots of boost." End qoute so anyways point being, I will stay away from remans from now on, it'll either be a used motor with low miles that I know at least was assembled and built using mazda ford fomoco parts instead of a motor that was put together using Chinese this and that and oversized and undersized bearings. Other then that I'll do a built block with forged internals or a Mazda short block with a Mazda head and just assemble it myself. That's where I'm at, I guess really I just need to figure out my trans sitcheation

That really sucks man, sorry that happened to you. Yeah I've heard they are turning to shit lately with quality. A few guys around here have used them and had good luck so far but I'm not sure I'd trust a long block from them.

[sms1701]

I will give a fair warning here-

Do not... do NOT.... DO NOT... use the Ford Ecoboost 2.3 engine in a Mazdaspeed 6... or really in any car. It is indeed the same 2.3L block coming from the same engine factory in Spain with some MAJOR differences/defects.

Since Ford likes to cheat to get HP and torque numbers, they jam all kinds of overboost into the engine. The cylinders/rods/pistons can take overboost for a short period of time. So can the cylinders/rods/pistons in my grandpa’s Buick Century, or a POS 80’s clapped out Civic. Then the Ecoboost ECU reduces the boost.

Why?

Because the problem with doing this repeatedly is you create so much additional heat as a result of the extra produced torque. So to compensate for this, the fine Ford “engineers” decided to make an “open-deck” cooling system. The cylinders aren’t surrounded by metal, they have a moat of coolant flowing around them. This creates a litany of problems in boosted engines, such as:

1. Head gasket failure. Which leads to catastrophic engine failure because the coolant, found in great abundance RIGHT OUTSIDE OF THE CYLINDER, flows into the cylinder after the engine cools. Next time you go to start the car you immediately bend rods. This is happening to so many of the 2.3 Ecoboost motors (ESPECIALLY in the Focus RS) that Ford already sent TSB guidance to dealerships.

2. Cracked engine blocks. Since there is so little metal between the cylinders and the outside of the engine, these motors are cracking like eggs because there is literally less than 1/8” of aluminum between this magical moat of coolant and the outside of the block. This is fine in say, a normal Honda Civic, because Honda doesn’t fake engineer more horsepower out of a block that can’t take it. Normal Civics have less than 170ish HP for a reason.

The Mazdaspeed MZR DISI motor has a closed-deck cooling system in the block, where the coolant channels are machined through the block, and there is plenty of metal around the cylinders.

3. If some other component fails, like the High-Pressure Fuel Pump (which is killing a TON of Mustang Ecoboost motors), this will cause detonation. Since most cars can handle occasional pinging/detonation, this usually doesn’t matter. But when you are cheat-ass Ford overboosting an engine with so much air... and you don’t have the fuel to mix with it because of a pump failure.... EcoBOOM lol. You create nice holes in your block for the rats to sleep.

Want proof? https://youtu.be/CuGodKdRLpE

So what’s the moral of the story here? Just buy a long-block from Mazda. The part number is:

L3M6-02-300M

This is a stem-to-stern BRAND new, final-generation MZR 2.3 DISI motor used in the 2013 Speed 3. It includes the cylinder head, spark plugs, valve cover, oil pan, PVC assembly all pre-assembled. It is already timed and ready to drop in. Most places/dealerships will sell it for a little less than 4 grand, and it comes with a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty.

I know this because I put this motor in my Speed 6 last year, and it runs beautifully.

So a word of wisdom again- DO NOT USE THE FORD ECOBOOST 2.3 garbage motor in a Mazda.

[pwdunmore]

Originally Posted by sms1701 I will give a fair warning here- Do not... do NOT.... DO NOT... use the Ford Ecoboost 2.3 engine in a Mazdaspeed 6... or really in any car. It is indeed the same 2.3L block coming from the same engine factory in Spain with some MAJOR differences/defects. Since Ford likes to cheat to get HP and torque numbers, they jam all kinds of overboost into the engine. The cylinders/rods/pistons can take overboost for a short period of time. So can the cylinders/rods/pistons in my grandpa’s Buick Century, or a POS 80’s clapped out Civic. Then the Ecoboost ECU reduces the boost. Why? Because the problem with doing this repeatedly is you create so much additional heat as a result of the extra produced torque. So to compensate for this, the fine Ford “engineers” decided to make an “open-deck” cooling system. The cylinders aren’t surrounded by metal, they have a moat of coolant flowing around them. This creates a litany of problems in boosted engines, such as: 1. Head gasket failure. Which leads to catastrophic engine failure because the coolant, found in great abundance RIGHT OUTSIDE OF THE CYLINDER, flows into the cylinder after the engine cools. Next time you go to start the car you immediately bend rods. This is happening to so many of the 2.3 Ecoboost motors (ESPECIALLY in the Focus RS) that Ford already sent TSB guidance to dealerships. 2. Cracked engine blocks. Since there is so little metal between the cylinders and the outside of the engine, these motors are cracking like eggs because there is literally less than 1/8” of aluminum between this magical moat of coolant and the outside of the block. This is fine in say, a normal Honda Civic, because Honda doesn’t fake engineer more horsepower out of a block that can’t take it. Normal Civics have less than 170ish HP for a reason. The Mazdaspeed MZR DISI motor has a closed-deck cooling system in the block, where the coolant channels are machined through the block, and there is plenty of metal around the cylinders. 3. If some other component fails, like the High-Pressure Fuel Pump (which is killing a TON of Mustang Ecoboost motors), this will cause detonation. Since most cars can handle occasional pinging/detonation, this usually doesn’t matter. But when you are cheat-ass Ford overboosting an engine with so much air... and you don’t have the fuel to mix with it because of a pump failure.... EcoBOOM lol. You create nice holes in your block for the rats to sleep. Want proof? https://youtu.be/CuGodKdRLpE So what’s the moral of the story here? Just buy a long-block from Mazda. The part number is: L3M6-02-300M This is a stem-to-stern BRAND new, final-generation MZR 2.3 DISI motor used in the 2013 Speed 3. It includes the cylinder head, spark plugs, valve cover, oil pan, PVC assembly all pre-assembled. It is already timed and ready to drop in. Most places/dealerships will sell it for a little less than 4 grand, and it comes with a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty. I know this because I put this motor in my Speed 6 last year, and it runs beautifully. So a word of wisdom again- DO NOT USE THE FORD ECOBOOST 2.3 garbage motor in a Mazda.

lol good first post... but why would the OP do the simple thing?!?!

[Pu Manchu]

he waited 2 years to drop that on us, that's a wild first post.

[sms1701]

Originally Posted by pwdunmore lol good first post... but why would the OP do the simple thing?!?!

Haha I know, and I decided to finally speak up because I’ve seen so many people get dicked by Ford with this motor.

[Tomas]

Glad you are out of the closet.

[g00s3y]

We should all be so thankful to this random nobody for giving us this information.

I can only imagine how many people, who needed a new MZR motor, went out and purchased this instead. Finally, the nightmare is over.

[JakeMS3]

Originally Posted by g00s3y We should all be so thankful to this random nobody for giving us this information. I can only imagine how many people, who needed a new MZR motor, went out and purchased this instead. Finally, the nightmare is over.

Lol, Goosey, you never cease to amaze. I too am glad this mysterious lurker bestowed this wealth of knowledge amongst the community as I was lining up an EcoBoost engine after reading OP’s thread. (Sarcasm)

[sms1701]

Originally Posted by g00s3y We should all be so thankful to this random nobody for giving us this information. I can only imagine how many people, who needed a new MZR motor, went out and purchased this instead. Finally, the nightmare is over.

Haha I love this. Yeah, I've taken quite a lot from these forums... especially when I had to get the new motor in the Speed 6 last year.

Lately I've seen/read so much about how the Focus RS and Mustang Ecoboost owners are whining, crying, and disappointed because Ford destroyed this engine. Some of the shit on youtube is both laughable and sad at the same time.

After digging and really finding out how BAD Ford messed it up, I thought it's time to steer anybody in a Mazda away from making a massive mistake.

Now I'll go back into my cave until I receive another grand revelation.

[Inzane81]

Originally Posted by sms1701 I will give a fair warning here- Do not... do NOT.... DO NOT... use the Ford Ecoboost 2.3 engine in a Mazdaspeed 6... or really in any car. It is indeed the same 2.3L block coming from the same engine factory in Spain with some MAJOR differences/defects. Since Ford likes to cheat to get HP and torque numbers, they jam all kinds of overboost into the engine. The cylinders/rods/pistons can take overboost for a short period of time. So can the cylinders/rods/pistons in my grandpa’s Buick Century, or a POS 80’s clapped out Civic. Then the Ecoboost ECU reduces the boost. Why? Because the problem with doing this repeatedly is you create so much additional heat as a result of the extra produced torque. So to compensate for this, the fine Ford “engineers” decided to make an “open-deck” cooling system. The cylinders aren’t surrounded by metal, they have a moat of coolant flowing around them. This creates a litany of problems in boosted engines, such as: 1. Head gasket failure. Which leads to catastrophic engine failure because the coolant, found in great abundance RIGHT OUTSIDE OF THE CYLINDER, flows into the cylinder after the engine cools. Next time you go to start the car you immediately bend rods. This is happening to so many of the 2.3 Ecoboost motors (ESPECIALLY in the Focus RS) that Ford already sent TSB guidance to dealerships. 2. Cracked engine blocks. Since there is so little metal between the cylinders and the outside of the engine, these motors are cracking like eggs because there is literally less than 1/8” of aluminum between this magical moat of coolant and the outside of the block. This is fine in say, a normal Honda Civic, because Honda doesn’t fake engineer more horsepower out of a block that can’t take it. Normal Civics have less than 170ish HP for a reason. The Mazdaspeed MZR DISI motor has a closed-deck cooling system in the block, where the coolant channels are machined through the block, and there is plenty of metal around the cylinders. 3. If some other component fails, like the High-Pressure Fuel Pump (which is killing a TON of Mustang Ecoboost motors), this will cause detonation. Since most cars can handle occasional pinging/detonation, this usually doesn’t matter. But when you are cheat-ass Ford overboosting an engine with so much air... and you don’t have the fuel to mix with it because of a pump failure.... EcoBOOM lol. You create nice holes in your block for the rats to sleep. Want proof? https://youtu.be/CuGodKdRLpE So what’s the moral of the story here? Just buy a long-block from Mazda. The part number is: L3M6-02-300M This is a stem-to-stern BRAND new, final-generation MZR 2.3 DISI motor used in the 2013 Speed 3. It includes the cylinder head, spark plugs, valve cover, oil pan, PVC assembly all pre-assembled. It is already timed and ready to drop in. Most places/dealerships will sell it for a little less than 4 grand, and it comes with a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty. I know this because I put this motor in my Speed 6 last year, and it runs beautifully. So a word of wisdom again- DO NOT USE THE FORD ECOBOOST 2.3 garbage motor in a Mazda.

Would this engine work in a 2008 Gen 1?

[JakeMS3]

Originally Posted by Inzane81 Would this engine work in a 2008 Gen 1?

If this is sarcasm in relation to OP’s post, you’re about a month too late. That, or this has to be troll...