The most awaited build in MSF history

[Dano]

that's an interesting opinion...

[06Speed6]

Originally Posted by crazyp is the machining going to be local or out of town?

Yeah local.


I dont think I am going to raise the fp past 2000psi, I dont use atr.

[mrmonk7663]

Take this statement into consideration when modifying the "hard line" This is quoted from everyones favorite...John at PTP!!! Whoosh also worked on something like this, and you can search here for "whoosh mod" or something to that effect.


"We modifiy the shuttle valve at the high pressure side of the fuel pump. The OEM passage is 1.2mm We open this up to 2.3 mm to allow for a great flow volume through the shuttle valve. We then modify a new high pressure supply line from 1.3mm to 2.5mm. Some ask, "why do you open them up this much", we did several tests verifying what would work best for the application. We found that 3mm was to much and caused very agressive pressure changes (up to 400 psi). We found that modifying the line but not the shuttle valve had zero effect on fuel delivery. So, this is a two part design that gives an additional 18% flow."

"Pressure bleed by holes… these are very important for lower seal longevity (VW and Audi market really have a problem with this). What we have found in testing is that a single hole is not enough to support the proper feed back into the fuel return side. You are running a higher volume/pressure of fuel and more fuel will need to be sent back. The OEM single hole is not enough, so with our fuel pumps we have two holes feeding the low pressure fuel back into the pump return (internal passages). This is a patent pending design with our fuel pumps, so nobody will be able to reproduce it."


I think the above paragraph is the reason why the 2150 rail valves will NOT work with the majority of our setups.

[crazyp]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 Yeah local. I dont think I am going to raise the fp past 2000psi, I dont use atr.

cool can't wait to see how it goes

[06Speed6]

The 2150psi valves work fine at stock or near stock pressures, I think 1950ish spiking to 2000 will be fine and if its not ill lower it until it is.

[mrmonk7663]

What internals do you have? Myself and a multitude of others did not get the 2150 valve to work, and John from PTP could not get the valve to work on my autotechs. I was commanding 1500 psi...lower than stock values, and pegging the sensor like it was no mans business.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 The 2150psi valves work fine at stock or near stock pressures, I think 1950ish spiking to 2000 will be fine and if its not ill lower it until it is.

FWIW I have sporadic difficulty keeping off the sensor limit of 2073 with my PTP 2150 RV. it typically occurs in the upper RPMs but can happen post shift when getting back on the gas.

I command 1897 up until 6K where I drop to 1808 and I actually run 1950 to 20ish with the above mentioned spikes to 2073 from time to time... I need a lil more tweaking and I'll hopefully get it under control. I think I have the upper RPM spike gone and now just need to get rid of the post shift spikes which will likely require lowering the entire range down to 1808.

its so sporadic it may take awhile. I would like to run right at 2k but that's easier said than done with ATR at least...hopefully Versatuner will be easier for ya.

[06Speed6]

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 What internals do you have? Myself and a multitude of others did not get the 2150 valve to work, and John from PTP could not get the valve to work on my autotechs. I was commanding 1500 psi...lower than stock values, and pegging the sensor like it was no mans business.

I have a set of autotechs but I might sell them for a cpe. John sent me a stage 3 pump to test but it was just a used stock pump and I sent him a new core for it and paid shipping so I am kinda against owning a ptp pump. He swears its a stage 3 but I tore through it with a micrometer and compaired it to my spare oem and its stock as fuck.

Internals shouldnt make a difference in how the relief valve functions.

[mrmonk7663]

Its not a function of the relief valve that is the issue, it is the ability to bleed off the excess fuel pressure. It seems that not only pressure increases, but volume increases as well, and the relief valve can't bleed it off quick enough. I eventually sent my 2150 back to John, and other locals who had purchased one (with bigger turbos and much more power than I) also had the same issues...they went back to stock valve. I got John to send me a 1950 valve. The 1950 valve initially spiked and cut like the 2150, but it did not stay pegged as long...so I tuned the fuel pressure tables and I have it gotten it to work pretty well.

My biggest complaint is that the 2150 was advertised to work fine...and it flat out did not. The valve itself functions correctly, but not on a stock sensor (which we have no work around yet) and in my opinion, not without drilling out the hard line like you want to do increasing the size of the pump check valve (spill valve?)
Stage 3 should be easy to identify...John uses a totally different set of internals, no where close to stock, on the stage 3.

left to right: S3 fuel pump internals, S1/2 fuel pump internals, stock fuel pump internals. 2nd pic is the larger diameter of the pump check valve or as John calls it in the quote from above, shuttle valve, whatever. I hope some of this info proves to be benefical to you...I'm not trying to crowd up your thread

[holeinmypocket]

Pauter Rods & CP Pistons

[bobbybennett23]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 Since everyone started cracking open champagne bottles and throwing parties when I bent a couple rods, I figured that I should start a official build thread. I guess people have been praying that ide finally blow and start bolting parts on, well sweet baby Jesus has heard your prayers and answered them. First lets start with the good stuff, I am going to be running the most built motor on the planet. It will be built once and it will be done right. I have a prepped block that I am going to install timeserts for oversize main and head studs. All bearing surfaces will be coated along with the pistons and sleeves. I may also install a main girdle plate made of 1" steel that will also tie into the balance shaft bolt holes, I am not positive on that though. I am going to run eagle rods and gen2 ms3 oem pistons that are ceramic coated and dry film coated. King bearings will replace the oem bearings. A Cosworth high flow oil pump will round out the block. The head is fully ported and flow benched, it flows 265cfm @1psi on the intake side and 200cfm @1psi on the exhaust side. It has 1mm oversize inconel exhaust valves and stock intake valves, new viton seals, new locks, oem retainers, and Cosworth springs. I will also be running a DCR VVT and upgraded cams. I have a set of flow benched, matched injectors along with the Toyota seals and a injector stud kit. A gen2 valve cover and custom crankcase breather should keep the blowby in check, they will be vented to the exhaust. The egr is completely deleted and welded closed. I am going to chop up the oem IM and have it ported to match the head and I am going to weld a new plenum on and its going to look something like Erichs IM. It will use the Hemi tb which is a fair bit larger than stock. I will be slightly reworking my l/a system to make it purdy, cuz it looks like ass now lol. I will also be converting to a blow through setup and a full vta bov. My trans has been fucked for about a year so its also going to get a rebuild with upgraded shift forks and new syncros and hopefully upgraded ratios. The tcase will be getting upgraded bearing caps and new bearings. I think I am also going to coat it inside and out to seal it so it doesnt leak anymore. The ps pump will be swapped for the newer model gen1 pump and the rack will have its bushings replaced. New hoses will also be used. The clutch will also be replaced with a 6 puck, but I havent determined which one yet. I think that is about all ill be doing, a new turbo will go on when I get the money for it. Dustin will be making a sidewinder manifold for it and it will be sitting above the trans. The turbo will be the Holset he351ve with a prototype Fleece controller. I do have a few questions if anyone knows, what is the part number for the Arp flywheel and crank bolts and who was it that had a torque plate made?

How can you get differnt gear ratios ?

[Boosted Beluga]

Its a mazda 6 diesel trans from europe. They have slightly longer gear ratios.

[mrmonk7663]

Is the trans a direct bolt in?

[Don06speed6]

You seriously need to search around more homie. It's not a direct bolt in. The gears are pulled from the donor trans and put into ours.

[06Speed6]

The input shaft also has to be machined

[mrmonk7663]

Originally Posted by Don06speed6 You seriously need to search around more homie. It's not a direct bolt in. The gears are pulled from the donor trans and put into ours.

I don't need to search around more "homie." I simply asked a yes or no question that was on topic.

[Don06speed6]

Originally Posted by mrmonk7663 I don't need to search around more "homie." I simply asked a yes or no question that was on topic.

Well if you searched at all you have seen that it doesn't. "Homie"

[SpeedSixxx]

excited to see this build finished.

[06Speed6]

That makes two of us

[06Speed6]

Corksport front sway bar and pauter rods ordered.

[redmnsterut]

Damn, this is going to be sick cant wait to see it done!

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 Corksport front sway bar and pauter rods ordered.

you mean rear sway bar right?

just checking..

[laxplayermjd]

Originally Posted by SpeedSixxx you mean rear sway bar right? just checking..

he means front they are on pre order theresa thread in corksport area

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by laxplayermjd he means front they are on pre order theresa thread in corksport area

ty...

could you link thread please?

[06Speed6]

Just mounted the pauter rods and wisecos up and compaired them to the stockers and holy fuck there has to be at least twice the metal in the pauter rods

[Boosted Beluga]

Yep got to love pauter rods. Idk why more ppl don't use them.

[06Speed6]

Dropped the parts off at the machine shop, they said they would try to work it inbetween other peoples engines.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 Just mounted the pauter rods and wisecos up and compaired them to the stockers and holy fuck there has to be at least twice the metal in the pauter rods

insert "post" for thread



I wanna see a big thick rod....conrod that is.

[Empurfektion]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 Just mounted the pauter rods and wisecos up and compaired them to the stockers and holy fuck there has to be at least twice the metal in the pauter rods

When mine popped I went with k1's. After doing a lot of research I figured they were pretty good for the price and they still help up really well for all that I need. They still had twice the metal as the stockers too. It was crazy to me to see how thin the stock ones really are.

[Dano]

Is is cold in here or is it just me?

[06Speed6]

Ours are beefy compared to some rods but yeah they are really small.

[Dano]

Must just be me....


Tappin

[Boosted Beluga]

Yeah it's just you D.

[Dano]

I thought so....

[Boosted Beluga]

Want to cuddle to warm you up?

[Dano]

nah...but thanks for the offer...i have thick skin.

[06Speed6]

Bought a torque plate, nother part down.

[06Speed6]

So I have a 88mm 5 layer Cometic HG and a 88mm 3 layer Cometic HG, How much compression do you guys think that I would lose with the 5 layer?

[SpeedSixxx]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 So I have a 88mm 5 layer Cometic HG and a 88mm 3 layer Cometic HG, How much compression do you guys think that I would lose with the 5 layer?

ask john at ptp




honestly DCR and PTP both sell a 5 layer HG..

PT-Performance.com

read what he says on his site about compression drop.

[06Speed6]

I think with head and block surface prep the compression drop is very low. Ive been trying to find a good write up on why 5 layer gaskets are better.