andale927's Full-Race EFR 7163 Build (Built Engine)

[andale927]

Figured I'd start a build thread for this since the excitement is getting to me and I need to tell someone lol.

Purchased an Full Race EFR 7163 kit in September 2018 only to do a compression test right after and get the following results:
Cyl 1 190
Cyl 2 190
Cyl 3 165
Cyl 4 190

I was really looking to push the turbo so figured I'd go all out with a built motor. Purchased an SP63 Stage 2 off the shelf build a few months ago and I should be getting it any day now.

Goal with the build is a car that can make big power on the street along with track days, while still spooling well enough to be competitive in Autocross. Goal is ~550whp.

Parts I've ordered so far:
FR EFR 7163 Kit
SP63 Stage 2 Build
South Bend S3 Enduro Clutch Kit
Replacement Slave Cylinder
SP63 6th Port Kit
Aeromotive 325 LPH Fuel Pump (Figure with an unregulated fuel setup any extra flow will help with making my goal numbers on E50)
Eric Yarbrough Wire Tuck w/ PI Dongle
JBR Under-Route Hot Side Kit
CS 3.5 Bar MAP
CS Injector Seals
JBR Oil Pan Baffle
CS Intake Manifold (If it ever goes in stock again...)
Koyorad 25mm Radiator - Already installed this, was a cake walk without a motor in the car.

Some pics:













Before anyone says anything... I am not rich, just run a side business solely to fund all car related activities. Having a monster MZR build has been a dream of mine since I was a kid in highschool nearly 10 years ago and joined the Mazdaspeedforums.

[andale927]

Really wanted to be able to monitor the turbo shaft speed so I can push the turbo to the edge of the compressor map, but didn't want to spend nearly $500 on the Full Race gauge setup for something I would only use while tuning.

Voila, simple Arduino solution to the rescue! Testing it here:


Taking the / 8 divisor on the shaft speed sensor and wheel blade into account is as simple as adding a few more lines of code.

It's super responsive and should work really well. Might actually set it up with a tach signal and try logging the data to an SD card.

[shaneski]

The full race is quality, probably should of gone with the ceramic coat. I had the coated manifold when i was on a Garret turbo, it stopped a shit load of under bonnet heat soak compared to bare metal.

[tdement]

Looks slick. Could always get some of your own coating for the mani.

[Jeff23spl]

header wrap maybe?

[andale927]

I like both forums so I hope no one is annoyed i'm posting in two places.

_______________________________

Thanks for the positive feedback!

Alright, I'm convinced and will get the manifold ceramic coated by these guys:
https://boneheadperformance.com/color-charts/#8

Here is what it looks like now with the shorty WGA and the turbo clocked for under-route piping:



Hopefully the under route doesn't require much modification, I haven't seen anyone try it yet.

[andale927]

Dropped off the exhaust manifold to get ceramic coated black (Cerakote Glacier Black) and got some cleaning done in the engine bay. Wish I had a before pic, it was pretty nasty for 40k miles. Did the best I could do without running water.



Also decided I will be self-tuning this setup. It will be my first time tuning... Hell of a build to learn on LOL.

[eroler1]

Damn what did you use to clean the engine bay, last time I used purple power and pressure washer (cover all electrical) but dust came back before putting engine lol

[andale927]

Originally Posted by eroler1 Damn what did you use to clean the engine bay, last time I used purple power and pressure washer (cover all electrical) but dust came back before putting engine lol

I used meguiars quick detailer and long pile microfiber towels. Used a detail brush to get all the nooks and crannies. Mostly patience because I didn't have water available lol.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[eroler1]

lol didn't think about quick detailers thanks for the advice gonna copy that

[Fstrnyou]

The good thing about learning to tune on a built motor is the parts are more robust to take the abuse of minor mishaps that WILL happen.
The bad thing about learning to tune on a built motor is it can get pretty costly if the mishaps aren't so minor.

[Jayzon]

Nice tips for cleaning the engine bay. Mine's nasty right now

[andale927]

Originally Posted by Jayzon Nice tips for cleaning the engine bay. Mine's nasty right now

Step 1: Remove Engine
Step 2: ???
Step 3: Profit


Lol

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[andale927]

Got some more miscellaneous shit done today to make my future life easier. Prepared the passenger side firewall pass-thru with some grommets so I can easily pass wires through to the cabin.



Also picked up the FR Manifold, the ceramic coat came out pretty good!



Also ended up picking up a Corksport FMIC and Crash Bar without their piping. It is pretty much the same size as the Treadstone TR11, so it should flow for ~560hp.

[andale927]

Got my corksport intercooler on. Really happy with the crash bar design. Nice to keep the tow hook. Plus the mounting holes are slotted so I can still fit an oil cooler between the AC condenser and the intercooler.


Picked up a new Bayson R grille and dropped it off along with the emblem and fog light covers to get riced out with some urethane paint and 2k clear.


Corksport intake manifold was going to be released in January, it was delayed to April and now its been delayed again to July... Going to go with a Damond ST intake manifold with port injection spacer. Gonna sell the 6th port and put my own PI kit together since it will end up costing less. Wish I did all this right the first time lol, but oh well.

Really unhappy with the JBR under-route kit. There are chunks of silicone flaking off on the inside of each of the 90degree bends. Given the change in intercooler and intake manifold I might just make my own with parts from siliconeintakes.com

It's gonna be under-route and invisible anyway...

[andale927]

Got a call from SP63 today... my engine is ready to ship. I literally sprinted around the block, my body is fucking ready.

I went ahead and made myself a base map for when everything is put together. Gonna post these on here in the hopes someone will stop me if I'm about to blow my shit up lol.

[andale927]

Picked up a TB Performance Traction Bar in hopes of reducing the killer wheel hop I get at the drag strip. Looks like a well made piece!


Also mocked up the cold side piping, I think I got it really close for not having an engine in the car lol. Hotside is next.

[Jeff23spl]

Do you run real slicks at the strip ? (I mean non DOT and non radial)
It was a pita to fit 15'' wheels in there but it helped a lot on my car.

[andale927]

No I don't, but you are the 2nd person to mention slicks as the solution. I think I'll finally invest in a set haha.

I have the Wilwood 6 piston kit, so I think I would have to go with 16" or maybe even 17" wheels.

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[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by andale927 No I don't, but you are the 2nd person to mention slicks as the solution. I think I'll finally invest in a set haha. I have the Wilwood 6 piston kit, so I think I would have to go with 16" or maybe even 17" wheels. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

You may get limited to radials ones in that case because most of non radials with a 26inch diameter are for 13-15inch rim. You may be more lucky than me but i checked with the major slick company and if you want larger rims, you need to go with radials models....

Despite radial slicks give a sticky compound, the tire side and weight remain more like a street tire and won't help as much for the wheel hop...

[andale927]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl You may get limited to radials ones in that case because most of non radials with a 26inch diameter are for 13-15inch rim. You may be more lucky than me but i checked with the major slick company and if you want larger rims, you need to go with radials models.... Despite radial slicks give a sticky compound, the tire side and weight remain more like a street tire and won't help as much for the wheel hop...

Just FYI, I found a total of two options that might work for us if you ever look for slicks in a larger wheel:

16" => https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17431/overview/

17" => https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnh-mhr172/overview/

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by andale927 Just FYI, I found a total of two options that might work for us if you ever look for slicks in a larger wheel: 16" => https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hoo-17431/overview/ 17" => https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnh-mhr172/overview/

The second one seem perfect! On m&h website, it say it is a new model. Maybe it wasn't released when i was looking for this.

The first one is DOT approved so i would expect the sidewall to be more rigid than a full racing slick. Theoretically, you could legally ride on the streets with it but not the M&H...

[andale927]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl The second one seem perfect! On m&h website, it say it is a new model. Maybe it wasn't released when i was looking for this. The first one is DOT approved so i would expect the sidewall to be more rigid than a full racing slick. Theoretically, you could legally ride on the streets with it but not the M&H...

Yeah looks like it! The d.o.t approval is actually referring to the racing class, neither of them are street legal.

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[andale927]

Finally making some progress. Got my speed back with engine/tranny bolted in, work done by a local, huge thank you to Red Knuth. If anyone in Chicago is looking for someone local to work on their Mazdaspeed PM me and I will share his contact info.


Got the oil feed installed, had to remove the alternator to install a M12 to 4AN fitting and line which kind of sucked.



Changed my mind on the color of the valve cover so wasted some more money on a replacement coated Illusion Cherry by ITG Engineering.



And the ST manifold is ready to install as soon as I get my DI injectors back from SP63.



Ordered a bunch of extra junk (OEM Exh studs, Injector O-Rings, fluids etc.) as well, want to be prepared to finish most of the work this coming weekend.

[andale927]

So close I can taste it...




Everything went smoothish. I attempted to bolt in the manifold and turbo as a single assembly but it turned out to be impossible. Ended up removing the wastegate and compressor housing to get it on.

Got a pretty short laundry list of items before I'll start it:
1.) Turbo Upper coolant line
2.) Oil feed
3.) Downstream O2 Sensor
4.) Bolt up Exhaust Downpipe <=> Catback connection
5.) Clutch slave line - Left the seal in the old slave and threw it away.... Awaiting delivery from edge.
6.) Fix dipstick - Not fully seated, I think I have the relocate bracket installed incorrectly.
7.) Install cold side piping
8.) Install Intake
9.) Fill coolant
10.) Drain gas tank - I don't wanna run 8-9 month old E30 blend... I know it's probably fine but I can't do it lol.
11.) Start the bish

On a side note, I really love the Earl's speed-seal PTFE hose and stainless fittings.

[shaneski]

It's looking clean, almost go time.

[andale927]

Got everything buttoned up and started the car and drove it today.

Running into extremely persistent part throttle KR. It pretty much pegs the knock sensor at 8 under any load or rpm.







I looked over everything for anything which could possibly be making mechanical noise but didn't find anything... The engine itself does vibrate pretty damn hard, but I haven't heard of anyone having KR issues with a BSD.

Anyone have any ideas?

[andale927]

Got everything buttoned up and started the car and drove it today.

Running into extremely persistent part throttle KR. It pretty much pegs the knock sensor at 8 under any load or rpm.







I looked over everything for anything which could possibly be making mechanical noise but didn't find anything... The engine itself does vibrate pretty damn hard, but I haven't heard of anyone having KR issues with a BSD.


So I went ahead and checked the spark plugs, they are all at .026" where I left them. They are all white, but logged AFRs are good. Would timing being off cause this?

[andale927]

Also the timing spark advance is off by ~6 degrees compared to commanded...

[Fstrnyou]

"Commanded" or timing table value?

If there is KR, you need to subtract the KR value from the timing table value to get actual timing. There may be other timing corrections at play as well. Like BAT v ECT timing correction.

NVM. I see now the timing should have been ~34.2 instead of the logged 43 degrees advance.
You may want to go through all you timing tables and timing corrections to make sure there isn't a conflict.

I had no such issues with my BSD.

[Jeff23spl]

When you have knock you may not look at ''no knock'' table
There is other factors added to the tables. i think the ecm keep looking to find the highest timing it can get for efficiency in closed loop....

Do you hear the knock of just see the reading? Are you sure the sensor has been carefully installed and connected ? It is hard to look at but i would double check first. I would expect a cel if the sensor is open circuit and pick up noise but....maybe???

It can be so much things with a new engine.....Have you started a bit to initially charge the oil pump before it fire up ?
Is your pistons skirt can contact the oil jets ?



Did you got a long bloc or a short one assembled yourself ?

[andale927]

Thanks for the advice guys, all of my timing tables match each other. I don't hear any knock, just see the reading on the sensor. I'll double check on the sensor resistance along with physically feeling if it is loose or something... May pull the intake manifold to retorque it. I did prime the oil system before first startup.

The longblock was built by SP63. I sincerely hope there is no squirter to piston contact given how many blocks they have built...

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[whatsabrooklyn]

i'm excited for this build, keep us posted.

[andale927]

I checked the CAS and it was off by a little more than a quarter tooth, which is only about 1.5 degrees. I double checked all the motor mounts and isolated the cold pipe that was hitting the oil filter housing.

I went for an extended drive and everything feels amazing, the BSD and lightened flywheel make it so rev happy lol. There was no change in KR, but it happens in a very isolated load region. I think I'm just not going to worry about it and attempt to tune it out.

My only concern is how the ECU will react if I increase the offsets in the region enough to get rid of the KR. The logic will probably still advance timing until the point of knock at times and won't be able to pull it back if I tune out the KR in the region. If I don't touch the offsets drivability will suffer because of how much timing its pulling... Maybe just decrease the max timing that it can pull in the region to 3-4 degrees and reduce the multiplier in that area as well.

I bought a piezoelectric guitar pickup, when I get time I'll attempt to isolate the source of the KR, but not for a few weeks.

[Fstrnyou]

Also, have you tried putting in any E85 to see if the KR changes?
If there's race gas in your area, that should work too.

[andale927]

I got the downpipe situation fixed on Saturday, no effect on the KR.

Also got started tuning, it's so much damn fun! Plus no waiting on revisions lol. Pretty much have the fuel curve dialed in for the areas I am currently touching, should be perfect with the next revision. Got a 93 basemap dialed in and jumped straight to an E50 mix.



Boost isn't hitting quite where I want it, but this is still with pretty mild VVT and very low timing. I need to check out the wastegate preload, not getting much reaction from increasing WGDC (Above run is hitting ~30WGDC at redline and only hit 1 more psi than 0 WGDC). I currently have about 7mm of preload, how much are other people running with the EFR kit?

[Clintb3astwood]

Sick build man! whats the Max power you can make on a 6th port kit?

[Fstrnyou]

Originally Posted by andale927 I got the downpipe situation fixed on Saturday, no effect on the KR. Also got started tuning, it's so much damn fun! Plus no waiting on revisions lol. Pretty much have the fuel curve dialed in for the areas I am currently touching, should be perfect with the next revision. Got a 93 basemap dialed in and jumped straight to an E50 mix. Boost isn't hitting quite where I want it, but this is still with pretty mild VVT and very low timing. I need to check out the wastegate preload, not getting much reaction from increasing WGDC (Above run is hitting ~30WGDC at redline and only hit 1 more psi than 0 WGDC). I currently have about 7mm of preload, how much are other people running with the EFR kit?

You typically won't see much change in boost the first 20-30% of WGDC. Keep bumping it up 5% each pull until you find your happy place.

Originally Posted by Clintb3astwood Sick build man! whats the Max power you can make on a 6th port kit?

Depends on the injector size.

[andale927]

Thanks for the WGDC advice, that was the case. Unfortunately I've run into other issues so I put making more power on hold.

The engine has been burning oil since day one, I thought I was imagining things because it was so intermittent

Under high engine vacuum (during decel) I get a pretty sizable amount of smoke out of the tailpipe. It is worse whenever the car is on a steep grade and whenever I am braking to a stop. It burns zero oil at idle or under boost.

I started looking into the issue today and I am pretty sure that it is a valve stem seal. All of my intake valves look brand new except for one on cylinder 4:


Other cylinders:


Do you guys think I am diagnosing this correctly, or could it be something else?

Compression tested good at 198, 197, 191, 200

[shaneski]

Not sure what EFR's are like but my ball bearing Precision and others that run them are known for doing the same thing due to the oil restrictor pill they come with being too big since these engines run high oil pressure. Put a smaller one on as my tuner suggested and been fine since.

Journal bearing turbos might be different in what they need though. But since there is oil in one cylinder more than likely valve guide or seal.