Bailey (Hook802 build)

[Hook802]

June 2015: Picked up an unmolested Liquid Silver Metallic MS3 with only 17,000 miles. 2nd owner,older guy, had to sell because "wife didn't like to drive standard". Sweet. Drove 12 hours total in 2 days to pick her up. I named her Bailey after the sweet girl at the credit union.

Day I got her:


With my old mx-3:



Cheesin:

[Hook802]

First mod was a COBB rear motor mount. Super easy, and made one hell of a difference. Shifts better, less torque steer, feels smoother rowing through gears.



Next was a JBR TIP and SRI. Talk about a tight fit. There were a few beers drank and several cuss words during the install. The sound alone is worth it. It now sounds like a proper turbo car. And the BPV noise is quite pronounced. I see no reason to do a BOV. There Definitely is a power gain too.

Next is a COBB AP. Scored off of Jeoje. We'll see how a OTS tune will do me until I get real serious with mods.

[802MS3]

Hit me up next time you install something!

[Hook802]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Hit me up next time you install something!

Sure thing! I'd like to meet other mazdaspeed guys. Who else is around Burlington/VT on here? @802MS3

[AwAfrican]

Install some upgraded hpfp internals before you do Sri/tip! My recommendation is auto tech. The genpu's don't tolerate intakes without internals well...power mod other than the access port that is your next mod for sure.
As for bov our cars function better with bpv and our stock one will generally hold up to 20psi of boost so until you're at the fmic stage not really worth upgrading.

[SofaKingAwesome]

inb4madefunofforcarname

[Hook802]

Originally Posted by AwAfrican Install some upgraded hpfp internals before you do Sri/tip! My recommendation is auto tech. The genpu's don't tolerate intakes without internals well...power mod other than the access port that is your next mod for sure. As for bov our cars function better with bpv and our stock one will generally hold up to 20psi of boost so until you're at the fmic stage not really worth upgrading.

I've already got the TIP and SRI installed! Is the fueling system different on the gen2? And the car really can't handle a full intake reliably on the stock fuel pump? Must be that bad boy is pushed near it's limit from the factory. Can you monitor it with the AP with a fuel pressure gauge, or the AFR? Don't get me wrong, I plan on doing the HPFP internals next. Just curious. And A forged BPV will be in the future when things get serious. Thanks for the input.

[AwAfrican]

Yes the stock can be that bad, on a car to car basis... Fuel system is the same between gen not sure where the issue is. I ran Sri on my car without issue for 20k however when I did start monitoring fuel pressure with the ap it was close ( should always been >1600psi when wot). Get those internals in sooner rather than later

[SofaKingAwesome]

Originally Posted by Hook802 I've already got the TIP and SRI installed! Is the fueling system different on the gen2? And the car really can't handle a full intake reliably on the stock fuel pump? Must be that bad boy is pushed near it's limit from the factory. Can you monitor it with the AP with a fuel pressure gauge, or the AFR? Don't get me wrong, I plan on doing the HPFP internals next. Just curious. And A forged BPV will be in the future when things get serious. Thanks for the input.

Is that to go with the forged pistons?

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by SofaKingAwesome Is that to go with the forged pistons?

Must be...someone didn't read the welcome email lol

[Hook802]

For some reason I thought This corksport BPV was forged. I now realize that doesn't make sense.

CORKSPORT Mazdaspeed MZR Bypass Valve

[SofaKingAwesome]

Originally Posted by Hook802 For some reason I thought This corksport BPV was forged. I now realize that doesn't make sense. CORKSPORT Mazdaspeed MZR Bypass Valve

I assumed you were talking about a Forge brand BPV, now it's even funnier really.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

[AwAfrican]

Lol so much win / fail at the same time

[Hook802]

Picked up a V2 AP from @jeoje; Just downloaded the OTS Stage 1 JBR intake Stratified map. The car is running nice now. The tune is noticeably better. I'm gonna mount it a little different. HPFP internals will be next.

Maps:
Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS Off The Shelf (S-OTS) Maps [Stratified Mazda S-OTS Maps] - It's Free! : Stratified Automotive Controls

[AwAfrican]

Originally Posted by Hook802 Picked up a V2 AP from @jeoje; Just downloaded the OTS Stage 1 JBR intake Stratified map. The car is running nice now. The tune is noticeably better. I'm gonna mount it a little different. HPFP internals will be next. Maps: Stratified MazdaSpeed / Mazda MPS Off The Shelf (S-OTS) Maps [Stratified Mazda S-OTS Maps] - It's Free! : Stratified Automotive Controls

You do realize that "stage 1" is internals and intake right???

[Hook802]

Originally Posted by AwAfrican You do realize that "stage 1" is internals and intake right???

The HPFP is next. Thanks for the concern, but according to Stratified stage one SHOULD be fine. I'll do a WOT while monitoring the pressure. If it drops I'll revert until I get the autotech internals. Thanks, I know you guys are looking out for me and I appreciate it.

Stage1 S-OTS Calibration Notes
- These calibrations are designed to run within the limits of the OEM high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). However on some vehicles the demands on the fuel system will exceed what the OEM HPFP can supply. This is characterized by fuel pressure drops below the 1600psi level during wide open throttle (WOT) driving. If this is experienced, it is recommended that an adequate HPFP be installed before proceeding and running an OEM calibration until then.
- These calibrations are designed to work with a stock or at most an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system.
- These calibrations employ a load/torque targeting logic and boost levels will vary depending on environmental conditions in order to achieve a consistent torque output at all times. The boost levels will vary around 16psi +/- 2psi.


Stage2 S-OTS Calibration Notes
- These calibrations are designed to run with an UPGRADED high pressure fuel pump (HPFP).
- These calibrations are designed to work with an aftermarket exhaust system that has a single catalytic converter. Running without any catalytic converters may cause uncontrollable boost conditions that will cause the ECU to cut power; especially in colder weather.
- These calibrations employ a load/torque targeting logic and boost levels will vary depending on environmental conditions in order to achieve a consistent torque output at all times. The boost levels will vary around 18psi +/- 2psi.

[Vansquish]

FYI, you need to actually datalog to make sure that your HPFP pressure isn't dropping during WOT pulls. The refresh rate on the AP is too slow for you to see the drops when they occur 90%+ of the time.

[Hook802]

No real updates, just my AP mount and Pics from my meetup with mazdagirl, in her speed6.













Notice my mx-3 up on jackstands. Timing belt excursion . Also notice how stock my car is externally. Not sure what I want to do yet. Maybe dip the rear bumper section/emblems. BUT plasti dipping is getting kinda old. I did a lot of it on my last car. Idk. I like the sleeper look, but I don't love being 100% stock on the outside. Maybe I'll dip the rims black. Hit me with ideas!

[AwAfrican]

Where in Ontario are you? And yay AP!

sent via tapafail!

[Hook802]

She's in Green Valley. Like 2.5 hours from me in Vermont.

[AwAfrican]

Ahh didn't see that yours want Ontario plated as well, that gets you about 3.5 hrs from me

sent via tapafail!

[Hook802]

I installed leds all over. (except for the fogs)



And I have headlight issues! My passenger side headlight is full of moisture and the bulb is out. Gonna do some research into good options here. I'd do aftermarket as long as they don't look ricey. As far as the bulb goes... I'll probably put in some 6000k's and then match the foglights with 6000k leds. I was appalled when I read "Your headlights are not serviceable, headlight service must be done by a certified mazda dealer" . HIDs aren't rocket science. But it does look like a pita to get in there. Open for suggestions here!

[802MS3]

On the gen1's, the ballast is easily replaceable and readily found used on ebay for less than $100. Similar thing happened to me, moisture got in and shorted the ballast out.

[Hook802]

This is moisture on the inside of the lens

[Hook802]

Masked off:



Peeling:



Much better. (ditched the 3 aswell)



Ass Looking good:



And took care of the gawdy fog light trim:

[Hook802]

Brought my car to my buddies place for a little barnyard fabrication. Cut out the rear resonator and welded in a straight pipe. Not pretty, but sounds nice and only costed $13. A little louder, deeper, and growly. Minimal drone in the cabin, sounds awesome from behind.

My buddy Corey with his masterpiece:



The Removed resonator:




Video of the exhaust unhooked after the first resonator. So turbo/downpipe/cat/resonator/open:




I want an axelback or an open muffler next. We'll see.

[Hook802]

So like @802MS3; figured, my ballast is shorted out from the water. I literally poured water out of the ballast connection. So I've got a replacement for 60$ ordered up from ebay:
OEM 10 14 Mazda 3 Xenon Ballast HID Control Unit Module Computer ECU Box | eBay

I need to disassemble my headlight and reseal it. That will happen shortly. Pictures of the BS process to even get to the damn thing:






And a video of my ballast findings. I think you will find this comical:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BiM...ature=youtu.be

[Hook802]

So after fubaring my original head light.... I bought another leaky one of ebay. And sealed externally. I found some good marine grade clear sealant, and slathered the joint. Worked great. So far no rain storms have got any water in the light.

Sealant: (can't see it at all on the car)


I also hit the ballast connector with some dieletric grease, and some sealant around the plug



Lights working!


Then I did some more dipping

Front (badge and fogs)



Back (lower bumper and badge)

[Hook802]

Had a few buddies over yesterday to help with the HPFP internals



Everything went smooth, no issues. My intake went back in a lot easier the second time as one unit! Fuel pressure is rock solid.



Now it's downpipe time! I've got a 3" catless UR waiting to go in.

Big thanks to @802MS3; and @802ANTHONY;

[Hook802]

So I've busy with school and a new job. But I did get my downpipe in!
It was quite the PITA. My buddies lift and variety of tools made it possible.
We had quite the myriad of swivels, extensions and sockets to get the stock downpipe out.
After that it was simple. Except! the backyard resonator delete bit me. The fitment wasn't exactly right and it put strain on the whole exhaust. Causing various leaks at joints. I had Kale's custom weld me a proper piece that fit just right. The exhaust sounds great. Now I just need a good catback. But honestly the resonator delete and downpipe make the stock muffler sound quite well. And still minimal drone.


Then I got a freektune OTS map. It is running mint. And I'm only on the first revision of the tune. No tweaking yet. Tuning that in will be the next thing. Pics:

My buddies sweet garage:




Old and new: A bit of a diet!

[Mooseknuckler]

Looks good man! Any over boost on that freektune?

[Hook802]

Sorry for the late response. No overboosting at all. It is rock solid at 20.

[bazekc]

I just recently picked up my liquid silver genpu as well, might have to steal some of your cosmetic ideas.

Loving the build so far! I have SRI+TIH, HPFP internals, GrimmSpeed EBCS, v2 Cobb AP on 1+ OTS tune, and a Forge BPV v1.

M2 catless DP is on the way and then I'm going to hook up a vented and sealed catch can.

What's next for your build any idea how much you're putting to the wheels on 93?