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| 2010 MS3 - Build Diaries Genpu - General Build Threads/Diaries. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I come from a list of the following cars: 1996 Chevy Blazer 2004 Mazda RX-8 - High flow cat + exhaust 1994 Mazda RX-7 - Stock twins with bolt ons and 12psi ~300rwhp 2005 Pontiac GTO - Headers/cam/exhaust 423rwhp 2000 Stage 3 Audi S4 - K04 turbo updates, exhaust - 371awhp 1994 Mazda RX-7 - Streetport, Aspec 500r single turbo - 405rwhp And now my garage consists of: 2000 Mazda Miata 2012 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 In the 6 days that I've owned the car so far, I've done the following mods: Tint all around Ordered Cobb Short Ram Intake Ordered Cobb Turbo Inlet Pipes Ordered James Baron Racing Rear Motor Mount Chromoly 88 Durometer The new parts will get in Thursday so I'll do updates once I am working on the install and when I'm done. For now, here are some pictures: First picture in the garage: Removed the front plate within minutes: The morning after, the car went into the shop to get tint: That's it for now! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Cool shit man! Keep up the good work
__________________ 2006 Evolution IX RS ER Built 2.3l On jackstands awaiting parts |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What year did they change the exhaust tips. My 2010 looks different. Either way, keep it up!
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 Black Mica w/ Tech Package - Traded In 2014 Ford F150 FX4 Ecoboost - Current |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Should mods consisted of ap and internals first before inlet and Sri?
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score From what I've heard, you can have inlet and SRI without the AP and Internals. It's once you flash to a Stage 2 (once you have the AP) that you'll want to make sure you have your internals. But that is based upon my research. Here were some better pictures I was able to take today: |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bellisimo! Be prepared to wash it every week. That is why us WCP MS3 owners smirk at you. Not trying to be a dick, but I would avoid the word 'build'...unless you are pulling the motor and doing an engine 'build'. I could be wrong, but a better description of what you have now is 'modding' or 'bolt-ons'. This may be a 'build' thread in the Honda community, MSF kids play harder. Most 'build' threads here are because the owner pushed a tune of a perfectly good motor too far, ZZB. Take your time on mods, enjoy the car, learn it, love it. Mods are fun, but if you can't drive it like you stole it, it is just a trophy. As you will repeatedly be told and read, AP + CDFP internals...as soon as you can. AP opens the world to you. Your car past is pretty awesome, I would be happy with any of those. That Miata NB has got to be a blast, just have to put up with the gay jokes. Roll bar takes care of that. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^^ More like every day.
__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP |
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And don't worry, I started this build thread now with just "bolt ons" but you know that a true car enthusiast isn't going to stop at that. This is what my last "build" ended up as | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It's BEAUTIFUL! I've always loved that car. That was the best color too... it looks soooo nice in person.
__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You sound interested in doing things right. I would advocate getting a way to monitor fuel pressure to go with your intake, because some people do lose pressure with just an intake. Also, an oil catch can will hook you up long term by helping keep your valves clean. Probably sent from a toilet Also, to make sure all the short timers in here know, you can run upgraded fuel pump internals on stock tune. Probably sent from a toilet
__________________ it's fun to do bad things Last edited by jack_hammer; 11-11-2012 at 06:28 AM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Big things will happen with this car seeing how "simple" and cheaper it is to go big turbo. I just have to remember that I've owned this brand new car for a week as of today, and I've already modded it haha. I'm hoping the SRI/TIP/RMM will hold me over for at least a couple of months. |
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Your still going to have to wash it alot. Will watch, and learn. | |
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![]() Luckily, I have the Miata too so I will be driving that if it rains here so I can try to keep the Speed clean. | |
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I am basically at same spot you are with 3 month old '12 MS3 SRI/TIP/RMM/RSB/SSP/AP (except I have no experience)...but I have the (maybe false) comfort of an AP, and I log a few times a week, with an eye on the hpfp pressures. Little peace of mind. I have my Autotech hpfp internals sitting ready to go in, just need to get my tool/bench vise/backup situation figured out, and build up the guts to just dooo it. You may already know, but avoid any WOTs starting from less than 3500 RPM, that is where the pooch gets screwed. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think the general consensus is 3000rpm... not 3500.
__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP |
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I didn't want that with my next car so that's why I picked up the Mazdaspeed. It is a nice car, but I'm going to be using my Miata and Speed3 as my DD, just depends on which one I feel like driving that day I guess. As far as plans, I'll end up going BT sooner or later, but again, I only have now 120 or so miles on the car haha. | |
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I agree totally on the GTO worry part, I do not want to have to baby a car and stress about where I park and who parks next to me. Well I do now, just because it is new, but not like I would stress over a $40k car, or a vintage. Last edited by Hush; 11-11-2012 at 07:08 PM. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm on a downward spiral... Cobb AccessPort just purchased |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds upward to me.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Wondering if I should install these mods coming in on stages to really see what the affect they have on the car. For example, everyone says the RMM makes a world of difference. Then I could install my SRI/TIP and then the AP with pre-loaded tune. But at the same time, I don't know if I could really be that patient with all the parts just sitting there staring at me waiting to be installed. |
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Install RMM, easy and you will feel the difference in shifts and traction. Hide SRI/TIP in box on top shelf, wait for the AP, Mate AP to ECU and use COBBs OTS stock tune map, just to see where you are starting from. Take some base WOT logs, reference for later so you can compare as you add parts and change maps. Note that you should get at least a hundred miles after any map or part change before logging, so you ECU adapts to changes. Then, say a week later, SRI/TIP, flash OTS stage 1 Map with SRI/TIP setup. But, like you may be, I was impatient and did AP after intake. I regret, because I did not get to see the benefit of intake or compare to stock setup. I don't think you can do it wrong, either way. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Installing too many miss at once can make life difficult if your car runs into problems after install. But seeing how unrelated a rmm is to an intake, you can do both at the same time. Or don't. Who the fuck cares? Lol... It's nothing worth debating. monitor fuel pressure until you get the internals installed. The rest is just ground work. Probably sent from a toilet
__________________ it's fun to do bad things |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hardhitter, Congrats on your purchase and mods so far. Good to have another local(ish) MSF freak around. I liked adding the parts a bit at a time, but agree that RMM should be 1st. It is an excellent and easy mod that changes shit. SRI/TIP are pretty much combined. AP is priceless. WOT logs for baseline FTW! Cheers, G
__________________ 2008 Toyota Prius Grand Touring. Slow, no mods. Saving $600/month - Fuck off you judgmental Assholes. I miss the fuck out of my speed3 way more than the mustang. Alas I'm waiting for the next one. 2014 Mustang GT Premium, Deep Impact Blue. Boss 302 Steering wheel (Alcantara), SR Shift bracket, Roush Axelback -sold 2010 ms3 Black Mica Tech Package -sold Internals are easy. Who the fuck thought it would be a good idea to point the genjuan's valve cover recirc tube at the EGR? “It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.” --Aristotle |
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This^^^ My stock internal could'nt keep up with CS intake+TIP Stage 1 tune, it started to dip somewhere in the 1300 on wot Hit up jp@edgeautosport; they haz best deal on autotechs!! Last edited by 3dpilot; 11-14-2012 at 12:16 PM. Reason: stock | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So the intake/tip/rmm should be getting here today and I wanted to take some precautions. If I install the intake/tip and just drive the car normally without WOT pulls, will I run into FP issues? The other thing is, once I get my AP (comes in on the 20th) if I keep my stock tune, won't it be safer to stay on the stock tune until I get internals than the flash to a stage 1? |
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or you could just wait...
__________________ it's fun to do bad things | ||
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Haha but who wants to wait when there are mods sitting on the shelf?!? Anyway, my only concern is how everyone is just up and arms over internals. I can see getting mods and putting them on without an AP to log and see how your car is reacting to them, but I would hope that even something as minor as a SRI/TIP combo wouldn't lead to problems. I'm thinking the problems are coming where the User is loading Stage 1 maps for these mods and the internals can't hold up to it. If the car sticks on the stock map, then I don't see how the stock internals would have trouble unless Mazda has tuned it to be faulty from the beginning. Basically, in short, I want to install my mods and not flash to a Stage 1 tune. I will not be going WOT until my AP comes in next week so I can log and check how the FP looks like with these mods. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It's like Christmas in November! |
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Re: hpfp and AP, comes down to how comfortable you are with unknowns. Hpfp is a known issue, all you can do is educate yourself and use best judgement. I bet most have done intakes before hpfp or AP without issue. Keeping out of boost, you are safe. Horse beaten. Someone should be able to chime in, but I have read of COBB's intakes tend to throw a code on stock ECU (handy that they make the AP, eh?). In other words, COBB intakes only like COBB AP maps. | |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score AP just got delivered. I think I'm going to install the SRI/TIP/RMM tomorrow and log my FP with the stock map and see what everything looks like. |
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__________________ | 2012 CWP | Cobb AP + AT Internals | HTP 3" Intake | 91oct + DO WMI (D07, 50/50) + 3gal E85 | UR Test Pipe | cp-e TMIC | JBR Trilogy, OCC, EGR Block, SSB | TBC Bypass | Freektuned - 313/351 - Stock DP | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If you install your intake stuff first then AP, you should flash the stage 1 SRI/TIP, and not the stock map. You want to load the map that matches your setup, or ECU will not know why it is getting so much dang air. Have fun, post pics! |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Took the time to install the SRI/TIP today. Taking everything out was a big PITA, but then once everything was out, it literally took minutes putting everything on and then back together again. Anyway, I haven't flashed a Stage 1 map yet, but will do that before I start driving the car more. I'll make sure to log and see how everything is looking. Something I noticed though is that my auto up/down on my window doesn't work anymore. Anyone else have the same problem? Didn't have any "during" pictures so the end result will have to do. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Just flashed the 'Stage1 + SF + TIH 91 v210' |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The windows is because your battery was unhooked. Give it some miles and they will work again. Looks good. I would suggest getting internals next. But you should be fine without them for now. You can step on the gas a little before 3k the car is fine. Have fun and enjoy the new mods. I give it until Tuesday, you'll probably buy some mods from edge considering they have a huge blowout Black Friday sale.
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Window motor out is weird - loose or blown fuse? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Every time you unhook the battery you have to reteach the auto down function. To do so just hold the window up button for 5 seconds with the window up, then roll it down and hold the button down for 5 seconds and that should do it.
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