Project Craigspeed, the ultimate budget speed

[satisfied]

So, once my wife learns how to internet I'm sure she'll chime in here. Give it some time.

2 weeks ago, we bought my wife this car...




As predicted, she is not leaving it stock. We are also saving money for other investments. She's a girl so she likes those buy-sell-trade things on facebook, etsy, and other such colorful nonsense that makes women think a school locker makes an ideal turkey platter.

So here is the idea. Every 12 hours we run a search for parts for this car. If we find one of what we need, regardless of brand (depending) we get it. Total including gas calculated at the end. So let's get to the potatoes here.

Prices listed are what we expect to pay new. Goal is to be overpowered for underbudget. If you have something for sale in good condition for a good price, PM me!

1. xVersatuner $559.00 $550.00
1a. xCS HPFP internals $391.00 CS HPFP internals $400.00
2. xIntake $166.77 $280.00
3. xOBX Test Pipe $94.00 Catted DP Corksport $600.00
4. BPV/BOV/RCV (whatever you want to call it) $200-300
5. FMIC Core (already have pipes TR6 probably $300.00
6. Koni Yellows/Swift Springs or similar setup $800
7. Enkei RPF1's 17x9 +45 or similar $900-1000.00
8. Hankook RS3's RE71Rs or similar 255's $700-1000.00
9. ?????
10. Profit
11. xCPE RMM Local $80.00 RMM $160-200.00


One of the headlights had condensation... So we did the heatgun, take apart, then tried to reseal with black RTV. It still fogs over, so there went another $100.00 for a new housing...




Girl car, so purple lugs. We had an amazon gift card, so free!



Found an intake local.

Thanks bud!



Parting shots.




Light housing came in. Packed that fucker with the nissan rubber glue, pressed, once it cooled I hit it with a bead of black RTV to seal the seams' seam. It holds water. After a nice blow dryer, it's nice, dry, cool, and clean. If it gets condensation, the problem is not the housing.



Oh joy, dropping the bumper and not even for an FMIC.

Big day.



Can't wait. Thursday ETA.

Also NO MOISTURE IN THE HEADLIGHT! No idea what to do about the old housing...



Thursday happened, and I got VT in. I wish people wouldn't send you a disc with drivers on it when that disc doesn't work and you have to download them anyway.

VT is fucking great. All in one log viewing, editing, DTC reading, what a luxury! Tuning each individual gear seems like it's going to lend to some pretty dialed in numbers once I get more comfortable. Already recorded one of those false knock events, scared me even though I kind of suspected it was false right off the bat. Worked with my wife on reading the logs which are a lot less user friendly than TunerStudio/MLV. Really cluttered unless you're trying to compare only 4 or five data points. Overall fantastic tuning system, I am thoroughly impressed! There was no 92 Octane tune, so we're using the 91 and can feel how conservative it is. Still feels artificially held back. Once we get those HPFP internals though, I'll feel better about changing some of the maps. Super stoked. Also, since the car is a 2010, apparently we only get OBDII checked for smog unless they suspect something... So that's great news.

Still stock, still rocking dealer plates.


(I think that's a bug flying around the front bumper...)


Found an RMM unused besides fondling from previous owner. $80.00 unknown durometer, don't care, it'll be better than stock!

As predicted WA state sales tax totally murdered the cost of the HPFP, pretty close to my $400.00 estimation. Splurged on Corksport because they're local, and all the claimed advantages got me.




Got the RMM, the mudflaps, the HPFP and the purple lugs on. I know everyone says it, but the 75 Duro RMM is what it should have come with from the factory. What a great difference. Reminds me of the massive benefit of the poly dogbone mount for the MKIV GTI.

Car $15,300 OTD

Headlight Housing $100.00
Nissan glue shit $16.00
Black RTV $6.00
Lugs $0
SRI $160.00 + $6.77(gas)
Versatuner $559.00
OBX Test Pipe $94.00
CPE RMM $80.00
Rok blokz mudflaps $84.99
CS HPFP Internals $391.00

Current total $1,591.76

Highest estimate of mod cost $5,030

[Mazdazilla6]

Welcome! Glad to see you getting VT, you'll love it. Also, you'll be much happier if you don't keep track of how much money you've spent on the car. I'd be a miserable sob if I actually took the time to count it up for myself.

[stockms3]

Hi, nice rides. Miatas always make me wish I was shorter.

Also, looks like you need an RMM. I may have a corksport for sale here shortly, which has barely any miles.

Originally Posted by Mazdazilla6 Welcome! Glad to see you getting VT, you'll love it. Also, you'll be much happier if you don't keep track of how much money you've spent on the car. I'd be a miserable sob if I actually took the time to count it up for myself.

I have made the mistake of trying to add it all up because I daily a 3 with 145k miles on the body and thought about selling both cars, and getting something a little nicer. However, after short consideration I figured I would be throwing too much money down the toilet. Might as well dump some more money and put a bnr s4 in there in a year or two.

[satisfied]

Counting is essential to measuring success empirically for myself. I do understand why one wouldn't want to, looks like you've put a lot of work and dollars into that speed 6.

[anavrinIV]

Autotech HPFP internals are $50 cheaper and have a much longer history of working perfectly. Boom $50 saved. And that's one that I'd buy new personally.

Wheels....TR Motorsports C3s will run you ~600 new instead of the RPF1s. They aren't quite as light (19lbs vs. 16) but will almost pay for an extra pair of tires. You'll need extended lugs and 5mm spacers either way so add that to the cost.

Leave the stock BPV alone. Save that money for something that matters.

[zenit]

Cheap test pipe over downpipe. Can be found for $50-75 locally or free.99 from 'nator folk.
Does a downpipe make a difference? Part 2

Stick with stock bpv for now. No immediate need, unless it's the cool sounds they make. Also a 'natorable.
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/for...-valve-147545/

Yellows have ALOT of compression damping, meaning it'll be a stiff ride quality. If this is a daily, non-racecar, consider the fsd's or oranges instead.

9" wheels are unnecessary for DD. The purpose already comes with 8", allowing for wide spectrum of good rubber. Unless your inner ricer needs those wheels, burn a set of tires of the stock wheels.

If this car is getting raced, re71's, hands down. Otherwise chose a big tread block tire with higher utqg, like the re760. You may need to look into a winter set of tires, too.

[CWP_MS3]

Doesn't seem like too much of a budget build to me. You could get equal or better results for way less. Just gotta shop correctly.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV Autotech HPFP internals are $50 cheaper and have a much longer history of working perfectly. Boom $50 saved. And that's one that I'd buy new personally.

CS internals are also $350 new. i don't know where that $400 comes from

[Bingo]

Back up a moment, where did you find headlight housings? I've been looking (gen won) but haven't had much luck.

[Djohns]

I have a JBR rmm and eibach springs I can post up if you're interested.

[stockms3]

Originally Posted by Bingo Back up a moment, where did you find headlight housings? I've been looking (gen won) but haven't had much luck.

From what I understand they don't sell lenses(if that's what you meant by housing) for gen one. You can buy a set of headlights for $210.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow CS internals are also $350 new. i don't know where that $400 comes from

Washington state sales tax. Shipping.

We have emissions. So race pipe is a no go. Yes, we COULD return to stock for emissions, but that's no fun.

17x9 is essential. The build may be budget, but it's what she wants.

The style of wheel could change, but so far she only has really liked the RPF1. RS3s vs RE71Rs is like butter vs margarine. I haven't noticed a difference, it'll be cheapest when it comes down to rubber.

The koni oranges vs yellows is a good argument, I may have to check that out.

[Bingo]

Originally Posted by stockms3 From what I understand they don't sell lenses(if that's what you meant by housing) for gen one. You can buy a set of headlights for $210. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Ya, my lenses are beyond repair, so I've been looking at gettin them replaced. I've check Rock Auto and eBay, where are they for $210?

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by Djohns I have a JBR rmm and eibach springs I can post up if you're interested.

Gotta wait for next payday, but they may be considered depending on condition.

Housings can be found on ebay pretty easy for the housing guy. Use search term parameters of BRAND MAZDA and CONDITION USED.

You'll find it!

[stockms3]

Originally Posted by Bingo Ya, my lenses are beyond repair, so I've been looking at gettin them replaced. I've check Rock Auto and eBay, where are they for $210?

I found them on Amazon. In reviews someone said that they fit mazdaspeed 3 just fine. They are for the 3.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by stockms3 I found them on Amazon. In reviews someone said that they fit mazdaspeed 3 just fine. They are for the 3. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

damn, those are cheap. i wish i could find cheap housing for my Tech package headlights.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by satisfied Gotta wait for next payday, but they may be considered depending on condition. Housings can be found on ebay pretty easy for the housing guy. Use search term parameters of BRAND MAZDA and CONDITION USED. You'll find it!

Both are in great condition. Rmm has roughly 30k if I remember, so she's all broken in so minimal vibes as far as JBR mounts go. Springs have less than 20k, I think those have around 15k on them. No rust, great condition.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by satisfied Washington state sales tax. Shipping. We have emissions. So race pipe is a no go. Yes, we COULD return to stock for emissions, but that's no fun. 17x9 is essential. The build may be budget, but it's what she wants. The style of wheel could change, but so far she only has really liked the RPF1. RS3s vs RE71Rs is like butter vs margarine. I haven't noticed a difference, it'll be cheapest when it comes down to rubber. The koni oranges vs yellows is a good argument, I may have to check that out.

how do they test emissions? If it's just OBD you'll pass with a racepipe no issue. Sniffer may be different, we only do OBD testing

[stockms3]

I actually can't find the exact pair I've found before. I will search again when I have a minute and verify the part numbers.

I spilled some shit on my headlights most likely brake fluid and they look like shit and developed tiny cracks.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV how do they test emissions? If it's just OBD you'll pass with a racepipe no issue. Sniffer may be different, we only do OBD testing

We get the pipe sniffer or sniffers if dual exhaust AND the OBD plug.

[Bingo]

Originally Posted by stockms3 I actually can't find the exact pair I've found before. I will search again when I have a minute and verify the part numbers. I spilled some shit on my headlights most likely brake fluid and they look like shit and developed tiny cracks. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Thanks, let me know. Because this is just a cosmetic problem, I don't have much interest in crappy looking knock-offs, so I'd like to be sure the lights look, fit, and function just like OEM. My lights have what I believe is clear coat overspray from when the bumper was replaced.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by satisfied Washington state sales tax. Shipping. We have emissions. So race pipe is a no go. Yes, we COULD return to stock for emissions, but that's no fun. 17x9 is essential. The build may be budget, but it's what she wants. The style of wheel could change, but so far she only has really liked the RPF1. RS3s vs RE71Rs is like butter vs margarine. I haven't noticed a difference, it'll be cheapest when it comes down to rubber. The koni oranges vs yellows is a good argument, I may have to check that out.

Just for reference my friend with a Juan bought the orange and he regrets not going yellow. He says ride quality is poor and they are very noisey especially in the winter.

[broda]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV how do they test emissions? If it's just OBD you'll pass with a racepipe no issue. Sniffer may be different, we only do OBD testing

+1. I only have a cat on my downpipe and I passed mine without problem.

[KiwiFlavor]

Lmk if u want to buy a test pipe. I got one sitting in my storage.

[anavrinIV]

Originally Posted by satisfied We get the pipe sniffer or sniffers if dual exhaust AND the OBD plug.

My understanding is the second cat is only for warmup emissions. Ask around in the Nator Washington forum and see what other people are running and whether they pass or fail

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by anavrinIV My understanding is the second cat is only for warmup emissions. Ask around in the Nator Washington forum and see what other people are running and whether they pass or fail

CS already confirmed their long catted DP passes, so that's our ONLY option there. Further, the chance of finding that used is around 0. I would probably take used auto tech HPFP internals, but I've known of cork sport for a while now and really like what they do.

[Bingo]

Originally Posted by satisfied CS already confirmed their long catted DP passes, so that's our ONLY option there. Further, the chance of finding that used is around 0. I would probably take used auto tech HPFP internals, but I've known of cork sport for a while now and really like what they do.

Keep an open mind when it comes to part brands when you do your research. I love corksport and am very happy with their intake and TMIC, but CS isn't perfect. Ever heard of CS cams? If you haven't there's a reason. Point is, no company is perfect or even best for that matter. Some companies make certain parts better than others. When it comes to AT v.s. CS HPFP internals, to my knowledge there is no discernible difference.

[satisfied]

I understand that entirely and appreciate the input, my preference to CS also comes from the fact that they're 2 hours drive away from home. If I have a parts fitment or other issue it could conceivably be resolved the very same day!

[stockms3]

Originally Posted by Bingo Thanks, let me know. Because this is just a cosmetic problem, I don't have much interest in crappy looking knock-offs, so I'd like to be sure the lights look, fit, and function just like OEM. My lights have what I believe is clear coat overspray from when the bumper was replaced.

I'm an idiot! If you have a sport the regular mazda 3 headlights will work. They were the same in mazda 3 and mazdaspeed 3 sport. They list a different part number for a Grand Touring. For example, mazda 3/speed sport headlight from online mazda parts store is $230 and the grand touring is $760 a piece. I couldn't not find anything remotely close to $200 for a pair gt.

So, um I guess I will have to buy a cheaper headlight just for the lens.


For future reference:
Mazda 3 04-09 and Mazda speed 3 sport 07-09 BN8F510L0E (cheap)
Mazda 3 and speed 3 GT0 7-09 (equipped with HIDs) BN8G51041E (so expensive it will make you ass bleed)

[zenit]

Originally Posted by Djohns Just for reference my friend with a Juan bought the orange and he regrets not going yellow. He says ride quality is poor and they are very noisey especially in the winter.

Your friend is mistaken, going to yellows will make the ride quality even harsher, and do nothing about the noise, since they share the same internal design.

Also, unless they squeak a little bit when it's really cold, there isn't anything in those struts to cause noise. It's likely something else.

Originally Posted by satisfied 17x9 is essential. The build may be budget, but it's what she wants. The style of wheel could change, but so far she only has really liked the RPF1. RS3s vs RE71Rs is like butter vs margarine. I haven't noticed a difference, it'll be cheapest when it comes down to rubber.

RE: 17x9 - Lol. Okay. They're are far more worthwhile places to spend that money, imo.

RE: test pipe - swap the test pipe in, and swap back if you don't pass emissions (which I highly doubt will be an issue). It's not a hard part to swap.

Between not buying the wheels and downpipe, you could easily afford a medium sized turbo (I.e. CS or BNR) and supporting mods.

Also, what is the point of doing all this?

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by zenit Your friend is mistaken, going to yellows will make the ride quality even harsher, and do nothing about the noise, since they share the same internal design. Also, unless they squeak a little bit when it's really cold, there isn't anything in those struts to cause noise. It's likely something else.

Interesting. I'll be sure to let him know even though I know that means a project on our hands figuring out the noise haha.

[zenit]

Originally Posted by Djohns Interesting. I'll be sure to let him know even though I know that means a project on our hands figuring out the noise haha.

It's nearly always end links or top hats.

[Djohns]

Originally Posted by zenit It's nearly always end links or top hats.

Gotta be top hats then. We've already replaced his endlinks.

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by zenit Also, what is the point of doing all this?

Things and or stuff.

Trust me, I know how to put money away for better power.



This car was made for 10k, including car, three turbos, two manifolds, the setups, charge piping tuning to make it all happen and supporting mods. If it was pure speed, it would probably end up like the miata. If it was pure show, well it wouldn't be allowed in the driveway. It's neither.


I also know how to swap test pipes for cats, that's not the idea here. The idea is to make the car fast, and semi-aesthetic for the least amount of money while maintaining decent build quality, durability, and daily drivability.

There isn't a logical goal to the build. It's a girl's daily driver. You need to stop thinking we're going to break dynos for less than 5k, or bring home stance wars golden dildo of approval for $400.00. We're just going to make a mazdaspeed 3 more of a mazdaspeed 3.

So maybe title change to: Project Craigspeed : 'The ultimate budget speed in some Asian girl's opinion' to avoid further confusion.

RE: Headlights

I've never been happier to NOT have the top of the line headlights. Those tech package headlights are expensive as fuck.

[Gerbilo]

Originally Posted by satisfied CS already confirmed their long catted DP passes, so that's our ONLY option there.

I don't have any actual evidence of this, but I can't imagine the CS catted long DP would pass emissions but their race pipe with a stock DP/cat wouldn't. I could very possibly be wrong, but it might be worth looking into considering it's significantly less expensive, even new.

[satisfied]

Originally Posted by Gerbilo I don't have any actual evidence of this, but I can't imagine the CS catted long DP would pass emissions but their race pipe with a stock DP/cat wouldn't. I could very possibly be wrong, but it might be worth looking into considering it's significantly less expensive, even new.

I agree, it's tricky, and your method is QUITE a bit cheaper, The way I see it, it's an expensive part super critical to allowing a turbo to breathe. Might want to just buy it once, and have it work. If we take it to the inspection station and it doesn't work right after install (provided my target AFR isn't 12:1 @ 3600 RPM [it won't be]) , I can't imagine CS giving me a huge hassle on returning it and trying a different option. Since emissions are such tricky business and this isn't a car that should need as much attention as the race car I just want a solution that's going to work for all intents and purposes.

[Djohns]

Asian girl you say...?

[Hamatchi]

Originally Posted by satisfied RE: Headlights I've never been happier to NOT have the top of the line headlights. Those tech package headlights are expensive as fuck.

Right there with you. I just got a 2010 with the Tech pack but basic lights and manual seats. I learned my lesson with Audi Bi Xenon bulbs at $250 a pop.

[MS3Shadow]

Ours use D2S bulbs and they are not that expensive to replace.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[MSP6]

IMHO, take it for what it is but I got my test pipe off of craigslist and Nator'd it (gutted it) in like 15-20 minutes with a mallet and a long ass screwdriver. Think it cost me $40? For $40 and 95% of the power gains from a full DP its worth taking the 10 minutes to swap it out for inspection. Time it with your oil change and no time lost.

At the very least I would do it for the first year which gives you time to source the other goodies you want and puts off buying a new, long catted DP at $4-500+.

Full 3" intake, Cobb AP bought used from here for $400 or so total
Test pipe on CL for $40
Autotechs new for $300


100% E85 and 300+ whp all day every day for about $700 bucks. To maximize the stock turbo this is really all you need. If its not meant to be flashy and not meant to be full race car this is all you need. What you WANT is another story, heh.

(Bought a CP-e Stage 2 RMM used off of here as well but its not power related so I left it out)