Speedfreak44's fully bolted k04 journey

[speedfreak44]

Final goal: Fully bolted, stock axleback, BT on pump 93.
-------------------
Progress...

10-12-15: k04 stock tmic, nator dp/rp, 3" intake vdyno 272/319
10-13-15: acquired cs tmic
10-15-15: acquired oem intake manifold
11-03-15: dropped off intake manifold for pnp and vtcs delete
11-04-15: k04, cs tmic, nator dp/rp, 3" intake vdyno 277/329
11-09-15: same as 11-04-15 but tweaked a little more vdyno 282/334
11-16-15: caught a cool morning 65* IAT vdyno 290/344! Max timing 14.5* pump 93
12-5-15: ported intake manifold installed
12-5-15: v9.1 map attached. This is close to the final one that got me 290/344 vdyno
12-6-15: untouched map from 290/344 tune, 22 degrees hotter BAT, vdyno 293/346!!!
12-7-15: modified tune, 77* starting BATs, 295/350
1-16-16: 23.5psi target, 13* timing, 305/372. GOAL MET on k04.
2-18-16: BNR S2 arrived. Justin@Freek contacted for tuning. Install scheduled for next week.
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I wanted to start a thread to track progress of my car. No built motor here. No big turbo stuff. I want my stock block to last a while. So let us start off with background...

This is a 2013 cwp 3 that I purchased new in 2013 over the phone. I had not seen the car but I knew I wanted it. Called a local dealer and told them my bottom line price. They told me to fuck off basically. Called back after a few hours, got the manager on the phone, said I was coming with cash and to have papers ready and car waxed. He agreed to my price at this point and from here on out was the smoothest car transaction to date for me. In and out in an hour and car was spotless when I arrived.

Car has 58k on the clock. Does not burn oil. And has proven to be quite reliable thus far.

10-12-2015
Run down of what I currently have installed:
APv2
JBR 3" full intake
JBR EGR delete
Throttle body coolant bypass
Custom SSP
Corksport BPV
Corksport Fuel Pump Internals
Decatted oem DP and 2nd cat
Sure Boost Tubes
3 bar map and pnp harness
Ported OEM manifold with OEM Mazda gasket
CS trans inserts
JBR 88 rmm
ADD W1 OCC routed to valve cover and pcv
Evo 8 wheels
Stoptech slotted rotors and ceramic pads all around

I self tuned this setup, it was fun, I am now over it.

In garage:
JBR ebcs
3" cnt catless DP wrapped in dei titanium exhaust wrap


To be ordered:
DM mounts all around
Custom Etune on 93

Plan...
I am going to be porting the oem manifold. It will have deleted vtcs and the holes between the runners will be welded in. I contacted extrude hone and was going to send the manifold to them once the hand porting was done...fuck that. Quote was $600. It will get hand ported and smoothed to the best of my abilities and that is that.

I am aiming for 340/340 on 93 with no alcohol. I want something I can drive anywhere without worrying about finding E or running low on meth. It will be ran on the stock catback because I do a lot of highway driving and couldn't stand the catless straight exhaust I had. If I obtain numbers higher than my goal then awesome but I want to stay realistic and want the motor to last. Seems like the higher HP stock blocks kill rings after 20-30k. I want to see 100k from this motor without issues. Etuner is still undecided at this point.

I will update with pictures once the car is cleaned up and I find time. Vdyno progress will also be updated as I go. Plan is to have this finished by December. The biggest problem at this point will just be finding time to install the shit I collect.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

You got me all hot and heavy for nothing

[Swinger13]

so you still plan to go forged and twinscroll for those power goals?

Also with the manifold, I'm self porting as well but going single runner because I plan on a 500 plus awhp set up and my cost so far into the manifold is about 200-250 bucks (price of manifold I bought was 60 bucks), tools such as a die grinder, an alumi-cut burr, and 4 long carbide burrs (6 inch shanks). A lot cheaper than a JMF and I think it'll suffice for my power goals. I'm pretty well done runner 3, really time consuming but rewarding in the end once you get it to a product you like.

[speedfreak44]

I wont be going single runner. I would be worried about the hit at the head if it was done that way without also modifying the head port.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I wont be going single runner. I would be worried about the hit at the head if it was done that way without also modifying the head port.

Well you would "knife edge" the runners in the head if that's the case but for your goals just a gasket matched port job is plenty.

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[Pu Manchu]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I am aiming for 340/340 on 93 with no alcohol.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by Pu Manchu

On 93 while sober

[speedfreak44]

No no no the alcohol is reserved for consumption via myself.

Yes I planned to just clean up the manifold a bit and port match but wanted extrude hone to make it all nice and pretty inside so less shit sticks.

And what is wrong with 340/340? I will let my tuner see the max potential so I can post here but my final goal is to daily around that power level. Who knows I guess we will see how it goes once I feel what the setup is capable of

[Pu Manchu]

i think if you just wanted 340/340, you could have replaced 80% of your mods with just the turbo and you would end up in the same place.

[snailD]

my opinons:
i have found that its not big power that is the end all big killer, its how aggressive the tune is. The car will be more reliable with a bigger turbo running a safe tune at 350hp on pump gas than a ko4 running e85 running 335hp. Don't go crazy with the porting and go single runner, just smooth everything out and remove the vtcs. remember on a gen 2 it will hiccup on a cold start without the vtcs system in place. if you delete the coolant running to the throttle body you really don't need a tig there but i guess it doesn't hurt

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 No no no the alcohol is reserved for consumption via myself. Yes I planned to just clean up the manifold a bit and port match but wanted extrude hone to make it all nice and pretty inside so less shit sticks.

If you want less shit to stick to the walls then clean up the valves/runners and run a catch can (if you don't have one already). A PCV system functioning properly will keep the runners/valves clean.

Seriously for those goals you don't even need to port the manifold. imean if you want to go ahead but it's a waste of time IMHO

[speedfreak44]

I run an OCC already from the pcv and the valve cover.

What do you think that turbo can do on just pump at sea level with a basically fully bolted setup? From what I was seeing it looked like 340-350whp was it and obviously higher wtq but I want a happy clutch and smooth power. Again, we will see where the tune takes us. I may finalize it with an aggressive map and a daily map. Would be nice to see where this thing could go

[snailD]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I run an OCC already from the pcv and the valve cover. What do you think that turbo can do on just pump at sea level with a basically fully bolted setup? From what I was seeing it looked like 340-350whp was it and obviously higher wtq but I want a happy clutch and smooth power. Again, we will see where the tune takes us. I may finalize it with an aggressive map and a daily map. Would be nice to see where this thing could go

you should be able to get around 350 on pump with the cs turbo

[speedfreak44]

So I know all about the terrible first 15 seconds of cold start but what makes this happen then go away after about 15-30 seconds? Is it something that can be tuned out via accesstuner? Could be a stupid question but always wondered that


Edit:

First update...
CS tmic purchased

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 So I know all about the terrible first 15 seconds of cold start but what makes this happen then go away after about 15-30 seconds? Is it something that can be tuned out via accesstuner? Could be a stupid question but always wondered that Edit: First update... CS tmic purchased

I heard if you raise the idle to like 800-900 it won't do that.

I have the VTCS Delete as well, but been lazy to do the idle change.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[speedfreak44]

I set it at 950 right now and I actually like it a lot. But I still have vtcs in and am doing that just to keep the k04 from smoking

[Pu Manchu]

slight throttle when starting will bypass cold start.

[snailD]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 So I know all about the terrible first 15 seconds of cold start but what makes this happen then go away after about 15-30 seconds? Is it something that can be tuned out via accesstuner? Could be a stupid question but always wondered that Edit: First update... CS tmic purchased

its the cold start enrichment procedure which makes it happen although i can't tell you why it doesn't really effect gen1. Maybe just a slightly different logic on how to go about the cold start enrichment. basically it does it to heat everything up to operating temp faster. i just do the throttle trick to bypass it. i think nishan did some testing with the idle tables at different temps and was able to tone it down

[speedfreak44]

Update:

Dropped intake manifold off to semi local shop today with new oem gasket to port match and smooth the runners. They are going to weld the vtcs shut and the vacuum box hole on top shut as it wont be need. They will also be grinding the extra studs down that the vacuum block attached to and making things all pretty.

I will be having them intall the manifold as I do not have the time to do the work myself anymore. Once the intake manifold is installed I will be having the k04 retuned just to see what a basically fully bolted k04 tmic can do on florida 93. Going to be a little break in time before the bigger turbo goes on so I may as well enjoy what I have to the max til that happens (probably 3 months down the road roughly).

[Raider]

Not sure why this was closed, @speedfreak44;

reopened.

[speedfreak44]

Question...
Does the piece that the brake booster attach to on the manifold just pop out of the manifold? My pnp one is broken and I planned to remove the good one from my stock manifold and swap it over if possible. Or I could put a barb in place and just run a new hose.

I am currently retuning the k04 to see where pump gas lands me fully bolted prior to CS turbo. Trying to break 300whp and hopefully hold over 280 by 6500rpm. Original tune was hitting 272/319 and seeing 261 at redline. Tune as of today with addition of CS tmic is seeing 277/329 and 267 at redline. This was done with iat of 93 degrees on sunoco 93 octane.

[speedfreak44]

Got word from the shop porting the intake manifold that it should be finished some point this weekend but I wont be picking it up til next week. Guy doing the work said he was thinking about adding material around the throttle body area so he could port it out as well. Hopefully it turns out well fingers crossed.

[Swinger13]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 Got word from the shop porting the intake manifold that it should be finished some point this weekend but I wont be picking it up til next week. Guy doing the work said he was thinking about adding material around the throttle body area so he could port it out as well. Hopefully it turns out well fingers crossed.

I'd love to see how he adds material to the throttle body area. I have a larger throttle body to mount but if I port match to it, the air charge runs into a 5mm wall around the outside of the intake manifold/throttle body flange.

As of right now, stock throttle body will have to do.

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[speedfreak44]

I will post plenty of pictures this coming weekend. By then I will have the manifold back and can update the post with clean car pics (cwp color and dirt do not mix well).

Current tune sitting at 282/334 now holding 270 at 6700. Going to keep tweaking this shit once full bolt ons are done just to see what can be achieved. This is a pure boost tune. Kind of wonder if switching to load based will net anything more or less.

[speedfreak44]

Picked up the manifold early. Looks great. They did not break through the wall near the throttle body yet it is very smooth. Maybe gen 2s are different? I don't know either way I will be posting pics asap once I am home from work.

[moo_cow1216]

I have a gen2 with vtcs delete. It hiccups on cold start and my idle is set to 900. Had my tuner get rid of cold start but it still wants to do it unless I bump gas on start up. Once I bump gas it don't cold start or hiccup

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[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by Swinger13 I'd love to see how he adds material to the throttle body area. I have a larger throttle body to mount but if I port match to it, the air charge runs into a 5mm wall around the outside of the intake manifold/throttle body flange. As of right now, stock throttle body will have to do. Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

I mean there are people making upwards of 800 whp on the stock throttle body.

The larger throttle body has been shown to be pretty impossible to tune; I'd stay away from it.

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff I mean there are people making upwards of 800 whp on the stock throttle body. The larger throttle body has been shown to be pretty impossible to tune; I'd stay away from it.

This is what I was thinking. I remember hearing about a couple people with a 6 actually getting it to work. But I don't remember hearing of anyone with a 3 getting it to work correctly.

[speedfreak44]

I don't know if you can tell the porting but it is almost 100% even flow from TB inlet to manifold. I will be uploading a few more manifold pics but my phone wont let me put more than 1 per post so if a mod can merge them that would be great. The shop is researching a way to build me a full 3" exhaust that is quiet. I want something on par with stock or quieter lol (says the guy running catless). They are also urging me to go gt3076 instead of the CS turbo. I feel like the CS turbo is the best bang for the buck though what do you guys think?

[speedfreak44]

image.jpeg

The marks on the flange are not really there it is from the camera

[speedfreak44]

image.jpeg

[moo_cow1216]

All depends on the kind of power you want to make. The bnrs4 is pretty close to a 3076 from what I hear and isn't that bad priced. I have a cs turbo and am very pleased. Basically any turbo you get will get you close to 400whp just some will do it easier

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[speedfreak44]

Not looking for 400 unless we are talking crank. Realistically wanting 340/340 or a little more. I want the clutch and motor to hold up for a while

[moo_cow1216]

A 3076 will get you 340 on 93 easy. A cs turbo will also do it

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[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by speedfreak44 I don't know if you can tell the porting but it is almost 100% even flow from TB inlet to manifold. I will be uploading a few more manifold pics but my phone wont let me put more than 1 per post so if a mod can merge them that would be great. The shop is researching a way to build me a full 3" exhaust that is quiet. I want something on par with stock or quieter lol (says the guy running catless). They are also urging me to go gt3076 instead of the CS turbo. I feel like the CS turbo is the best bang for the buck though what do you guys think?

For stock block, CS turbo is best bang for buck. It also keeps the k04 characteristics much better than 3076 (spool time). You aren't going to miss that upper end power, IMO. I have a turbo that is pretty much ALL upper end power and TBH, the drivability suffers imensely on the streets because of that. Now, if you wanted to go GTX or HTA for 3076, you'd have a pretty bitchin turbo, but that costs about 40-50% more than a CS bolt on. And the CS turbo install is pretty painless, so you'd have that going for you as well.


The best advice I can give you is disregard power numbers and pick a turbo that will have the best drive ability for what you want.

[moo_cow1216]

He is correct about cs turbo. It spools maybe 500rpm later than ko4 if that and that's mostly for stock block.

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[g00s3y]

If you want 340/340 just go with a BNR S3. You won't even max that out at that level, and it spools quicker than the CS turbo I believe.

[HawkeyeGeoff]

Originally Posted by g00s3y If you want 340/340 just go with a BNR S3. You won't even max that out at that level, and it has spools quicker than the CS turbo I believe.

I had the bnr and I can confirm this, but I had quality issues with mine so i avoid recommending it now.

Sent while granny shifting, not doubling clutching like I should

[speedfreak44]

It does seem to spool slightly quicker but the CS seems to keep the power a little more at redline which I care more about. The higher up power band should help on the street more so to keep those tires planted.

On that note I lowered wgdc below 50% throttle about 10-20% and my god the car drives so much smoother.

Anyone try out bridgestone re71-r tires? Thinking about some 245/40-17s

[moo_cow1216]

Yea I hit 24psi at about 5500rpm and hold it redline on cs turbo

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