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| VersaTune VersaTuner tuning software by VersaTune. Available for Mazdaspeed3, Mazda 3 MPS, Mazdaspeed Axela, Mazdaspeed6, Mazda 6 MPS, Mazdaspeed Atenza. Includes ECU reflashing/remapping, online tune database, custom tune editing ability, virtual dashboard, data logging, diagnostics/DTC code management, Launch Control, No Lift Shift, and stutter-free Smooth Shifting. |
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![]() Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Iasi/Romania
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As a side note (wall of text following) if you're on stock block the S3 may be a bit more appropriate even if you use meth. The reason is that the factory pistons are not able to handle heat very well and with a GT30frame turbo (and the CS turbo is one of them) you will get maximum power upper in the power band, around 6200-6500rpm. So at 6700 which is the factory rev limit the turbo will still be able to push quite a lot of air efficiently. Even if you resist the temptation to up the rev limit which is a no-go in my opinion on a stock internals engine, making the peak power upper in the rev range (probably 500-1000rpm later than an S3 depending on the tune and gas you're using) the pistons will take a lot of heat and you'll run into cracked ringlands issues. That will happen even if you use meth, because with the extra cooling from meth and the additional fuel you will definitely up the boost and timing which eventually will result in abut the same head endured by the pistons and cylinders. So if you're on stock block get the S3 and use that extra 300-500rpm in the 3200-3700 range which with a GT30 frame turbo (CS, BNR S4, GT/GTX3071) is kind of lost, because that will usually make up for the 300-500rpm you loose up top with the S3 over the GT30 turbos. Also, on a stock block the GT30 turbos have more potential than the stock block can use safely, and in the 4000-6000 rev range the S3 and a GT30 turbo will perform similarly on a stock block (because of the limits of a stock block, not because of the turbo potential which is slightly higher even in that range with a GT30). Makes sense? P.S.: the factory pistons oil rings are absolutely and totally fucked and drowned in soot deposits after 30-40k miles of use, using some kind of oil flush or sea foam before you upgrade the turbo (or even start tuning) is a tremendously good idea which will delay the ringlands from cracking for quite a while. The clogged oil rings means less lubrication and cooling from the oil and remember, heat is the no #1 enemy of a factory piston.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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