Ask the Detailer

[Labster]

I've done this on a few other forums that I frequent and it seems to work out well. I've been detailing for almost 10 years now and own a detailing business catering to high end luxury and exotic owners. Feel free to post up your detailing related questions and I'll do my best to answer them asap. I'm frequently online so you can catch me on AIM or Google chat as well.

[armarine04]

Whats the best thing to use to repair/patch/cover-up/make less noticable small paint chips on the front of my car (its black and every lil chip is a spot light on the car)

[Addikted To Boost]

alan, google dr. colorchip, i hear it is the best thing to use. They send you oem matched paint too. There is a thread on here about it.

[Aetherfury]

I am also a detailing freak and I use a DA polisher (g110v2) for most stuff. My question is that I have heard the best stuff to clean the rotary pads is Dawn Power Dissolver but I can't find any around me anywhere. What's the next best thing to get them real clean without leaving residue?

[Labster]

Originally Posted by armarine04 Whats the best thing to use to repair/patch/cover-up/make less noticable small paint chips on the front of my car (its black and every lil chip is a spot light on the car)

OEM touch up paint. If you want to make it look near factory try a bit of wet sanding to take off the high spots as well.

Originally Posted by Aetherfury I am also a detailing freak and I use a DA polisher (g110v2) for most stuff. My question is that I have heard the best stuff to clean the rotary pads is Dawn Power Dissolver but I can't find any around me anywhere. What's the next best thing to get them real clean without leaving residue?

I just use an All Purpose cleaner and soak the pads for 5-7 minutes and then a soft brush like a tooth brush and then rinse (I use a pressure washer) Mine come out really well.

[Port90]

seat cracking? best cleaner for the leather

[neotide87]

after you clay bar what is the next best thing to detail the exterior if never done before? thanks

[lyonsroar]

Originally Posted by Aetherfury I am also a detailing freak and I use a DA polisher (g110v2) for most stuff. My question is that I have heard the best stuff to clean the rotary pads is Dawn Power Dissolver but I can't find any around me anywhere. What's the next best thing to get them real clean without leaving residue?

I've heard WalMart carries it. I use APC. Picked up a big spray bottle of goof off today and it seemed to work.

[lyonsroar]

Originally Posted by neotide87 after you clay bar what is the next best thing to detail the exterior if never done before? thanks

If never done before I would start with M105 compound and then move on to M205 and then sealant (like Blackfire Wet Diamond) and then wax (AutoGlym, FK 1000p, etc)

[Wildfire]

My engine is dirty. There's no caked mud or anything. Just a thin film of dirt from never washing it. What's the best way to clean it? Spray it at the car wash? I read somewhere that I can use a foaming tire cleaner and let it drip. What say you?

[ckahler666]

Easiest way to get damn bugs off without scratching at the paint or using a solvent? I've heard of using dryer sheets but haven't tried it yet.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by ckahler666 Easiest way to get damn bugs off without scratching at the paint or using a solvent? I've heard of using dryer sheets but haven't tried it yet.

I hate to invade someone else's thread, but know a bit about detailing, and dryer sheets are abrasive.

A pressure washer works well to remove bug guts.

Another avenue would be to allow a bug and tar remover to dwell on the bugs to loosen them before wiping them off.

Originally Posted by Wildfire My engine is dirty. There's no caked mud or anything. Just a thin film of dirt from never washing it. What's the best way to clean it? Spray it at the car wash? I read somewhere that I can use a foaming tire cleaner and let it drip. What say you?

You have to be extremely careful to cover all the necessary components if you decide to do this.

Someone pointed this thread out to me...
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...get-evo-56721/

[ckahler666]

Oh okay, I've read a few different places that wetting the sheets creates a soapy and slippery residue that softens the bugs and wipes them right off without scratching the paint, but I guess I'll have to go buy some remover and try it out.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by ckahler666 Oh okay, I've read a few different places that wetting the sheets creates a soapy and slippery residue that softens the bugs and wipes them right off without scratching the paint, but I guess I'll have to go buy some remover and try it out.

It might, it just might not be the best idea to wipe them off with the sheets.

Our paint is pretty soft.

[ckahler666]

Alrighty, thanks for the info.

[Yanahdi]

Originally Posted by ckahler666 Easiest way to get damn bugs off without scratching at the paint or using a solvent? I've heard of using dryer sheets but haven't tried it yet.

I personally use a detailer spray (Griots Speed Shine, Meguiars is good stuff too) and microfiber cloth. Regular waxing makes bugs and bird crap much easier to clean, they just slide right off. Just be liberal with the spray, you don't want to be scraping those half digested seeds that bird shit out all over your hood without any lubrication.

For cleaning the engine bay: I rarely do this but in the past spraying some Simple Green around and then pressure washing it off works pretty well if it's really dirty. Just get some foil beforehand and cover up your important bits like finkle said.

For the guy asking about leather: I like Lexol. Our interiors feel more like vinyl but a leather cleaner like Lexol is fine for either. Generally, a leather cleaner is good for leather AND vinyl. However, a vinyl cleaner should never be used on leather. I believe it strips the oil out of the leather IIRC.

[Spd3]

I have a brand new 2011 speed 3. I'm assuming it doesn't come waxed from the dealer so I'd like to do so. Here's my question.

Should I just get the car nice and clean, then just wax it, or should I clay bar if first then wax it? Basically should I just go right to wax, or do something else first?

[lyonsroar]

Originally Posted by Spd3 I have a brand new 2011 speed 3. I'm assuming it doesn't come waxed from the dealer so I'd like to do so. Here's my question. Should I just get the car nice and clean, then just wax it, or should I clay bar if first then wax it? Basically should I just go right to wax, or do something else first?

You need to claybar first because often new cars come from the factory with something called rail dust that needs to be removed via claybar.

[John F]

Originally Posted by Spd3 I have a brand new 2011 speed 3. I'm assuming it doesn't come waxed from the dealer so I'd like to do so. Here's my question. Should I just get the car nice and clean, then just wax it, or should I clay bar if first then wax it? Basically should I just go right to wax, or do something else first?

Definitely wash and clay it first. Since it's probably in relatively good shape, I'd it it with something like p21s gloss enhancing cleanser and you're ready to wax or seal. I've been using Rejex paint sealant instead of wax because it looks awesome and it is super super durable. Use it on your glass, headlights, and paint shit will last at least 6-8 months.

[bms3mtb]

Drying:
Leather chamois vs microfiber vs what?
Favorites?

[rfinkle2]

Leafblower (with appropriate safe guard)...

The New Air Wand

I wouldn't touch my car with anything but microfiber.

[lyonsroar]

Originally Posted by bms3mtb Drying: Leather chamois vs microfiber vs what? Favorites?

Big giant waffle-weave or plain MF towel.

I actually use a "Vroom" one from Target. Works fine. I sometimes use "The Absorber" from Target as well.

Or you can use the sheeting method and blot dry what's left.
Actual video of my car drying itself...

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by lyonsroar Big giant waffle-weave or plain MF towel. I actually use a "Vroom" one from Target. Works fine. I sometimes use "The Absorber" from Target as well. Or you can use the sheeting method and blot dry what's left. Actual video of my car drying itself...

You are blessed with white, and I am cursed with black. LOL

[lyonsroar]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 You are blessed with white, and I am cursed with black. LOL

troof.

[theurgy]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Leafblower (with appropriate safe guard)... The New Air Wand I wouldn't touch my car with anything but microfiber.

Check out the Metrovac. It has a filtered blow option that is great for drying, as well as a blower unit just for drying cars:

Vac 'N

Air Force Master Blaster Car Dryer | Metropolitan Vacuum Cleaner

[HaigDaniel]

Can anyone tell me how the paint is on this car? I want to know if its a harder or softer paint so i know how much pressure and work i need to apply with my DA. i havent compounded/polished/waxed it yet so i wanna know.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by HaigDaniel Can anyone tell me how the paint is on this car? I want to know if its a harder or softer paint so i know how much pressure and work i need to apply with my DA. i havent compounded/polished/waxed it yet so i wanna know.

It seems to me that the front and the rear bumpers on my car are super soft, and the remainder of the car is moderately soft.

You will definitely need a fine polish like menzerna 85rd or po106fa to remove the micromarring from compounding.

The paint on the gen1 one cars is also relatively thin.

[jrotaryb]

As far as I know, the paint on our cars is pretty thin (as with most modern Japanese cars)but the clear is pretty hard.

In fact, the door jambs of my Silver 2011 appear pretty "blushed" with light spots as if they weren't hit with enough paint before the clearcoat. I wonder if anyone else has this...

This is just conjecture, but under the same scenarios, the front and rear bumpers should put up with chipping better than the rest of the car since the painted materials are urethane which flex and provide "give."

Unfortunately, the front and rear bumpers are subject to much more abuse from rocks so they will inevitably have more rock chips.

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by Z1 Performance As far as I know, the paint on our cars is pretty thin (as with most modern Japanese cars)but the clear is pretty hard. In fact, the door jambs of my Silver 2011 appear pretty "blushed" with light spots as if they weren't hit with enough paint before the clearcoat. I wonder if anyone else has this... This is just conjecture, but under the same scenarios, the front and rear bumpers should put up with chipping better than the rest of the car since the painted materials are urethane which flex and provide "give." Unfortunately, the front and rear bumpers are subject to much more abuse from rocks so they will inevitably have more rock chips.

I'm speculating here, but imo, there comes a point when too much flex agent is used on the urethane pieces, e.g. bumpers, where the paint becomes very soft.

I have a bit of detailing experience, and trust me, my bumpers are super soft.

[skeeter149]

Originally Posted by Labster OEM touch up paint. If you want to make it look near factory try a bit of wet sanding to take off the high spots as well. I just use an All Purpose cleaner and soak the pads for 5-7 minutes and then a soft brush like a tooth brush and then rinse (I use a pressure washer) Mine come out really well.

what grit wet sanding paper to use?

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by skeeter149 what grit wet sanding paper to use?

I'm pretty sure that you can get a package with different grits, but I'd only use 2500-3000 and soak the papers overnight in water with a few drops of soap.

Meguiar's Direct Unigrit® Finishing Papers

[theurgy]

For touch up.. check out Dr. Colorchip.
It's a seriously awesome paint chip fix.

[sheldonross]

So like the other guy, I have an issue with my seats. I must of had something in the my back pocket, because I just noticed I scraped the shit outta my side bolster on the driver's side. The leather is raised and looking pretty rough. I realize this may be more of a repair question, but is there some relatively easy fix?

[theurgy]

The usual suspect for this are the rivets on your jeans.

[manila]

Sorry to bring up an old thread.
@rfinkle2; What do you suggest when taking care of the leather on the side bolsters and steering wheel? I've been reading and Lexol is the way to go. Have you had any experiecne detailing with this?

And as far as the cracking and wrinkling in the leather goes, what do you suggest to fix/aid this?

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by manilaMS12 Sorry to bring up an old thread. @rfinkle2; What do you suggest when taking care of the leather on the side bolsters and steering wheel? I've been reading and Lexol is the way to go. Have you had any experiecne detailing with this? And as far as the cracking and wrinkling in the leather goes, what do you suggest to fix/aid this?

I really like "leatherique pristine clean". It cleans well, is gentle, leaves a matte finish and is pretty effective for conditioning and cleaning.

[crankshaft]

2 questions:

1. What kind of wax/sealer can I use that's more durable than the standard issue stuff? I've waxed 3 times with Maguires Gold. I'm very happy with it except that it needs to be waxed again in 3 months. I don't enjoy detailing nearly as much as I did when I was younger, and I'm hoping to find something that the smooth shine with less frequent applications.

2. Badge removal. I'm thinking about removing the 2 badges from the hatch....especially the "Mazdaspeed 3" badge since it's difficult to clean inside. How do I do this, and am I going to be able to make it look as if they were never there?


TIA,
Scott

[Limeybastard]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 I'm speculating here, but imo, there comes a point when too much flex agent is used on the urethane pieces, e.g. bumpers, where the paint becomes very soft. I have a bit of detailing experience, and trust me, my bumpers are super soft.

Yep. Just stick your finger nail in the side skirt or bumper and you'll see.

[theurgy]

Originally Posted by crankshaft 2 questions: 1. What kind of wax/sealer can I use that's more durable than the standard issue stuff? I've waxed 3 times with Maguires Gold. I'm very happy with it except that it needs to be waxed again in 3 months. I don't enjoy detailing nearly as much as I did when I was younger, and I'm hoping to find something that the smooth shine with less frequent applications. 2. Badge removal. I'm thinking about removing the 2 badges from the hatch....especially the "Mazdaspeed 3" badge since it's difficult to clean inside. How do I do this, and am I going to be able to make it look as if they were never there? TIA, Scott

Hey Scott, it depends on what you're looking for but I would suggest something like Optimum Opti-Seal for sealant and something like Collonite Super Double Coat (No. 476s).
Those are much tougher longer lasting products IMO.

As for Badge Removal, I suggest searching the many many threads on the subject.

[Redlinez]

Ok, I used to love Armor-All low gloss on my interior, but I can't find it anymore. Tried a Meguiars and it's too thick and leaves trails and doesn't spread evenly. Got any recommendations for interior protectant that doesn't leave a shine that's readily available?