Stratified Meth kit install using stock washer reservoir

[Lex]

Originally Posted by DSIT995 Just want to clarify something in this setup... So for the mounting in the TB silicone your using just the washer on the inside and attaching the nozzle threw the silicone to the 90* fitting? The reason I asked is I used the DO silicone adapter when I ran my TMIC setup and it always scared the shit out me the inner adapter was going to end up in my engine.(even with loctite on it) One of the reasons I didnt re-install my meth in the same manner on my fmic.. I want to get it hooked back up w/ my current setup and just trying to find the best nozzle mounting point If this is the case are you using loctite or something to make sure it doesnt loosen? And how would you go about cleaning the filter using this method.. btw my setup is the original DO stage 2 progressive controller and I ran a DO3 nozzle w/ 25/75% mix.. kinda weak but kept BATs at bay in the summer months Edit: Also would you reccomend using the "newer style" nozzles from DO which seem similar to the CoolingMist nozzles?

I've ran this setup for a long time (years) with no issues. Yes, I use blue loctite on the nozzle but the NPT fitting and sticky nature of the silicone has worked great at keeping everything together with no leaks. The coupler I am using is the COBB one to the throttle body and it is quite thick. I don't like the adapters that DO makes and won't use them. Having a nut inside the charge pipe scares me as well - this is safer as the threading happens outside the charge pipe and can be checked periodically. Also I have the older style 90* elbow that has a fairly large surface against the silicone. Newer ones may need a washer.

I have used both the new and old DO nozzles. I preferred the old since they protruded less in the pipe but the new ones work fine.

To clean the filter, I just remove the coupler and take the assembly to the bench.

[DSIT995]

Originally Posted by Lex I've ran this setup for a long time (years) with no issues. Yes, I use blue loctite on the nozzle but the NPT fitting and sticky nature of the silicone has worked great at keeping everything together with no leaks. The coupler I am using is the COBB one to the throttle body and it is quite thick. I don't like the adapters that DO makes and won't use them. Having a nut inside the charge pipe scares me as well - this is safer as the threading happens outside the charge pipe and can be checked periodically. Also I have the older style 90* elbow that has a fairly large surface against the silicone. Newer ones may need a washer. I have used both the new and old DO nozzles. I preferred the old since they protruded less in the pipe but the new ones work fine. To clean the filter, I just remove the coupler and take the assembly to the bench.

Exactly what I wanted to know, Thanks a bunch

[KevMS6]

Left side is aquamist silicone hose adaptor with aqaumist jet
Right side is devils own silicone hose adaptor

No risk of anything falling off as its a solid peice and the jet sprays perfectly

[DSIT995]

Worked like a charm... This feels much more secure than the DO adapter... With a dab of loctite its ready to go
Thanks again Lex

[Dr. Speed]

@Lex; What kind of fluid check valve do you use when hooking up the lines to the OEM washer tank on a Gen2? (where should I get it?)

[Lex]

Originally Posted by Dr. Speed @Lex; What kind of fluid check valve do you use when hooking up the lines to the OEM washer tank on a Gen2? (where should I get it?)

Here are a few choices:

SWF Windshield Washer Check Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive

SWF Windshield Washer Check Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive
SWF Windshield Washer Check Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive

[Dr. Speed]

Originally Posted by Lex Here are a few choices: SWF Windshield Washer Check Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive ScanTech Windshield Washer Check Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive Or just go to local parts store and ask for windshield washer check valve.

Great, thanks

One more thing... if I was to drill and tap the washer fluid tank, where would be the best place in your opinion? (just above where the factory pump sits or on the front down low?... is there room between the tank and the bumper to tap the front?)

[Lex]

Originally Posted by Dr. Speed Great, thanks One more thing... if I was to drill and tap the washer fluid tank, where would be the best place in your opinion? (just above where the factory pump sits or on the front down low?... is there room between the tank and the bumper to tap the front?)

If you wanted to tap the factory tank I would find the thickest area and use epoxy and do it at the bottom of the tank not on its side.

[DuBz]

Subbed.......deff going this route when I'm ready

[bryansawiseone]

On the 2nd gen couldn't you just hook the meth line to the rear ww port instead of connecting the front and rear with a tee and not have to worry about the rear ww coming on while using the front?

[Lex]

Originally Posted by bryansawiseone On the 2nd gen couldn't you just hook the meth line to the rear ww port instead of connecting the front and rear with a tee and not have to worry about the rear ww coming on while using the front?

Tested this and it didn't work out with hooking up to just a single outlet of the pump.

[pwned]

Do it matter if the check valve is right at the cowl area? Or can it be down by the tank?

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwned Do it matter if the check valve is right at the cowl area? Or can it be down by the tank?

I would have it as close to the nozzle as possible to keep the line filled as close to the nozzle as possible.

[pwned]

Originally Posted by Lex I would have it as close to the nozzle as possible to keep the line filled as close to the nozzle as possible.

Would the best spot be where the red circle is? I was asking about the added check valve needed when tapping into the 2010+ washer tank..

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwned Would the best spot be where the red circle is? I was asking about the added check valve needed when tapping into the 2010+ washer tank..

Ah sorry, a good place for that is where the line comes up from the fender on the driver's side cowl but really it doesn't matter as long as it sits between the T fitting and the washer nozzles.

[pwned]

Originally Posted by Lex Ah sorry, a good place for that is where the line comes up from the fender on the driver's side cowl but really it doesn't matter as long as it sits between the T fitting and the washer nozzles.

I am getting everything together to run the actual feed line. I have the tee as pictured and I am going to tee in the same spot as pictured by you. Now when I spray my washers isn't the fluid going to try and go up my line to the meth pump? Should I be worried about anything? Try a different tee? Add another check valve? All I found were plastic tee's and nothing fancy like your metal one.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwned I am getting everything together to run the actual feed line. I have the tee as pictured and I am going to tee in the same spot as pictured by you. Now when I spray my washers isn't the fluid going to try and go up my line to the meth pump? Should I be worried about anything? Try a different tee? Add another check valve? All I found were plastic tee's and nothing fancy like your metal one.

The meth pump and single check valve at the nozzle will prevent fluid from being injected when you use the washers.

Make sure the connections are solid. Not sure what is going on with the one small T but what I do is use a larger T and fit a piece of larger hose over it. Then that hose fits over the meth feed hard line.

Remember that mine is a Gen1. Your Gen2 setup will look different. Below is a gen2 setup:

[pwned]

Originally Posted by Lex The meth pump and single check valve at the nozzle will prevent fluid from being injected when you use the washers. Make sure the connections are solid. Not sure what is going on with the one small T but what I do is use a larger T and fit a piece of larger hose over it. Then that hose fits over the meth feed hard line. Remember that mine is a Gen1. Your Gen2 setup will look different. Below is a gen2 setup:

I really don't know where I was going with that tee I made lol I was wrong. That gen 2 image helps a lot! I was going to just block off my rear washer line since I never use it.

[DSIT995]

I made some slight changes to my nozzle setup to combat any slight leaks at higher boost levels

I decided to use a McMaster-Carr Nozzle part# 3178K75 DO Nozzle are the 2 on the left and McMaster on the right. McMaster is on $7.16 Vs $20. The McMaster nozzle's seems to have the same type of mesh screen as the DO's. According to there pressure chart this nozzle should flow the same as a D05


Main benefit isit has more threads(9.6mm) Vs the standard DO nozzle (7.75mm) The slight increase made it possible to use 2 washers inside & outside 3-ply silicone to combat any leaks at higher boosts. Also for those w/ 4-ply couplers this will give you a extra bit of thread to work with..



Also using a hollow punch(5/16th) made a much cleaner hole. Found here

Again thanks to Lex for showing this method for nozzle placemnet

[Dust]

I did the same thing for a preturbo nozzle installed into a cone filter

[cld12pk2go]

I have been using the Mcmaster carr "M" nozzles for 7 years...

They work great.

[Dust]

I have a few left from my first kit. The far left brass ones are still cheaper. Devil's own nozzles were $6 for a while. Glad I grabbed some, even though it will probably bring me up to 25 nozzles from 4 different companies for two different kinds of kits.

[Lex]

Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...

[pwdunmore]

Originally Posted by Lex Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...

How soon?

I just order my SP stage 2 kit and was looking for some silicone mounting adapters or figuring out how to do this washer method.

I was planning to install my meth kit then get a tune from Stratified

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwdunmore How soon? I just order my SP stage 2 kit and was looking for some silicone mounting adapters or figuring out how to do this washer method. I was planning to install my meth kit then get a tune from Stratified

I'm not promising timeframes at the moment as things are in development at the moment. After this there will be testing and if all works out; it will be out for sale.

The tunes however are always available

[pwdunmore]

Originally Posted by Lex I'm not promising timeframes at the moment as things are in development at the moment. After this there will be testing and if all works out; it will be out for sale. The tunes however are always available

Ahhh true, might be a little wait then. Guess I will go with a DO nozzle and using washers to seal it in the silicone.

Definitely want to get my meth installed before I get a tune though, unless there not much point waiting but I am sure the meth will give more room for tuning for you guys.

For my set-up should I get a solenoid or check valve? I am a little confused as to when they are needed/used. I haven't mounted or installed anything so I can change the arrangement of my set-up, all I have right now is the Snow Performance Stage 2 MAF.

[sidekick]

So does the OEM washer pump keep a constant supply in the window washer lines/WMI lines by default? Or does the OEM wiring need to be messed with?

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwdunmore Ahhh true, might be a little wait then. Guess I will go with a DO nozzle and using washers to seal it in the silicone. Definitely want to get my meth installed before I get a tune though, unless there not much point waiting but I am sure the meth will give more room for tuning for you guys. For my set-up should I get a solenoid or check valve? I am a little confused as to when they are needed/used. I haven't mounted or installed anything so I can change the arrangement of my set-up, all I have right now is the Snow Performance Stage 2 MAF.

I haven't seen any issues with running a check valve and there are fewer things that can fail. And yes, WMI does certainly give you more headroom, especially in the summer and in areas with poorer quality fuel.

Originally Posted by sidekick So does the OEM washer pump keep a constant supply in the window washer lines/WMI lines by default? Or does the OEM wiring need to be messed with?

The wiring does not have to be touched.

[crazyspeed6]

Originally Posted by Lex Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...

I'm in, you know I'm ready for WMI, and as the temps rise, things arent going to get any better.

[86AmishMs3]

Ug guess I'll put my check book back...thought this was a new product release.

[Lex]

Originally Posted by 86azms3 Ug guess I'll put my check book back...thought this was a new product release.

Not just yet

[86AmishMs3]

Originally Posted by Lex Not just yet

Well hopefully soon, because I have some tax return money, and I've been closer to pulling the trigger for some meth to help supplement. But I would like something that is well integrated.

[pwned]

Few quick questions.

The setup with the t's as pictured. Is this the correct way for my 2013? Along with the inline check valve connection? (Note I left my rear washer line feed unhooked because I do not use it.)

In the other image could I just use the rear line by itself as a feed (unhook from the white connection) or is there not enough flow by itself? Or other issues?

[pwned]

I think I made a mistake. Does this look more like it??

[Lex]

Originally Posted by pwned I think I made a mistake. Does this look more like it??

As long as the WMI us drawing from both pump outputs then that is all you need. So it looks like both were going to work.

[pwned]

Originally Posted by DSIT995 I made some slight changes to my nozzle setup to combat any slight leaks at higher boost levels I decided to use a McMaster-Carr Nozzle part# 3178K75 DO Nozzle are the 2 on the left and McMaster on the right. McMaster is on $7.16 Vs $20. The McMaster nozzle's seems to have the same type of mesh screen as the DO's. According to there pressure chart this nozzle should flow the same as a D05 Main benefit isit has more threads(9.6mm) Vs the standard DO nozzle (7.75mm) The slight increase made it possible to use 2 washers inside & outside 3-ply silicone to combat any leaks at higher boosts. Also for those w/ 4-ply couplers this will give you a extra bit of thread to work with.. Also using a hollow punch(5/16th) made a much cleaner hole. Found here Again thanks to Lex for showing this method for nozzle placemnet

I am having an issue using my d07 nozzle in the cobb coupler. There is no way two washers can be used. Im looking into getting a fitting from mc master.

This is right from DO's website
7 GPH (441ml/min) Micro Droplet Methanol

On mc master I found a nozzle that resembles the DO specs

part # 3178K52 in stainless steel

40psi 4.43 flow rate gph
100psi 7 flow rate gph

McMaster-Carr


I see it only comes in hollow cone so this wont work? I will need full right?

[DSIT995]

Originally Posted by pwned I am having an issue using my d07 nozzle in the cobb coupler. There is no way two washers can be used. Im looking into getting a fitting from mc master. This is right from DO's website 7 GPH (441ml/min) Micro Droplet Methanol On mc master I found a nozzle that resembles the DO specs part # 3178K52 in stainless steel 40psi 4.43 flow rate gph 100psi 7 flow rate gph McMaster-Carr I see it only comes in hollow cone so this wont work? I will need full right?

D07 appears to only be offered in the hollow cone... Idk what effects that could cause. Good question for lex..

But you would have zero issues using the McM nozzle with 2 washers, I'll post up a pic w/ 4ply coupler using 2 washers and it feels solid..

[pwned]

Originally Posted by Lex As long as the WMI us drawing from both pump outputs then that is all you need. So it looks like both were going to work.

I am having an issue using my d07 nozzle in the cobb coupler. There is no way two washers can be used. Im looking into getting a fitting from mc master.

This is right from DO's website
7 GPH (441ml/min) Micro Droplet Methanol

On mc master I found a nozzle that resembles the DO specs

part # 3178K52 in stainless steel

40psi 4.43 flow rate gph
100psi 7 flow rate gph

McMaster-Carr


I see it only comes in hollow cone so this wont work? I will need full right?

[Lex]

Remember to use very thin washers. Mcmaster sells some very thin units.

[dale_gribble]

I am having my spare cold tube tapped for the WMI injector this week. If there is enough material, perhaps tapping it alone will be enough, otherwise the machine shop will have to fashion a bung. On the MS6, there's a great place on the cold tube right before the coupler to get a straight shot to the throttle body. I'll post pics when I am done.

I am a little frustrated with DO; their boost controller was on backorder even though they were showing in stock; I have had a couple unanswered emails since and finally got an answer when I called today. If all goes well, I will be installing my WMI this weekend.

I bought 4 gallons of the snow premade meth/water to start, but I already sourced a local place that sells VP M1 so I can mix my own.