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 Old 04-08-2013, 11:49 AM   #121
 
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If you check your local hardware store, you might find some stainless washers that are likewise very thin compared to your typical fare.
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 Old 04-08-2013, 09:09 PM   #122
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Remember to use very thin washers. Mcmaster sells some very thin units.
Could you link them to me?

Tested out 1 crush washer as seen. I was not able to use a washer on the outside thow.

Im still a bit worried it may leak or blow out. No washer I can push the entire nozzle threw.
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 Old 04-12-2013, 09:33 AM   #123
 
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Here's my solution for the nozzle. $30 later at a local welding shop.

The nozzle isn't going anywhere now, and the nozzle is out of the way of the airflow.
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 Old 04-12-2013, 10:23 AM   #124
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Originally Posted by pwned View Post
Could you link them to me?

Tested out 1 crush washer as seen. I was not able to use a washer on the outside thow.

Im still a bit worried it may leak or blow out. No washer I can push the entire nozzle threw.
If the holder feels like it will push through, it is not going to seal. You will need to find thinner washers or remove material from some of the parts involved.
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 Old 04-16-2013, 12:06 PM   #125
 
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If the holder feels like it will push through, it is not going to seal. You will need to find thinner washers or remove material from some of the parts involved.
Lex,
What about utilizing a thinner, 3-ply coupler versus the 4-ply cobb coupler to help free up some threads for a better seal?
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 Old 04-16-2013, 03:59 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by mtosofsky View Post
Lex,
What about utilizing a thinner, 3-ply coupler versus the 4-ply cobb coupler to help free up some threads for a better seal?
There are many ways to skin the proverbial cat ... and that's one of them.
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 Old 04-16-2013, 06:16 PM   #127
 
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Here's a simple supplement to Lex's guide. This is just a simple wiring diagram I used to help me along during my install.

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 Old 08-09-2013, 07:41 PM   #128
 
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Lex, is your pump held on with 1 bolt and 3 zip ties?
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 Old 08-10-2013, 12:17 AM   #129
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Originally Posted by radbrad View Post
Lex, is your pump held on with 1 bolt and 3 zip ties?
There's padding behind it so the metal bracket doesn't contact the frame. That padding allows for the effective tightening of the zip ties and holding the pump snugly. Haven't had an issue in 4 years and I didn't want to drill any holes.
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 Old 08-10-2013, 09:51 AM   #130
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
There's padding behind it so the metal bracket doesn't contact the frame. That padding allows for the effective tightening of the zip ties and holding the pump snugly. Haven't had an issue in 4 years and I didn't want to drill any holes.
Thanks for the info. Did you also toss out the rubber spacers that came with the pump, and switch out for rubber washers? Is that the padding you are talking about?

Sorry for noob questions.. I am in the process of mounting the pump right now. The pump is much heavier than I was thinking, and I worries about it bouncing around...
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 Old 08-10-2013, 12:29 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by radbrad View Post
Thanks for the info. Did you also toss out the rubber spacers that came with the pump, and switch out for rubber washers? Is that the padding you are talking about?

Sorry for noob questions.. I am in the process of mounting the pump right now. The pump is much heavier than I was thinking, and I worries about it bouncing around...
There isn't a one size fits all for this. I would have at least 1 bolt and if using straps get the heavier duty thicker ones and double up. The padding is just rubber pieces I had lying around so the pump bracket doesn't contact the frame.

This pump was used and the rubber washers/stoppers were mostly missing.
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 Old 08-10-2013, 01:40 PM   #132
 
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Thank you, great information
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 Old 08-20-2013, 10:52 AM   #133
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Originally Posted by radbrad View Post
Thank you, great information
Here's another pump install from last week. This time the feed line was also run through the bumper beam.

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 Old 08-20-2013, 12:01 PM   #134
 
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I didn't want to go this route due to using a shit ton of washer fluid in the winter but I just might now. @Lex; is the pump in that picture bolted on or just zip tied?
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 Old 08-20-2013, 12:11 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by BigRedSpecial View Post
I didn't want to go this route due to using a shit ton of washer fluid in the winter but I just might now. @Lex; is the pump in that picture bolted on or just zip tied?
Both. You want at least 1 bolt.
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 Old 08-20-2013, 03:18 PM   #136
 
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Originally Posted by dale_gribble View Post
Here's a simple supplement to Lex's guide. This is just a simple wiring diagram I used to help me along during my install.

Dale, you have the yellow wire going to the positive on the battery. Did you do this instead of using the float sensor?

I do not plan on using my float sensor, and was wondering what to do with the yellow wire. I was just going to tape it off, then I thought I would ground it, now it looks like maybe I should hook it to the positive.

Now I dont know what to do with it...
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 Old 08-20-2013, 03:25 PM   #137
 
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Originally Posted by BigRedSpecial View Post
I didn't want to go this route due to using a shit ton of washer fluid in the winter but I just might now.
If you aren't tuned for your kit, then you can simply turn off the kit in the winter, unless of course you don't have a winter.
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 Old 08-20-2013, 05:22 PM   #138
 
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Oh. but I do lol.

It isn't my ideal solution at all but it'll hold me over until I can figure out an alternative. Just ordered a few odds and ends to complete my kit.
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 Old 08-20-2013, 06:05 PM   #139
 
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Originally Posted by BigRedSpecial View Post
Oh. but I do lol.

It isn't my ideal solution at all but it'll hold me over until I can figure out an alternative. Just ordered a few odds and ends to complete my kit.
Run 50%+ meth, pump it through the pump, or whatever mix won't freeze, then unhook the pump's power, or, just uninstall it and plug the hose and nozzle.
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 Old 08-21-2013, 05:23 AM   #140
 
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That's the plan. I need the octane much more than cooling, so I'll mix one gallon meth with one gallon WWF, giving me ~75% meth. I'll throw a switch on the pump and run a less aggressive tune for the worst months.

Or I could just buy a beater...
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 Old 08-21-2013, 09:59 AM   #141
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Be careful with the blue washer fluid. The dye seems to build up on the nozzle filter and orifice.
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 Old 08-21-2013, 10:57 AM   #142
 
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Yeah I saw you mention that earlier... I'm thinking I might be ok with a 75% mix?

I was looking at the "Pacer" brand -35 from Canadian Tire if it makes any difference. MSDS states 40-50% methanol.
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 Old 08-21-2013, 10:59 AM   #143
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Originally Posted by BigRedSpecial View Post
Yeah I saw you mention that earlier... I'm thinking I might be ok with a 75% mix?

I was looking at the "Pacer" brand -35 from Canadian Tire if it makes any difference. MSDS states 40-50% methanol.
I would personally just buy methyl hydrate and mix my own.
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 Old 08-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #144
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...
Still curious to the elegant mounting @Lex; ...

tapping.... tap tap
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 Old 08-22-2013, 12:56 PM   #145
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Be careful with the blue washer fluid. The dye seems to build up on the nozzle filter and orifice.
It can also build up in your oil if you use enough of it. DO suggests using CLR to clean things out twice a year.
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 Old 08-23-2013, 10:25 AM   #146
 
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We have drums of pure methanol at work, we use it to wash off the excess glue on what we make.

My boss said I could have some, mix it with water and voila!
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 Old 09-27-2013, 09:23 AM   #147
 
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Hi Lex,

First and foremost I wanted to thank you for the inspiration. I decided to run your diagram for my setup as opposed to tapping the tank, so I installed last night. While setting up the system I wanted to keep the pump close to tank so I decided to make a bracket, and re-locate the horns (which now sit behind the reservoir):



On the 6 we have that weird 90 degree cold pipe. Right before the connection to the TB there's a little circle that was screaming for tap:


Started up, primed pump last night, no leaks...etc. Everything looking good from all angles. Ensured everything was plugged in and looking good to go. The only thing I cannot figure out is my dash light (for the windshield fluid) consistently stays on now.

Has anyone else run into this? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated, I'm currently at a loss. I'm sure its something easy, I hope...
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 Old 09-27-2013, 10:06 AM   #148
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Did you make sure the sensor in the tank is plugged in/no wiring shorts since you were working in the area?
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 Old 09-27-2013, 10:11 AM   #149
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Did you make sure the sensor in the tank is plugged in/no wiring shorts since you were working in the area?
I sure did, but I'm going to rip the bumper off again today to ensure I didn't pull some sort of dumb ass maneuver. I hope that's the mistake I made but I figured I'd inquire, just in case there was something else I may have done to trigger the light.
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 Old 09-27-2013, 10:17 AM   #150
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The sensor is simple. Fluid closes the circuit. If there is no fluid, the circuit is open and light is on. So a break in the wire, disconnection, etc. will trigger the light.
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 Old 09-27-2013, 11:30 AM   #151
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Sub'd for future install

What is everyone using as far as a fluid level sensor for the guys in the States?
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 Old 09-27-2013, 12:30 PM   #152
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Keep an eye out - we might have something very elegant for mounting for you guys ...
How's this coming along sir?
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 Old 09-27-2013, 12:42 PM   #153
 
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Two weeks.....

Ducking & Running.
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 Old 09-27-2013, 12:46 PM   #154
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Did you make sure the sensor in the tank is plugged in/no wiring shorts since you were working in the area?
So sure enough, the sensor in the tank was indeed plugged in.

The only difference between my system, compared to the diagram; is that on my setup I go from the line to the WMI pump, into AEM's methanol injection filter, and then into the pump itself.

Lex, would you happen to believe that going to the filter (prior to the pump) may be my culprit to the dash light? I'm trying to think of any logic as to why this would be the culprit, but I truly don't see the logic there.

I suppose I will remove the filter and re-install the line without the filter, but before I do so...would you mind letting me know what your thoughts are?
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 Old 09-27-2013, 01:47 PM   #155
 
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Originally Posted by PreyStayShun View Post
So sure enough, the sensor in the tank was indeed plugged in.

The only difference between my system, compared to the diagram; is that on my setup I go from the line to the WMI pump, into AEM's methanol injection filter, and then into the pump itself.

Lex, would you happen to believe that going to the filter (prior to the pump) may be my culprit to the dash light? I'm trying to think of any logic as to why this would be the culprit, but I truly don't see the logic there.

I suppose I will remove the filter and re-install the line without the filter, but before I do so...would you mind letting me know what your thoughts are?
DISREGARD, I dunno wtf happened. But unplugging the sensor and plugging it back in did the trick. *scratches head.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 08:33 AM   #156
 
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Does anyone know if a US Gen 1 has the low level washer fluid light connector is wrapped up in the general area? I know it won't have the sensor on the reservoir. Just trying to see if the connector is there so I can order an OEM sensor and tap the tank.
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 Old 12-20-2013, 08:48 AM   #157
 
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Originally Posted by He Hate Me View Post
Does anyone know if a US Gen 1 has the low level washer fluid light connector is wrapped up in the general area? I know it won't have the sensor on the reservoir. Just trying to see if the connector is there so I can order an OEM sensor and tap the tank.
Nope I didn't see a spare sensor on the harness anywhere.

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 Old 12-21-2013, 05:55 PM   #158
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At least there is ONE thing the Canadian cars had that is better than the US
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 Old 12-21-2013, 06:11 PM   #159
 
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I remember when I fitted cruise control on my car, because the first Euro Spec models didn't have that from the factory (not before 2008.5 in my area, some the ones sold Germany by example had it). The cabling was already there (both on the steering wheel controls and the brake pedal switch) and the guy from the dealer told me that the hardness on these cars is not different. If something is not there the most that needs to be done is to connect the new equipment/sensor/wire to the right connector.

Most probably the cars that don't have the washer fluid sensor have the dash light for it, as well as the support in the car harness and eventually PCM - it needs that to cut the rear and headlights washer nozzles when the level goes below 1/3 of the tank (which is about 3.2 liters I think, not even a gallon).

So track down the cable for that sensor to the first connector on a car that has it and fit your own, most probably that's the only thing you need to do.
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2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual
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Although I don't like necroposting, does anyone with a Pu have pictures of this method, more specifically the connection to the reservoir? I plan on going this route for cooling.
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Water/Meth - Mazda 3 Quebec This thread Refback 07-16-2013 01:08 PM
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Meth Kit - How to Tap the stock WWF reservoir This thread Refback 01-21-2013 08:33 PM

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