Stratified Meth kit install using stock washer reservoir

[Lex]

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UPDATED JAN 21 2013

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Decided to update and revamp this post with some fairly thorough diagrams for both Gen1 and Gen2. I have also included a good method to mount the nozzle in the charge piping without tapping a hard pipe. I will leave the original post content and images below but all you need are the 2 diagrams and information below. I have also added this writeup to our Blog

The octane and cooling benefits of installing a WMI kit on the MazdaSpeed and other vehicles is well documented. However one of the toughest parts of the installation is installing the fluid tank in a tight engine bay. The vehicles however come with a perfectly good and methanol safe tank for windshield washer fluid (washer fluid contains methanol). On top of this they have a low level light – a huge bonus.

While tapping the stock tank is an option, there is another option for using this tank without tapping it – drawing through the OEM washer pump.

The 2007-09 and 2010-13 vehicles have a different setup for this so we have created 2 diagrams attached below to show the two different setups. In both cases the windshield washers will continue working. However for the Gen2 (2010-13) cars the more complicated setup means that when activating the front washer, fluid will also be sent to the back and vice-versa. This can be a nuisance and if you don’t need the rear washer you can always just cap the line going to the rear washer.

Now you no longer have to run lines inside the car or add another tank and can enjoy the benefits of WMI if these were holding you back!

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Well, as I found out, we get really shitty gas here on the west coast. 94 octane knocks like a bitch in 4th gear and up and I got fed up with it.

So I decided install meth/water injection to keep the motor clean, knock at bay, and BATs happy with a top mount.

I wanted to keep it all in the engine bay and modify as little as possible. No need to add a tank in the trunk or run lines from a pump in the tank.

As you will see in the pictures below, the install included the following:

1. Tapped stock cold pipe and a Devil's own D05 nozzle, tight 90 degree turn, and check valve. The DO 90 degree turn makes all the difference here because you don't want to be hitting the hood with a tall nozzle such as the one from snow performance.

2. The pump was mounted where the horn is. A longer bolt is used to hold the pump in place with the horn behind it. Twin zap straps fit perfectly through the frame rail openings and the seemingly useless little bracket behind the driver side bumper offers another support. Make sure you pad your pump properly if it touches anything as it will vibrate and make noise.

3. The meth source. I used the stock windshield reservoir. At first I was going to tap it, but I quickly realized that water comes out if you unplug the stock washer pump. So I used a T to draw meth right through the pump. Everything works great and no tapping needed! I ran the hose in front of the bumper and covered it in wire loom to keep the color black.

4. The electronics. I got a sweet deal on a used Snow performance stage 2 kit. So I had a controller with a built in map sensor. I mounted it on the driver strut tower ... might move this but for now it does the trick. Power comes from an accessory fuse where an add-a-fuse was added. Make sure the source turns on with key on and off when key is off.

5. Finally for the boost source used a T from the BOV.

Make sure all connections are sound, no chance for electrical shorts, and use zap straps to brace loose hoses and wires.

After fiddling with the onset and full flow settings, I must say I love WI. Knock is down by at least 2 degrees and BATs fall to even below ambient! Heatsoak is much less of an issue and power is always there. Now I need a fuel pump as I am always running in "cold weather"