2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 performance air intake discussion

[spizot555]

I have a K&N Typhoon. Got a great deal on it. It works fantastic, the gains were immediately noticeable, and the sound is lovely.

I also have CS TIP that I installed months later. The TIP (I don't see why aluminum or silicone would be better when you consider the volume of air getting sucked in per minute) markedly increased the sucking/whooshing sound and you can clearly hear the turbo winding up.

Both are great. Are there better intakes for cheaper? Probably. But at the time I knew the K&N name, reviews promised an easy install, with no CEL's.

I did have a CEL the day after I installed it, but I pulled the code and the code was a 1000tightenthegascapidiot code.

I like how the KN has a boxed area to prevent the hot air from getting sucked in.

[BigJimMs3]

no i know they do my dealership sure does....they used to tell me about how they would spin 2nd gear in my old 3 lol...what ever...they break it they will fix it...they never have given me any warranty issues and they installed my dp lol still didnt void my warranty lol

[Monotonous ONE]

Nano for the victory...ridiculous quality...excellent sound...great performance

[Liquidboost]

Anyone running the corksport tip see a need to heat wrap it? I notice that cpe and cobb use silicone to control heat soak but cs uses an aluminum tube. seems like wrapping it would lower IAT. Am I crazy?

[Amazon]

It's not worth the thought, time, nor money. If you're worried about IAT's, get a fmic or at least a larger tmic.

[MS33SM]

Just got my Sure Motorsports black/black SRI.

First, Streetunit is awesome. Ordered it Wednesday night, shipped Thursday morning, arrived Saturday morning at 9 installed by 9:45am.

n00b review:
-I can hearz mah turbo!!!!11!!
-BPV goes PSSSHHHH11!!!!11!1
-Butt dyno reads over 5000HP!!!!!!!!!!!!!11!!!!11!!1
-RoRo says it's "ain'tNOhater approved"

Wife's Review
-Stop you're gonna make the dog puke
-Why does it sound like your engine is about to explode?

Normal Review
-The packaging is really nice, almost like they stole it from Apple.(yes i hate to say that)
-Build quality is really good. I have no other aftermarket intakes to compare it to but I might stop by SpoolMe's house tomorrow and see what he thinks since he has the CP-E intake.
-The adjustable arm is really nice, I had to adjust it and it's a very ingenius idea.
-The filter is pre oiled, not dry.
-No CELs WITH DRY FLOW FILTER!!!!
-I measured the ID of my stock MAF sensor housing exit at 2.678". The Sure MAF sensor housing exit is tapered. I initially measured 2.725" but after going back and getting the caliper closer to the exit, the number changed. The picture below is the 5th reading in a row to get that number so I'm more confident in 2.750". My guess is it's ~2.678" at the MAF sensor and tapers out to 2.750" for the exit. The last picture below is my attempt to show the taper.
I'm definitely sold on Sure Motorsports and plan on buying their stuff in the future.

I also put the free SU and Sure stickers where they belong, on the tank of my toilet. I duece 2x as fast and my toilet now has a super maelstrom effect!!

On the car:
2010-11-13_13-40-31_398.jpg
2010-11-13_13-40-37_452.jpg

Stock MAF sensor housing exit:
2010-11-13_13-42-16_215.jpg

SURE MAF sensor housing exit:
2010-11-13_13-46-35_76.jpg

Trying to show the taper in the SURE MAF sensor housing:
2010-11-13_13-48-02_881.jpg

*update* The pre oiled filter that came with the SURE Aeros gave me CEL issues. They started showing up after I posted this. After talking with Mark at Streetunit he send me a dry filter and it no longer gives me a CEL. There is still an ongoing debate on whether or not the LTFT & STFTs given are still acceptable.

[skawt01]

"-Butt dyno reads over 5000HP!!!!!!!!!!!!!11!!!!11!!1

I also put the free SU and Sure stickers where they belong, on the tank of my toilet. I duece 2x as fast and my toilet now has a super maelstrom effect!!"

Funny ass review. Glad the butt dyno has produced results on the fucken porcelain throne where you can really feel it!

[Nataphen]

Thanks for posting the MAF diameters. I have a list ready to go with all of the intakes that I could think of ATM. If you guys post up the diameters here, I'll add them to the OP.

[smitty5788]

Just put my SURE SRI/TIP on yesterday. I would say the same thing as MS33SM. Puts my old Corksport to shame and based on my trims flows a lot better!

[John@TheShopCT]

Pics?

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

[smitty5788]

Ill upload some later, have to go install my OCC and change my oil.

I forgot to remeasure the CS MAF before I shipped it, maybe someone else can. Im pretty positive that the SURE is larger.

[Silver Ecstasy]

Thanks for the review!! I'm really digging the new SURE products!!

[goodfella16]

i just recieved my sure motorsports sri, and it is very nice..came packaged very nice and was all put together already just had to losen the hose clamps and install it, everything fits nice, lots of clearanace all around the sri nothing is in the way or close to it, filter seems to be the same length as my cp-e synoid filter, but the sure filter seems wider. the car is very responsive compared to my cai, couldnt tell the difference topend, but the car has alot more power down low now, same noise just seems louder now i guess since its right in the engine bay instead of by the foglight

[Liquidboost]

Installed Cobb SRI today. Purchased from Velocity Factor in Boca Raton, FL. Opted for the upgraded Blitz filter. Cobb makes a very good quality piece directions were straight forward ( if required ) and very pleased with the performance upgrade car runs considerably better. And as many have said before you can finally hear the turbo.

Highly recommend the Cobb SRI. Pleased with Velocity Factor.

[smitty5788]

Bump because Im seeing more brown retards asking these questions ... how about we add some links to the op and make it a sticky?

[6SpeedTA95]

FYI the addition of my CorkSport SRI/TIP has dropped the soot substantially on the back of the car. It was never "bad" in my opinion. But it was noticeable after a week. I'd say it was reduced approximately 65%.

[Nataphen]

Probably more like 63%.

[CorkSport]

61.2% officially

We received our CARB EO number today for the intakes.

-Derrick

[AZRushki]

Originally Posted by CorkSport 61.2% officially We received our CARB EO number today for the intakes. -Derrick

so when's dat der FMIC going up ^_^

[CorkSport]

Originally Posted by AZRushki so when's dat der FMIC going up ^_^

The product listing is still under construction right now. I should have it finished up tomorrow. I need to check with our engineer Jake to find out when it will go live.

Originally Posted by Nataphen Hey, Derrick, if you use the CS koozie to insulate the SRI, does it drop IATs?

Yes they do!

Need a few extras?

My daughter decided to steal a bunch of them I had an she covered her arms and legs in them, it was really funny.

-Derrick

[Nataphen]

Hey, Derrick, if you use the CS koozie to insulate the SRI, does it drop IATs?

[Nataphen]

My daughter wears it for a bracelet all the time. I think I actually got to use it on one beer before she staked her claim.

[DONOTBUGME]

I am dumping my K&N intake for the SURE. For the reason that it was not designed for the MS3, its just thier sport compact intake. The K&N has a huge bend almost 90 degrees and no air straitner like every other mazda specifc intake has. I have run the K&N for 12,000 miles with no cels though. Will post if there is any difference when I get the SURE towards the end of JAN...Red is backorder.

[BLK_MS3]

I'm torn. If you guys were to buy an SRI like now, what would you get. Sure or CP-E? I don't think I can go wrong with either?

[smitty5788]

SURE is much better quality than CPE. I have had them both in my hand.

[Click Here]

For whatever it's worth you can find the cpe products below their MSRP from their retailers. So unless you absolutely need to buy direct, you can find intakes like the Nano for below MSRP, AND free shipping. Example here:

CPE XcelNANO™ Air Intake for Mazdaspeed 3 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

And to the guys shopping for an intake based on the dyno charts...don't. First, there's so much variance from each dyno, even if they're conducted honestly, you simply can't make any determinations from the numbers. You show me one dyno that indicates a 20 horsepower gain, and I'll show you another that shows 10 horsepower. Don't buy into the marketing game.

Second, any difference in actual horsepower gains between intakes are going to be mostly a function of a change in engine load, which is attributed to how the MAF sensor functions in the new MAF housing (which is actually moot once you start tuning). In other words, I can show you an intake that makes more power than the rest of the bunch, but my fuel trims might be jacked as a result. Trying to argue that a 5 horsepower difference between intakes is due to less bends, or less piping is ludicrous. It's ignition timing and boost folks...which is based on calculated engine load.

What you should care about in shopping for an intake are the average fuel trims reported from other people (use the search button!!), the quality of construction, and the appearance. If your fuel trims are close to zero and the intake is well made, then you bought a good intake. If you think Brand "X" used some magical process to make their aluminum pipe less restrictive than the others, well, you're beyond help, lol.

Originally Posted by smitty5788 SURE is much better quality than CPE. I have had them both in my hand.

Really?

I find it interesting that you failed to mention that you had to add silicone to the MAF housing in order to get it to seal properly.

Originally Posted by cpolly69 Mark, I don't believe any of the information you have posted there has to do with the problem. I believe the issue is the maf sensor leaking at the point at which the o-ring seals the air in...Smitty was able to add some rtv around his maf and stop the leak - fixing his trims.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...43/index2.html

So I'm curious to hear despite the sealing issues you encountered with the SURE intake, how it was still "much better quality" than the Nano? Honest question.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Click Here For whatever it's worth you can find the cpe products below their MSRP from their retailers. So unless you absolutely need to buy direct, you can find intakes like the Nano for below MSRP, AND free shipping. Example here: CPE XcelNANO™ Air Intake for Mazdaspeed 3 - Revolution Performance Motorsports! And to the guys shopping for an intake based on the dyno charts...don't. First, there's so much variance from each dyno, even if they're conducted honestly, you simply can't make any determinations from the numbers. You show me one dyno that indicates a 20 horsepower gain, and I'll show you another that shows 10 horsepower. Don't buy into the marketing game. Second, any difference in actual horsepower gains between intakes are going to be mostly a function of a change in engine load, which is attributed to how the MAF sensor functions in the new MAF housing (which is actually moot once you start tuning). In other words, I can show you an intake that makes more power than the rest of the bunch, but my fuel trims might be jacked as a result. Trying to argue that a 5 horsepower difference between intakes is due to less bends, or less piping is ludicrous. It's ignition timing and boost folks...which is based on calculated engine load. What you should care about in shopping for an intake are the average fuel trims reported from other people (use the search button!!), the quality of construction, and the appearance. If your fuel trims are close to zero and the intake is well made, then you bought a good intake. If you think Brand "X" used some magical process to make their aluminum pipe less restrictive than the others, well, you're beyond help, lol. Really? I find it interesting that you failed to mention that you had to add silicone to the MAF housing in order to get it to seal properly. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...43/index2.html So I'm curious to hear despite the sealing issues you encountered with the SURE intake, how it was still "much better quality" than the Nano? Honest question.

good post... what i'm more after is what intake has caused the least amount of problems with throwing codes. The K&N seems to be less... from what I have searched and read anyway.

As far as the Nano and the standard CAI... that seems like people just want to be able to say they have a CP-E brand... what the point is of making the Nano vs. the CAI I don't quite get but, the prices on all of these things are quite high.

[guitarist302008]

can someone tell me what the hell is a TIP?

[PapaSmurf]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 can someone tell me what the hell is a TIP?

Turbo Inlet Pipe

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by MicaBlueMS3 Turbo Inlet Pipe

DUH!! I should have gotten that one lol... can't believe I missed it. I'm looking at intakes and searching around trying to find one that won't throw a cel.

thanks for the help btw.

[guitarist302008]

ok so reading all of the posts here, is there a specific intake that is proven to not throw a cel or does it really all depend on the car itself?

[Nataphen]

The intakes that are designed specifically for the car, like CPE, Corksport, COBB, etc. almost never throw a CEL, but anything is possible. Many people that run the intakes without an air straightener never get a CEL either though.

The main thing to remember is to drive the car around normally for several miles to let the ECU adjust the trims for the new airflow. Some say just a few miles, but I think that it takes more like 75+ for the trims to totally settle down.

When I installed my catback, it took almost 100 miles before the car felt right again between 4-5k RPM, and that's less change than what an intake makes. Give it a while if it doesn't feel just right.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Nataphen The intakes that are designed specifically for the car, like CPE, Corksport, COBB, etc. almost never throw a CEL, but anything is possible. Many people that run the intakes without an air straightener never get a CEL either though. The main thing to remember is to drive the car around normally for several miles to let the ECU adjust the trims for the new airflow. Some say just a few miles, but I think that it takes more like 75+ for the trims to totally settle down. When I installed my catback, it took almost 100 miles before the car felt right again between 4-5k RPM, and that's less change than what an intake makes. Give it a while if it doesn't feel just right.

thanks for all the info... I was close to ordering the SURE intake, but shipping is 24.00 minimum... and i'm just not paying that... which places sell one of the better intakes and don't have these outrageous prices?

On a side note... how about the K&N Typhoon intake? I read a guy that said he didn't have any CEL issues with his and that is an intake I could likely get quite a bit off of because it's for many other cars.

Lastly.. if I buy an intake and a TIP, will the car need a fuel pump with any further mods? Driving untuned with this is ok?, and lastly... would I need the RMM at that point as well? Sorry for all the questions... i'm not looking to go mod crazy, just to get the car a little closer to what I am used to.

[Nataphen]

RMM was my first mod, I highly recommend it. I have the CPE 75, but there are several good choices out there. You don't need a tune to run an intake, just let the ECU relearn the trims before you go balls to the wall.

I would give the SURE intake a little more time, there are a few people having issues with it right now. They will fix it soon, I'm sure. If you want one right now, I'd go with CP-E, Corksport, or Cobb. I don't know much about the Typhoon intake, but I'd go with one of the companies that I mentioned to be certain. They specialize in more Mazda specific tuning rather than run of the mill intakes.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Nataphen RMM was my first mod, I highly recommend it. I have the CPE 75, but there are several good choices out there. You don't need a tune to run an intake, just let the ECU relearn the trims before you go balls to the wall. I would give the SURE intake a little more time, there are a few people having issues with it right now. They will fix it soon, I'm sure. If you want one right now, I'd go with CP-E, Corksport, or Cobb. I don't know much about the Typhoon intake, but I'd go with one of the companies that I mentioned to be certain. They specialize in more Mazda specific tuning rather than run of the mill intakes.

so the RMM, intake, and TIP do not need a tune for the 2010's then? Just making sure i'm safe... i'd stay with that for quite a while.

[Nataphen]

No tune needed for that stuff.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Nataphen No tune needed for that stuff.

excellent man, thanks for all of the answers, really appreciate it.

[guitarist302008]

so many choices on the intakes... the cp-e's look nice, but 329.00? That seems really high, but maybe it's that much better... I don't know. I have read so many conflicting issues about the corksport throwing cel's that i'm not sure about them, but i'd like to get the CAI, the TIP and the RMM all from the same place if possible... unless someone else makes a better TIP and someone else makes a better RMM... any websites that sell multiple brands of the different parts? Is it possible I could just add the DP and TP instead of the intake and TIP right now, and add power that way, or will that throw codes too? I'm confused

[2010Speed3]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 so many choices on the intakes... the cp-e's look nice, but 329.00? That seems really high, but maybe it's that much better... I don't know. I have read so many conflicting issues about the corksport throwing cel's that i'm not sure about them, but i'd like to get the CAI, the TIP and the RMM all from the same place if possible... unless someone else makes a better TIP and someone else makes a better RMM... any websites that sell multiple brands of the different parts? Is it possible I could just add the DP and TP instead of the intake and TIP right now, and add power that way, or will that throw codes too? I'm confused

Yeah I definitely wouldn't do a DP without a tune, because you WILL get a CEL. I have the CorkSport SRI/TIP, UR test pipe, and UR catback and I don't have a CEL. If you want to do a couple of safe mods for now, go with the SRI and RMM. TIP is not entirely necessary if you are strapped for money. StreetUnit.com has a bunch of different products, but I believe they are the parent company of SURE.

I was just as worried as you were a 6 months ago. Just go with companies with solid products, and you won't be disappointed. Also, a lot of CEL's are caused by error in installation or leak somewhere. There's always support from the vendors and people on here!

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 Yeah I definitely wouldn't do a DP without a tune, because you WILL get a CEL. I have the CorkSport SRI/TIP, UR test pipe, and UR catback and I don't have a CEL. If you want to do a couple of safe mods for now, go with the SRI and RMM. TIP is not entirely necessary if you are strapped for money. StreetUnit.com has a bunch of different products, but I believe they are the parent company of SURE. I was just as worried as you were a 6 months ago. Just go with companies with solid products, and you won't be disappointed. Also, a lot of CEL's are caused by error in installation or leak somewhere. There's always support from the vendors and people on here!

wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.