2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 performance air intake discussion

[2010Speed3]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.

I haven't gotten a tune yet, but I have the Cobb AccessPort on the way and I just have to wait for them to release the firmware update on it. (Check the ECU Tuning threads for more info) It's recommended to get a high performance fuel pump (HPFP) if you start tuning the car, so you can reach the maximum potential of the tune. It's imperative that you have a HPFP if you are running a DP though...

FYI, all that I just wrote was from my experience and reading things on the forum. I'm not an expert at tuning or modifying.

[Speed3eak]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 wow, so you had the SRI, TIP, TP, and Catback and have had no CEL's at all? That's pretty interesting. Did you get a tune for these mods? If not, did you need a fuel pump for them? Just wondering at what power level that the fuel pump will be necessary.

I don't mean to be a dick, but you should be able to find out that none of those things throw a CEL by spending some time reading around about them.

Intake doesn't cause a CEL if the MAF diameter is close/the same
TP doesn't cause a CEL because it's behind the second O2 sensor, same for the catback

Fuel pump is usually needed (on the stock tune) after intake+TMIC/FMIC+DP (on gen 1's actually, gen 2 seems to be more like after intake+TMIC/FMIC or intake+downpipe). Changing the second cat or behind the second cat doesn't seem to put enough of a strain on the fuel system to require a new pump.

If you plan on raising boost, you should get a fuel pump. Even with just an intake.

If you're wondering about getting a fuel pump, you should at least get a method by which you can datalog. fuel pump is needed if your fuel pressure falls beneath 1600 psi @ wide open throttle, regardless of level of modifications.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by Speed3eak I don't mean to be a dick, but you should be able to find out that none of those things throw a CEL by spending some time reading around about them. Intake doesn't cause a CEL if the MAF diameter is close/the same TP doesn't cause a CEL because it's behind the second O2 sensor, same for the catback Fuel pump is usually needed (on the stock tune) after intake+TMIC/FMIC+DP (on gen 1's actually, gen 2 seems to be more like after intake+TMIC/FMIC or intake+downpipe). Changing the second cat or behind the second cat doesn't seem to put enough of a strain on the fuel system to require a new pump. If you plan on raising boost, you should get a fuel pump. Even with just an intake. If you're wondering about getting a fuel pump, you should at least get a method by which you can datalog. fuel pump is needed if your fuel pressure falls beneath 1600 psi @ wide open throttle, regardless of level of modifications.

well while we're on the subject... how do you like the K&N CAI you are using?

[DONOTBUGME]

go with the cp-e sri then, you can buy the rmm and tip from cpe.

[Nataphen]

Most people don't have any trouble out of the Corksport, just lots of people don't install them properly and blame the product. Corksport also has excellent customer service. They will work with you until you get everything working to your satisfaction.

CP-E and COBB have the highest quality products, but they are also more expensive. CP-E and COBB have great tech support too, so it's really all up to you. I can comfortably recommend all three of those intakes and companies to deal with.

[ridenfish39]

Dude, go with the Corksport intake. They all do the same thing and produce the same gains. The Corksport is the best deal at $240 since it comes with the inlet. It is a bit loud because of the aluminum inlet, but I like it. You really hear the bpv, even the stocker.
I have had it on my car for 15 k miles with no cel. The only problem I had was when I put the HKS bpv on I knocked the air straightener loose and it fell out into the filter. The car ran like shit until I figured it out, haven't had a problem since.

[mghtymouse380]

guitarist302008:
IF you are so worried about the FP then the first mod that you need to do is a HPFP and be done with it. Then you can go on your merry modding way. It isnt to early to do the fuel pump. All I have is a intake and a ETS TMIC and I upgraded my FP just to do it early so there would be no worries. And read man. No offense but you have asked the same questions like 10 times. Read and then choose. I am pretty sure I know why you dont have the evo anymore. Just pay attention.

[Nataphen]

We've all answered your questions, now quit being scared to touch your car, and move on. Mod it if you dare, don't if you're a bitch. There, I said it. You could have found all your answers by reading here, I'm tired of reanswering your questions.

Being a newb is one thing, but you're getting on my nerves.

[_Toxic_]

I have the K&N SRI Typhoon... great quality no CELs, no problems yet. car runs great!

[Speed3eak]

Using the stock TIP - no CELs so far.

Only have 3k miles with the typhoon in though.

The only thing I would change about it would be:

1.) Open filter - looks like this:


On the k&n kit I got, the top is closed, so it can only draw in air around the outside.

2.) Air straightener

I'm actually going to pick up an air straightener from haltech once he sends me the measurement for it, so I can let you know how that goes.

If there were the same price, I would be tempted by the heat shield, but would probably go with one of the other options in the end. But, like I said - If I was doing it all over again, I would just go ahead and get a 3" I.D. MAF housing and a k&n conical filter, along with a 45 degree coupler/reducer so I could use the stock TIP.

The corksport kit is great, but I like an oiled filter because oil carries with it a slight positive charge, so it can trap more particulate matter with the same porosity as a dry flow filter. If you don't overdo it with the oil, it really shouldn't get onto the MAF. Most people like dry-flow just to be safe though.

Really, just get one. They're all pretty much identical in terms of price and function. Cobb has the air straightener in the filter, so it makes it more difficult to find a replacement filter, so I'd go with either SURE or cp-e. My personal choice would be cp-e nano at this point, if I was going with a stock MAF diameter housing.

[rfinkle2]

i got a k&n and the maf housing machining was way too shoddy for me to even install the kit.

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 i got a k&n and the maf housing machining was way too shoddy for me to even install the kit.

The CP-E is 330.... the Typhoon is 321... so about the same price... the Typhoon is showing a better power gain.


UPDATE: My parts guy can get me the Typhoon kit for 255.00 shipped... go for it?

By the way, if anyone else is looking for parts from places such as Turbo XS, or your other more name companies, let me know and i'll get you some pricing and i'll hook you up with him. He gets VERY good prices for me though and everything has always been excellent.

[DONOTBUGME]

actually the cp-e sri is 199, and read my post back on page two. For the tip look in my sig

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by donotbugme actually the cp-e sri is 199, and read my post back on page two. For the tip look in my sig

where is the CP-E 199? Their site says 329.00.

[DONOTBUGME]

cai is 329, sri is 199...MazdaSPEED3 Gen2 XcelNANO™ Air Intake
MMS32XN
$199.00

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by donotbugme cai is 329, sri is 199...MazdaSPEED3 Gen2 XcelNANO™ Air Intake MMS32XN $199.00

yeah, I didn't think the Nano picked up as much power as the other though.

[ridenfish39]

Don't believe all their dyno bullshit. All the intakes probably give you about 15 hp. If you want loud, get an aluminum tip, otherwise get silicone.
This discussion is starting to get old............

[guitarist302008]

ummmm... this is the intake discussion lol

[guitarist302008]

I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

[mghtymouse380]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

For having a bolted evo you really dont know much. You dont need a filter cover on a SRI. It is just fine. Unless you submerge it, but by that time your whole engine is under water so it really doesnt matter. So just get the intake. I have it and have had 0 Problems.

[clowncar]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I think i'm gonna go with the Nano... any issues with CEL's for those running them? It's asking if I want the water repelant pre-filer... do I? Or is that just the filter that I need?

Would you just buy a fucking intake? Jesus Christ....

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by clowncar Would you just buy a fucking intake? Jesus Christ....

I did... and go fuck yourself

[mghtymouse380]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I did... and go fuck yourself

Make sure that you pay someone to install it so it gets done right.

[ridenfish39]

Originally Posted by guitarist302008 I did...

And......did it throw that cel you were so worried about????

[guitarist302008]

Originally Posted by ridenfish39 And......did it throw that cel you were so worried about????

don't know... it just got here today... I didn't have time to install it... had to finish painting the bathroom.

[DONOTBUGME]

You do know that no matter what size the funnel is it will only flow as much as the straw it is attached to. Get a turbo inlet pipe.

[2010Speed3]

Originally Posted by donotbugme You do know that no matter what size the funnel is it will only flow as much as the straw it is attached to. Get a turbo inlet pipe.

Well put sir! I've had to explain to people why I got the TIP, and that's a great analogy!

[Speed3eak]

I'll be the first in line to get a TIP when someone can show a consistent gain in MAF g/s from adding one.

Until then I'll put that money towards something else. The increase in response time isn't really worth it to me, this turbo spools fast enough as it is.

[Silver Ecstasy]

No matter how much you increase in efficiency of flow on the intake side, there will always be the ECU to counter-adjust. Regardless of how retarded/stupid the stock TIP looks, it was designed for a reason. There's no reason a manufacturer would design a forced induction car that still needs decent MPG, then smash a kink in the air flow "just to be a dick" about it. Sort've like the "3 inch exhaust is too much for our stock turbos" conversation. That inlet/maf sizing may actually be completely perfect for the stock turbo/spool. The intake side opening up may help the most by accessing more air and easier.

On the 1st Gen I had with SRI/TIP, WG DC% was constantly "compensating" for the quicker spool of the TIP, or it not spooling fast enough per ECU calculations. In other words, WG DC% were in overdrive with my SRI/TIP. With just the SRI, wastegate activity remained civil and Boost was build and released with minor tweaks by the wastegate.

[Speed3eak]

I went out and got a crappy digital caliper from autozone, plus it was difficult to get a consistent reading - fluctuated up and down a bit.

K&N I.D. is 2.676" in photo, most likely 2.678" in reality.



Next on the list of to-do's is to measure stft and ltft, then maybe get an air straightener if I don't like what I'm seeing.

[DONOTBUGME]

I think the AEM air strainter is 2.5. I really want to to see the ltft/stft are for the K&N.

[indianaryan]

It doesn't look like there are very many people that are for the Corksport. It includes the TIP correct? What do the other intakes have that justify the extra expense? In my mind, if it works, I don't really care what it looks like. I understand that others might be higher quality, but I'm not really asking it to do a whole lot other than not throw codes.

[Nataphen]

The CS SRI+TIP combo is the best bang for your buck out of the popular choices. They are well built, maybe not quite as nice as CPE or Cobb, but still good. Almost everyone that has them is happy with them, and I doubt that you would ever be any more likely to have problems out of them than any other intake.

You should see the same gains from any of the three most popular choices, CPE, Cobb, CS. The CS is louder than the other two because it has an aluminum TIP, but that's about the only thing that's going to be different.

[indianaryan]

K&N filters aren't that much money by themselves. If someone wanted to they could replace the Corksport filter with a K&N oiled filter. I doubt anyone can really tell the difference between the two.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by indianaryan K&N filters aren't that much money by themselves. If someone wanted to they could replace the Corksport filter with a K&N oiled filter. I doubt anyone can really tell the difference between the two.

Why? Oiled filters are the worst ones. They can let oil get on your MAF which causes all sorts of issues. Dry is much better....

[indianaryan]

Originally Posted by BLK MS3 Why? Oiled filters are the worst ones. They can let oil get on your MAF which causes all sorts of issues. Dry is much better....

I was really just stating that someone COULD swap the filter if they really wanted an oiled filter. I'll admit that I don't know which is really better. I know there are pros and cons for each one.

I will say that I find it hard to believe that someone could get oil on the MAF sensor unless they doused the the filter in oil. If you only oil the outside of the filter, you shouldn't have a problem.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by indianaryan I was really just stating that someone COULD swap the filter if they really wanted an oiled filter. I'll admit that I don't know which is really better. I know there are pros and cons for each one. I will say that I find it hard to believe that someone could get oil on the MAF sensor unless they doused the the filter in oil. If you only oil the outside of the filter, you shouldn't have a problem.

It is a known issue to get oil on the MAF. The air suction is massive and the K&N is cotton based. Not to hard suck oil through it, and it takes very little to mess up an MAF. The dry filters are just safer, hence why SURE is making it an option too.

[indianaryan]

Originally Posted by BLK MS3 It is a known issue to get oil on the MAF. The air suction is massive and the K&N is cotton based. Not to hard suck oil through it, and it takes very little to mess up an MAF. The dry filters are just safer, hence why SURE is making it an option too.

I guess I would be wrong if I said it couldn't happen, because I know there are people out there that have had this happen to them. You're correct that a dry filter IS the safer option, hence the reason why most filters are not oiled. Still, the chances of getting oil on the MAF sensor have to be pretty low. That being said, I'll probably stick with a dry filter anyway. Like I said before, I doubt there is a noticable difference in performance.

[Nataphen]

It is a matter of preference, but it is a known problem for an oiled cotton filter to get oil on the MAF sensor. I would recommend a dry filter, but it's up to the individual.

[16-driver]

I got the corksport cause it was cheap and it included the tip. But I want to get rid of my tip cause the gains aren't really there and you get tired of the noise if it's your daily driver. I want to uninstall it cause it will make my demod much faster without it if or when I decide to pay the dealership a visit.

Pm me if you newbs want it for dirt cheat... Like pay the shipping and buy me lunch.