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![]() | | #241 | ![]() |
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I would venture to say you want to secure your MAF a little better - it is quite fragile and I don't know how well it'll hold up if/when you hit a pothole or how silicone will hold up over time. I don't see anything wrong with a homebrew intake if you can keep your MAF well secured against movement relative to the pipe, and if you have a way to tune for it. If you don't have a way to tune for it, you should at least make sure the MAF diameter is very close to stock. What throws a code isn't the MAF recognizing that the diameter of the pipe is too large or too small, it's the variance of the fuel trims in closed loop/part throttle driving. Note that fuel trims are measured using percentages, which use decimal places. Think about what that means - the ECU can detect a fraction of a percentage change in air coming into the engine by analyzing the exhaust output of that engine. While having sensors this accurate is great for closed loop driving - it lets the ECU target stoich and get the best possible gas mileage - it also means that when we enter open loop (ecu doesn't adjust for what it sees), fueling or other parameters of the engine can become dangerous and significantly reduce the longevity of your engine. That particular CEL isn't to protect the engine in CL operation IMO - it serves as a warning to avoid OL until you can get the issue addressed. If you don't plan on getting a tuning device, I'd get one of the popular brands of SRI - cobb, cp-e, corksport, etc. K&N is too expensive for an intake without an air straightener. Cobb has the straightener in the filter, and idk how long the filter will last so buying a replacement filter may or may not become a problem/be expensive. As for the cobb vs. k&n claims - the dyno sheet that came with my k&n shows the 24 hp gain is the largest gain along the powerband, not the peak gain. I also got the K&N when they were going for $171+shipping, and it comes with a heat shield, so at the time it offered the best value proposition. FWIW, I think the MAF diameter in the cobb is larger than stock for both gen 1 and gen 2. Guys are running it no problem without any codes, but some people have gotten a code. The code people get from intakes comes from having their ltft's get too far out of wack. This wouldn't be a problem if the car stayed in closed loop all the time, but because it does operate in OL at WOT, The ECU doesn't compensate for extra air when it is most important to do so. You could configure the car to operate in CL at WOT with the cobb AP, but if you're going to use an AP anyway, then it's 100x easier to just calibrate your MAF. As for the temperature differences between SRI vs. CAI - while I'm sure your BATs will be hotter with a SRI, I'm not aware of anyone being able to demonstrate a consistent difference in power between the two. And, at the end of the day, we're concerned with power. We only learn and discuss all of this other stuff so we can go faster. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Dizzy Turbo Okay. Now that I look at you, you only have 3 posts.. I'll be nice. I don't think your custom intake is safe.
__________________ 2010 Mazdaspeed3 Cobb AP - CP-E SRI - Ultimate Racing TP - CP-E RMM 75D - JBR RSB - JBR SSP - Autotech HPFP Internal - Denso ITV22 - Advan RZ 18x8 (Conti ExtremeContact DW 235/40/18) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thank you for useful information this time. This is my first car actually worth sinking money/time into when i have it available. the pipe diameter is the same and the hole was die grinded so that the o ring on the maf alone secures it tightly and silicone was added just as extra, at least until i get paid and can get a proper one. I will probably go with the corksport one, thank you for the feedback. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Also, i know it is impossible to tell without any sort of readings or data, but in your opinion, do you guys think that intake will hold for a couple weeks to a month until i can get a new one or should i put airbox back on. Ive also been reading and it seems i need to start saving for a rmm also |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The question is more of a risk / reward question. Is 15 HP worth the potential cost of damage? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well that's where my problem is. I am unaware of what damages could occur from this intake, only thing I can think of is the sensor getting innaccurate readings, but I do not know what damage that will do. Anyone care to enlighten me? |
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We don't know exactly what will / won't happen. I can tell you that a new maf sensor is as much as the intake or rmm you are saving for. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thank you very much for your input. I just joined this forum and after the first reply i got was negative I figured this would be just another forum full of people who have a superiority complex and think they know it all. I appreciate all the useful info i got from multiple people. As for the sensor, the garage i work at gets a hefty discount on stock parts so i think im just gonna stick it out till i get money. Ill let yall know if things get messy haha. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score CEL just came on, bummer because there is no difference in performance that i can notice. Oh well back to stock i suppose haha |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Your fuel trims were way off if they caused a cel. If you have the opportunity, and feel the site will save you some $ on installs etc. in the long run, please donate a couple bucks to keep it all going. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Well I was attempting to order the Cobb SRI but their website is down and no one answers the phone. Not cool.... So I went ahead with the CP-E and I will post pics and my thoughts after install and hopefully later down the road as well. On a side note on the dry vs. oiled filter debate, the LS series of engines is more susceptible to oil getting on the MAF because of the grid style design of the MAF. There is a huge amount of surface area that the oil can get stuck on. I ran a K&N CAI on my 04 GTO for a long time with no problems what so ever, but I am always really light on the oil after I clean those filters. Anyways, those guys a poor example to cite because their MAF is of a completely different design than ours. The guys running FI on those cars don't even use the stock MAF, they get the 2 bar MAP out of the Cobalt SS and tune with that. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I recently picked up a K&N SRI (69-6012TS) and I thought it'd be worth taking measurements of the intake, in comparison to stock. The coupler then sizes down to 2.5" to fit the stock TIP. *EDIT* I'm not sure this is the 69-6012TS kit now, since this is sized for the 1st Gen's stock air box.. hmm..
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hi guys, been running a Spectre MAF hsg part # 9405 with the 2.5'' reducer it came with for almost two years now and have had no cel yet knock on wood.[IMG]IMG00129[/IMG] : ) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ok guys so i just sat here and read through seven pages of stuff and man it gets confusing.lol. everybody has there own opinion i guess.well let me ask now.i am brand new to this car.just bought a brand new 2011 speed3 and man do i love this car.im not really a noob to the turbo world as i had a sr20det powered 240sx before.anyways im buying a intake soon and i think im set on the injen cai i just dont understand this talk about a air straightner and fuel trim issues.why do i need a air straightner? and do i really need to worry about some fuel trim thingy issue with a name brand cai like injen? since yall know more about this car then me (well some of you) i just wanted to ask. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You need an air straightener so the MAF can get a proper reading of the air going into your motor. If you fuel trims are off too much it will cause a CEL. Wacky fuel trims also mean your car will not be able to hit the desired AFRs, which can cause problems at WOT (i.e. KR = boom boom) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I noticed Cobbs' AP has maps for what they think are the 7 best CAI on the gen 2 speed3. I have searched for the answer to this and even called Cobb twice but could not get anyone at the time to answer with any confidence. Can you use the Cobb AP with Injen CAI? And or use one of the other maps for a CAI that is similar to the Injen. It doesn't sound promising. And no Im not going to switch I takes and get the sri because i have had the Cobb and 2 others on the AP list and they don't come close to the real performance the full CAI Injen has-that's why I tossed them. And yes I know- fucking DONATE!! I will-it's only my 3-4 fucking day super mod call everyone outs donate this make dip shit comments that. Anyone that has a useful answer to my question would be cool to hear from you....or if you are a VIP super mod legend and want to nerd out and talk shit behind your keyboard go ahead and do that too i love it!!!
__________________ Most of the time I do what I want too..other times I do what I have too. |
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You can use the cobb AP with any intake HOW TO CALIBRATE YOUR MAF! With An Example I had a hard time getting through it so I hope there isn't anything important after the question about injen compatibility. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i got the k&N cai typhoon sounds looks and performs amazing. i have had it for about a month no problems......till now i just got a CEL i havent got a diagnostics test on it so idk if its my intake but i did the cheap thing and just reset my car and the light went away ha
__________________ 2008 speed3 GT k&n CAI other wise stock for now |
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__________________ Most of the time I do what I want too..other times I do what I have too. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a hacked up suby maf housing with an AEM dryflow and an AEM air straightener. No CEL. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The link in my post contains instructions on how to calibrate your AP for your particular intake. The only real difference between different OTS maps is the MAF calibration - how the car turns voltage into MAF g/s numbers - and you can do your own calibration without too much trouble. You'll need to download ATR though - I forget if you need to e-mail cobb or if they have a form on their site under the AP product page that you fill out, but one way or another you'll need ATR. With boost tuning it's actually pretty easy to tune your car yourself - yeah, it won't be as good as a pro-tune, but it'll be better than an OTS map in terms of how much power you make and how safe your tune is. Plus, it's $free.99 so that's always nice. edit: You can also just run whatever OTS map is closest to your intake - if you have a way of measuring the inside diameter of your MAF housing then you can just go with whatever intake is closest to that. There are photos of those somewhere on this site I think, but off the top of my head the Cobb intake is 2.75" and the rest are 2.67" or so. If you really don't want to open ATR and you have no way of measuring the MAF housing I.D., then you can always compare the ltft's of different maps - just load the map and drive for ~50 miles, whichever map has the lowest long term fuel trims is the one for you. ATR is way quicker though, and just about as easy. At the guy above me, good for you? I take it you're on the stock tune, I was talking about AP maps. FWIW CEL goes off when your trims (ltft) are greater than +/- 15% or something ridiculous. You probably shouldn't go WOT if they're more than +/- 8%, as per cobb, but on the stock tune requested AFRs at WOT are so rich you'll probably be fine on the stock TBE. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How's everyones COBB SRI fuel trims on the 2010's? (Without COBB AP maf recalibrations?)
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Never mind, I figured out that CS had an older version of the TIP that had a slightly smaller fitting. Anyone have any fitment issues with the corksport SRI? I used to have the CS sri until I got bored and purchased a cp-e nano. I got bored of the nano again and went back to the cs sri (to run with the cold air box) but during the install of the corksport, the BPV hose that connects to the TIP from the BPV fits loose. I don't recall having this issue originally when I purchased the corksport or even with the nano. I can slide the hose all the way onto the TIP tube and the oem clamp that is supposed to be re-used does not clamp down enough to create a perfect seal. I ended up moving the clamp all the way down to the hose (toward the bpv) in order to create a seal. I still don't feel 100% comfortable with the way the hose sits on the TIP right now. Just wondering if anyone had any issues like this. Should I look into a new bypass valve hose? Is the clamp worn out? It's odd because I just uninstalled the stock TIP and the fitment was fine.
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know I'm gonna get mad shitty responses from this question alright. I searched with every key word and phrase I could but could not fnd the answer. I installed the Injen CAI on my 11" ms3 and just recently only in like 2nd gear mid to high rpm it jerks or like cuts out. It doesn't happen often but it happens. Please don't respond with some lame thing like you should have gotten a Corksport or CP-e or Cobb Sri instead. Well here is some news- i have had those and they performed worse overall if you add everything up. I checked for leaks but cannot find any.. I dont know man...someone must have had something similar happen somewhere. Thanks for the help and criticism!! Lol
__________________ Most of the time I do what I want too..other times I do what I have too. |
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FWIW, all of the intakes work extremely well for this car. If you have tried several intakes with poor results, theres a different problem. Could also quite possibly be your TIP is loose. That'll be $10, please.
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold | |
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Just go get a worm clamp if its fitting loosely.
__________________ 2011 Liquid Silver Corksport SRI/TIP/AIRBOX Ultimate Racing catback JBR stage 2 shift kit SURE RMM | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Injen doesn't utilize air straightener. Anything smaller than stock doesn't need one.
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks for all the feedback. It has stopped doing it right now but who knows if it will start again. The clamps appear to be really tight but I will check them again. I did notice one clamp on the TIP that kinda moved sideways the harder I tightened it down. Maybe that's the small leak. I only have 2300 miles on it so I'm not sure if it's the fuel pump shitting out-but who knows again.
__________________ Most of the time I do what I want too..other times I do what I have too. |
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Honestly, it's really easy to remove the battery box and check the TIP, but I'd probably just stock out and see if it's still a problem.
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I cannot monitor trims yet no. I have an Injen CAI, HTP TIP, Cobb down pipe, oil catch can, and some interior shit. I would say you might be helping me because at one point you were probably a brownie to unless of course you were born with a new speed3 and a computer chip in your brain that gave you all the answers and a fat wallet to afford all this crap. Other than that I think it's probably the fact that sometime in history you were a brownie too. Thanks
__________________ Most of the time I do what I want too..other times I do what I have too. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score We were all brownies until we realized the value of this site. |
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I'm still a brownie on the inside. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok, I'm torn... CP-E Xcel cold air intake Sure Aeros I know they are total opposite sides of the spectrum as far as intakes go, but thats what I've narrowed it down to for me. I've heard a lot of good and bad things about CP-E. I've also heard nothing but good (except for parts being back-ordered) about SURE. So what would would you choose?
__________________ 2012 Toyota Tacoma |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score SURE Aeros, i'm waiting also.
__________________ Mike 2008.5 CWP Mazda CX-7 Sport FWD - hers 2008.5 CWP Mazdaspeed 3 GT - traded 2011 LSM Mazdaspeed 3 Sport w/tech pkg - sold |
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![]() | | #279 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I will most likely have my Corksport intake for sale soon... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So im confused with the cobb intake i have on right now. At idle stft are at 0.7+/-...but my ltft is at +10... boost is holding fine the afr is fine... ive checked for leaks nothing... wtf? lol no cel... but i dont like the ltft at +12 @ Wot.... lol
__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 BNR S4 and supporting mods 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 Bolt on's and tune 2015 Taurus S.H.O Intake/Tune 2016 Ford Explorer Sport Stock |
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