2010+ Mazdaspeed 3 performance air intake discussion

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bigjimms6 So im confused with the cobb intake i have on right now. At idle stft are at 0.7+/-...but my ltft is at +10... boost is holding fine the afr is fine... ive checked for leaks nothing... wtf? lol no cel... but i dont like the ltft at +12 @ Wot.... lol

Do you have any plans on getting an AP?

[Silver Ecstasy]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 You should be making plans on getting an AP

Corrected, hehe.

[BigJimMs3]

Originally Posted by rfinkle2 Do you have any plans on getting an AP?

wish i kept my ap.......... smh...... but as of right this second no.... i want too though.... i should lol

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bigjimms6 wish i kept my ap.......... smh...... but as of right this second no.... i want too though.... i should lol

Those trims aren't going to be that big of a problem. Just keep an eye on things with your
current montioring device in regards to KR and AFR, especially @ wot.

[BigJimMs3]

i have a aeroforce scan gauge i can see everything besides kr.... but i mean ive felt fuel cut/ bad kr.... back in my gen1 ms3...when i was stage 2 with no colder plugs...... that feeling i never want again lol thanks guys

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bigjimms6 i have a aeroforce scan gauge i can see everything besides kr.... but i mean ive felt fuel cut/ bad kr.... back in my gen1 ms3...when i was stage 2 with no colder plugs...... that feeling i never want again lol thanks guys

They are working on getting all of the pids working for gen2 cars as I type.

You can send your gauge back soon and have it reflashed.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...io-area-83509/

[Toymachinespeed]

Originally Posted by dizzydtrain Never mind, I figured out that CS had an older version of the TIP that had a slightly smaller fitting. Anyone have any fitment issues with the corksport SRI? I used to have the CS sri until I got bored and purchased a cp-e nano. I got bored of the nano again and went back to the cs sri (to run with the cold air box) but during the install of the corksport, the BPV hose that connects to the TIP from the BPV fits loose. I don't recall having this issue originally when I purchased the corksport or even with the nano. I can slide the hose all the way onto the TIP tube and the oem clamp that is supposed to be re-used does not clamp down enough to create a perfect seal. I ended up moving the clamp all the way down to the hose (toward the bpv) in order to create a seal. I still don't feel 100% comfortable with the way the hose sits on the TIP right now. Just wondering if anyone had any issues like this. Should I look into a new bypass valve hose? Is the clamp worn out? It's odd because I just uninstalled the stock TIP and the fitment was fine.

Well last night I installed my CS Sri and the only fitting problems I had was the tip was tough to get onto the turbo it's self. It was hard for me to get it just right on there so hopefully it holds up. But other than that like you said with your hose that your having problems with I didnt have this problem. I would look into getting a better/new sort of clamp cause it could be that it's not clamping down as hard as it should be

[dhsieh911018]

hey guys im new to the forum i have had a 2011 mazdaspeed 3 since January and looking to buy a good sri or cai. however ive talked to my dealership and it seems like they dont like me having aftermarket intake. so im consider the mazdaspeed branded cai. but it looks like they dont have a specific one that fits the 2010+. so i want to ask if anybody knows whether if the old model cai would fit the new car?? thanks guys for the replies!

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by dhsieh911018 hey guys im new to the forum i have had a 2011 mazdaspeed 3 since January and looking to buy a good sri or cai. however ive talked to my dealership and it seems like they dont like me having aftermarket intake. so im consider the mazdaspeed branded cai. but it looks like they dont have a specific one that fits the 2010+. so i want to ask if anybody knows whether if the old model cai would fit the new car?? thanks guys for the replies!

Welcome to the forums.

First of all, fuck all dealers.

Now that we got that out of the way, don't believe their shit. DO NOT get the mazdaspeed brand CAI. A SRI (short ram intake) will do just fine. Most members here go with that over CAI. You can do your own research but the most popular brands here are Cobb, CorkSport, cp-e, SURE as far as SRI's go. Difference will be in pricing and what they include. The performance will be the same practically between them.

The dealer just wants more of your money. An intake literally takes 10minutes to put back to stock if you need to. Putting aftermarket parts does NOT void your warranty. They can only deny claims, but just keep your stock parts and you'll be good.

If you become VIP in the forums by donating, you can get access to the For Sale section in which you will always find great deals on used SRI's.

[bro2]

Like adlpd said, just keep you stock parts and swap them when you go to the dealer. It take 10 mins to do it.

[MSMS3]

Can't speak for gen 2 version of Mazda's own Mazdaspeed CAI, or whether they even have one. But I am a huge believer in CAI intake, and run the Mazdaspeed version on my gen 1 car. It's actually made by AEM and rebranded for Mazda. I do know that the gen 2 car has a different MAF tube diameter and matching that diameter is very important.

Not wanting to start the bitching and arguing again. Just know that regarding the general issue of CAI v. SRI there are two points of view. If you spend a lot of time in city driving or snarled in bumper to bumper slow speed commuting, or dealing with heat soak issues or staging lane delays at the drag strip, you'll appreciate that the difference between an intake drawing underhood air that can reach 140-160 degrees, compared to even 100 degree ambient air pulled from the left front fender well, becomes huge during the first 15 seconds of going WOT.

Remember that it takes 15 seconds or more for air pulled through the front grill to drop that hot under hood temps coming from that 1500 degree exhaust manifold being radiated and reflected to that SRI filter. For each 10 degree increase in temperature at the filter, there is a 1% drop in wheel horsepower. A 50 degree difference (quite realistic) is 5% of a 300 horsepower engine or 15 horsepower. That's like negating the entire gains of the intake!

Each to his own. Not trying to start the fight again. Out on the open highway or in unimpeded traffic with plenty of flow through the grill, performance is essentially equal. Under the extreme conditions I describe above, I don't want to lose those 15 horses.

[wolly6973]

Originally Posted by MSMS3 Can't speak for gen 2 version of Mazda's own Mazdaspeed CAI, or whether they even have one. But I am a huge believer in CAI intake, and run the Mazdaspeed version on my gen 1 car. It's actually made by AEM and rebranded for Mazda. I do know that the gen 2 car has a different MAF tube diameter and matching that diameter is very important. Not wanting to start the bitching and arguing again. Just know that regarding the general issue of CAI v. SRI there are two points of view. If you spend a lot of time in city driving or snarled in bumper to bumper slow speed commuting, or dealing with heat soak issues or staging lane delays at the drag strip, you'll appreciate that the difference between an intake drawing underhood air that can reach 140-160 degrees, compared to even 100 degree ambient air pulled from the left front fender well, becomes huge during the first 15 seconds of going WOT. Remember that it takes 15 seconds or more for air pulled through the front grill to drop that hot under hood temps coming from that 1500 degree exhaust manifold being radiated and reflected to that SRI filter. For each 10 degree increase in temperature at the filter, there is a 1% drop in wheel horsepower. A 50 degree difference (quite realistic) is 5% of a 300 horsepower engine or 15 horsepower. That's like negating the entire gains of the intake! Each to his own. Not trying to start the fight again. Out on the open highway or in unimpeded traffic with plenty of flow through the grill, performance is essentially equal. Under the extreme conditions I describe above, I don't want to lose those 15 horses.

My IATs are typically about 5-10 higher than ambient, so...

Not quite 50 deg diff you are talking about bud.

Also, I'm pretty sure the Mazdaspeed CAI does not have an air straightener.

[hazynighthawk]

I know they are pretty much the same . But what should i go with i am ordering one tomorrow. The SURE SRI or the Cobb SRI?

[BLK_MS3]

So now that Sure has fixed the issues, would you guys get that before the CP-E one? I wanna get an intake soon, but keep reading so many different opinions.

[Silver Ecstasy]

To be completely honest, the CP-E is fairly identical to the SURE. Major difference is, CP-E uses a silicone coupler that goes from 2.25" to 2.5" right at the TIP and angles slightly away from the motor. The SURE utilizes the full silizone reducer that is all one piece. I REALLY like the SURE piece better.

[hazynighthawk]

no one answered me =(

[mtran]

Sure

[Silver Ecstasy]

Originally Posted by hazynighthawk I know they are pretty much the same . But what should i go with i am ordering one tomorrow. The SURE SRI or the Cobb SRI?

Originally Posted by hazynighthawk no one answered me =(

To be completely honest, the CP-E is fairly identical to the SURE. Major difference is, CP-E uses a silicone coupler that goes from 2.25" to 2.5" right at the TIP and angles slightly away from the motor. The SURE utilizes the full silizone reducer that is all one piece. I REALLY like the SURE piece better.

[Buddhamonk]

I have the same issue. Can't decide cobb or sure =(

[Yeldarb]

CS Intake, TIP and Carbon Lidded Airbox. Love it!!!

[G26]

Cp-e CAI ftw.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy To be completely honest, the CP-E is fairly identical to the SURE. Major difference is, CP-E uses a silicone coupler that goes from 2.25" to 2.5" right at the TIP and angles slightly away from the motor. The SURE utilizes the full silizone reducer that is all one piece. I REALLY like the SURE piece better.

Yeah, the Sure seems to be getting a lot of good reviews now, and no CEL's.

[hazynighthawk]

i bought the cobb =p

[nick779]

Originally Posted by bigjimms6 So im confused with the cobb intake i have on right now. At idle stft are at 0.7+/-...but my ltft is at +10... boost is holding fine the afr is fine... ive checked for leaks nothing... wtf? lol no cel... but i dont like the ltft at +12 @ Wot.... lol

cobbs intake sucks, i dont even believe the maf calibration on their own OTS maps is right

[Buddhamonk]

I just bought SURE. We'll see about CEL or not

[stang9779]

Originally Posted by hazynighthawk I know they are pretty much the same . But what should i go with i am ordering one tomorrow. The SURE SRI or the Cobb SRI?

Get the CS you get more for the money, You get a tip too. If you really have you heart set on Sure or Cobb, go Cobb. Cobb is the top of the line for our cars.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 My IATs are typically about 5-10 higher than ambient, so... Not quite 50 deg diff you are talking about bud. Also, I'm pretty sure the Mazdaspeed CAI does not have an air straightener.

I can consistently demonstrate with dual digital temp sensors, one at the left wheel well and one sitting on top of the MAF sensor a 30 degree rise in underhood temps in five minutes of idling from a COLD start. I have photos of this posted in an album here. This gets worse in stop and go traffic and in commuter snarled snail crawling bumper to bumper freeway stuff. It get higher than a 50 degree spread. Think 160 degrees under the hood! And it does take at least 15 to 30 seconds of good sustained higher speed air (over 40 mph) through the front grill to bring the temps back down.

As to the air straightener, all I can say is that the complete kits for the gen 1 CAI from both Mazdaspeed and AEM have an air straightener. Everybody with a gen 1 MSCAI or AEM CAI knows this. I don't know about gen 2. Don't even know if Mazda even has a CAI out for it. Others will have to speak to this.

[wolly6973]

If you want to be so technical about things... you should probably base your recommendation off of what kind of driving the person does. Not everyone lives in or regularly visits someplace where they do stop and go driving.

99% of my driving is always on the go, with little time for IATs to rise.

Also, it depends a lot on what your IC situation is. If you have a good IC or meth, IATs do not play as large of a role.

BATs are all that really matter in the end.

[MSMS3]

Originally Posted by wolly6973 BATs are all that really matter in the end.

I completely agree with this. Just remember that BATs are always going to be tied to IAT's because no intercooler is anywhere close to 100% efficient. And it would have to exceed 100% efficiency to compensate for increased IAT. For every one degree that IAT's increase, the BAT's will end up 1 degree higher than they otherwise would be. The ratio is direct. Raise IATs 10 degrees and BATs after all is said and done will also be 10 degrees higher.

[BLK_MS3]

Originally Posted by stang9779 Cobb is the top of the line for our cars.

Says who? Intake wise, Sure and CP-E is made better if you ask me.

Plus remember, without an AP you don't want a TIP. Boost spike can suck.

[hazynighthawk]

Originally Posted by stang9779 Get the CS you get more for the money, You get a tip too. If you really have you heart set on Sure or Cobb, go Cobb. Cobb is the top of the line for our cars.

i did get the cobb =)

[stang9779]

Originally Posted by BLK MS3 Says who? Intake wise, Sure and CP-E is made better if you ask me. Plus remember, without an AP you don't want a TIP. Boost spike can suck.

If you are gong to mod your car the AP should be on the list. I think everyone should get one.

[Pedal-Force]

So I've got a new (to me) 2010 Speed3. I'm looking to start making some mods (despite just getting the car on Friday). I can't help it.

I'm considering a CorkSport TIP/SRI combo and Cobb AP. Also, the air box from CorkSport for the SRI sounds interesting, helping get you colder air. Has anyone used that, and does it work? Worth it? I want an SRI, but I do spend a lot of time sitting in traffic and it's hot here. If it would actually do what it says, seems like it's worth $90 or whatever.

Anything wrong with these as my first set of mods? I'm gonna get at least an RMM, but not sure which one or if I'll get all three or anything else.

[adlpb]

Your first mod should be the donation mod, which gives you access to the For Sale section in which you can search for some of the items you are looking for.

Honestly, I can't speak for myself as I do not own the "cold air box," but I do not see it helping your air temps much (maybe 10 degrees at max), and these temps will be increased by the turbo anyway. Save the $90 and use it in either a methanol kit later down the road, or an upgraded FMIC.

My suggestion for mods would be:

SRI
RMM
AP
FP or internals
DP
etc

[Pedal-Force]

I've worked on reading this whole thread, but can't really find my answer.

Does anyone think that the Cobb or SURE SRI/TIP are worth the $100 more than the CorkSport is? I don't really care how it looks or anything, I just want it to fit well, be well made, not throw codes and give me the most HP possible. Has anyone done a dyno between the two sets?

[adlpb]

Originally Posted by Pedal-Force I've worked on reading this whole thread, but can't really find my answer. Does anyone think that the Cobb or SURE SRI/TIP are worth the $100 more than the CorkSport is? I don't really care how it looks or anything, I just want it to fit well, be well made, not throw codes and give me the most HP possible. Has anyone done a dyno between the two sets?

I honestly doubt there's any performance difference between these. For SRI/TIP it really comes down to preference. I can tell you from personal experience, having the Cobb SRI/TIP, that I have never had a CEL. 6000 miles with them.

[Scoobs]

Originally Posted by adlpb I honestly doubt there's any performance difference between these. For SRI/TIP it really comes down to preference. I can tell you from personal experience, having the Cobb SRI/TIP, that I have never had a CEL. 6000 miles with them.

But you changed the filter, why?

[Buddhamonk]

Got my SURE intake last week. The packaging was amazing, it sounds awesome, throttle response is better, I can't otherwise notice any gain in HP but the best is... NO CEL!!!

[Kydizzle]

odd considering for the money it is the best power mod you can do on these cars.. usually like 10-20 hp most peeps say

[Buddhamonk]

Originally Posted by Kydizzle odd considering for the money it is the best power mod you can do on these cars.. usually like 10-20 hp most peeps say

It's just hard to tell. 10hp is only a 5% difference from stock