MS6 Fluid Notes & DIY Pictures
 

Notes on fluids & associated part information for the MS6

Please do post corrections or suggestions-
I'll integrate to this post as appropriate

This was mostly copied & pasted from dozens of posts,
or taken from the '06 MS6 owners manual
-notes gathered mostly just to make my life easier.

based on US dollars, quarts or gallons
=============================================

> Fuel Tank
'06 MS6 Manual - 15.9 us gal


> Power steering fluid
'06 MS6 Manual - ATF M-III, M-V, or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® II)
dry fill- 1 quart

Power Steering Flush write up with pics - http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-flush-100950/

**NOTE: This is not a good area to skimp on quality. In harsh environments like autocross the power assist has been known to fail. Well worth the extra few dollars for a good synthetic ATF.**

> Brake/Clutch fluid
'06 MS6 Manual - SAE J1703, or FMVSS116 DOT-3
system flush- 1 liter

> Coolant
'06 MS6 Manual - 8.5 us qts (2.25 us gallons)
Type- Mazda FL22
Mazda OEM - part# 0000-77-508E-20
Ford Specialty Green Coolant - Motorcraft part # VC-10-A2 (updated from VC-10-A)

It seems that only Mazda has coolant called "FL22"

- - Well, OK then, just WTF is FL22, and is this going to be a PITA?

Some clarity, compliments of the BobIsTheOilGuy forums, and a poster named ponderosaTX

"...Mazda automotive coolants are green but they have almost NOTHING in common with conventional North American green coolant. Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (phosphated organic acid technology) coolant developed and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation P-OAT coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. The other major Japanese auto manufacturers, namely Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all use essentially the same coolant technology.

The only aftermarket P-OAT coolants are Japanese OEM coolants from Mazda, Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, and Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (which reportedly is identical to the second generation Mazda FL22 OEM P-OAT coolant). For the record, Ford started using Japanese P-OAT coolant technology in many of its 2009 models (those sharing engine technology with Mazda) instead of G-05. Ford evidently found the performance of Japanese P-OAT coolants was superior to G-05 in Mazda engineered engines.

Using conventional North American green coolant in a Mazda is a bad idea. Even German (BASF) coolant technology as embodied in G-05, which contains silicates and no phosphates, is a much better choice than conventional North American green for vehicles with aluminum blocks and aluminum radiators. But a genuine P-OAT coolant, particularly a second generation P-OAT coolant like Mazda FL22 or Motorcraft Specialty Green, is the best choice."


It now looks like Ford Specialty Green Coolant may be the cost-effective alternative to Mazda FL22. Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant is another option.




////////////////


> Engine:

5.5 - 6 qts
7 quarts with Balance Shaft removed

'06 MS6 Manual - 5W-30
There's a strong argument being made that 5W-40 is better
as the slightly thicker viscosity will not seep past the seals
in the turbo and may help prevent the smoking turbo syndrome.

Oil Filter - cartridge style

Oil Filter Part Numbers:
FL-2017B - Motorcraft/Ford OEM cartridge oil filter
L321-14-302-9U - Mazda OEM cartridge oil filter
7203 - Napa Gold cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)
57203 - Wix cartridge oil filter
L15505 Purolator Premium Plus cartridge oil filter
PL15505 Purolator Pure One cartridge oil filter
GL15505 O'Reilly's/Microgard cartridge oil filter
P7313 - Baldwin cartridge oil filter
HP-7013 - K&N cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)
84203 - Carquest cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)
LF594 - Hastings cartridge oil filter
CH9641 - Fram cartridge oil filter
P960 - Champ cartridge oil filter (Champion Labs, makes oil filters for other companies)
S9641 - STP cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)
M1C153 - Mobil1 cartridge oil filter

Oil Filter Wrench - 76mm/14 flutes

Crush Washer-
Mazda OEM - part# 9956-41-400

Drain Bolt torque specs - 23-30 ft-lbs


**NOTE - Short interval oil changes- fuel shear from DISI is bad mojo

////////////////


> Tranny:
'06 MS6 Manual - API Service GL-4 (SAE 75W-90)

3 qts - GL-4
2.5 us qts actual fill

-Amsoil
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle
Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG)
$12.90/qt retail

-RedLine
MT-90 (75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil)
$11.49/qt retail

-Motorcraft
Ford Manual Transaxle fluid # XT-M5-QS (75W-90 GL-4 Gear Oil)

Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs


////////////////


> PTO & Rear Diff:
'06 MS6 Manual - API Service GL-5 (SAE 80W-90)

3qts - GL-5
'06 MS6 Manual - pto - 1.3 us qts actual fill
'06 MS6 Manual - r.diff - 1.1 us qts actual fill

-Amsoil
SEVERE GEAR® Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Lubricant 75W-90 (SVG)
$13.25/qt retail
Long Life Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 75W-90 (FGR)
$11.20/qt retail
**NOTE: My amsoil rep no longer stocks Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90 (AGL), and states the SVG is substantially better. I have heard from a few folks happily running the SVG in the MS6 rear dif without adding the SlipLock additive, seems it's not needed for the MS6. I removed the AGL from this list, but if you find it locally it will be fine to use.**

-RedLine
75W-90 (75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil)
$10.95/qt retail
**NOTE: Not recommended to run RedLine 75W-90NS - doesn't contain the friction modifiers for limited-slip rear diff**

Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs
........................................... Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbs




(retail pricing from manufacturer websites September 2008)



What's the deal with this GL-4 vs GL-5 business anyway?

You can go here and form your own opinion:
GL5 gear oil bad in tranny,fact or myth? - clicky-clicky
Even more reading on the subject- clicky-clicky

In theory, and in the print of many GL-5 containers, and many parts counter guys will say GL-5 superceded GL-4 and is suitable for all GL-4 or GL-5 locations.

That said, many, including my Amsoil Rep and the Bobistheoilguy forums will tell you different. My Mazda manual also clearly states 4 for the tranny, 5 in the remainder.

GL-5 contains sulfur compounds known to not be healthy to yellow metals such as brass (read: your synchros). GL-4 has a substantially lower quantity of sulfur than GL-5, which instead uses chemicals to try & lessen the impact on gold metals.

My manual calls for GL-4
My Amsoil Rep is is vehement on this as well!





>DIY Pics:

Trans:
http://www.stable-networks.com/ms6r/...idnotes/MT.jpg


Transfer Case/PTO:
http://www.stable-networks.com/ms6r/...s/Transfer.jpg


Rear Diff:
http://www.stable-networks.com/ms6r/.../Rear_diff.jpg


>Helpful Hints:

the plugs are all either 23 or 24mm

drain & fill bolt torque specs from the FSM:
- Engine: 23-30 ft-lbs
- Transmission: 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs
- Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs
- Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbs


crush washer part numbers:
- Trans oil plug washer - A601-17-117
- T-case oil plug washer - 9956-21-800
- Diff oil plug washer - 9956-41-800


A pump of some kind is highly recommended for all three locations.
-Basic, inexpensive hand pumps can be had from almost any parts store


Squeaky clutch or shifter?



> Post-transplant start-up options

Quote:

(whoosh @ Apr 8 2009, 05:50 AM) install the turbo and connect all lines (oil and coolant) unplug the coil packs / just the connectors turn the car over for about 10-15 seconds obviously it will not start and thats the point to get oil running through the turbo sit a minute and do the 10-15 seconds again connect the coil packs and start it up don't worry about the coolant after your car is running and you are sure there are no leaks let it cool a bit and add coolant until it's at the required level

Quote:

Originally Posted by ungrave (Post 3249996) I wanted to add that the crank/no start procedure from whoosh is a good idea but not the best way of going about it. Reason being is that with that procedure you are removing the spark but the engine is still injecting fuel into the combustion chamber. A much better and easier way of doing this (and what I do on initial start up after each oil change) is to simply pull the fuel injector fuse. Open the fuse box under the hood next to the air filter. Pull the fuel injector fuse, I believe it's labeled 'FUEL INJ'. Fuses are labeled under the fuse box cover. It should be the fuse near the corner of the fuse box by the MAF. Crank the engine till the oil light goes off, then put the fuse back in. Then crank it again and it'll start right up with instant oil pressure!

thank you very much for the info, i'm sure it will help a lot in my near future.

One note: when you remove the drain plug on the transmission, you need to use the closed end of a standard 24mm combination wrench. There is a small shield around the plug that makes for a very tight fit, and a frame member right there means you can't get a socket onto it. I have a 24mm Gearwrench, the closed end didn't fit because of the gearing, and the open end can't get around the shielding to grab the bolt. I had to stop in the middle of a full fluid change to go get a wrench...which is why you remove the fill plug before the drain one. :)

reference update-

- Needs spin on oil filter brand name & part numbers

- PS Flush how-to link done

- needs clarity on different ps fluid specs
- - - 06 owners manual and service manual are slightly different, possibly conflicting
owners- ATF M-III, M-V, or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® II)
service- ATF M-III, M-V, or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® III)

Spin on: Wix 51516 is what I am using, it's a longer filter so it will probably hit the under tray if you use the sandwich plate but it works just fine stock.

is a oil filter wrench necessary? I plan on buying a quik valve on my next oil change

doesn't the quick valve replace the oil pan drain bolt? That has nothing to do with removing the oil filter housing to remove the cartridge. Because of the o-ring seal torque is often more than hand tight like you can get away with for a spin on filter, so I'd say yes, you proa'lly want a filter wrench


With the size increase, does it increase the amount of oil needed, and have you done a BSD Delete?

It's always a nice bonus to hold an extra bit of oil :)

It is a little bigger, probably takes it to the total 6 quarts instead of the standard 5.7, but it's not too much. I have not done the BSD. I also only have had to hand tighten these and they seem to seal just fine. If you need to wrench it, it should only be half a turn or so is my guess. I also have one of the Fumoto valves in place of the oil pan bolt, they are pretty cool and make oil changes a lot cleaner.

Anyone an amsoil dealer on here? Im having trouble getting 75W-90 SVG.

So from what I'm getting, the rear end is the only thing that uses friction modifiers?

wow good thread I wish I stumbled upon this before.

@aviator79 - have you checked the dealer locator on the amsoil site?


@AtTheDriveIn - afaik, friction modifier usually isn't needed in our rear diff, and I suggest starting without it. I've been running amsoil without any modifiers for ~40k miles with no issues, and when I change it put again soon I don't plan on adding any

Thanks for the info! Great write up!

Hey can someone confirm the fill and drain sizes for the transfer case. I know they are either 23 or 24 but I have to go buy the specific socket just for this so i want to get the right one. I have a cheap wrench i used for the diff and trans but it won't fit up for the PTO fill. Need a socket. Thanks

So just in case anyone else sees this and is wondering, fill is 23 and drain is 24 for pto. I blindly bought 23 so I was sure it would be 24 but actually worked out.

Subbd for use later today

I have INJ (13A) and INJ DRIVE(30A). I pulled INJ. Is that right?

HPFP?
I did mine on a cold engine, and didn't pull a fuse or do anything for pressure at all, just went at it... Only a few drops came out of the hard line, no pressure at all

I had a rag wrapped around the hard line to catch drops & to prevent the nut from sliding down the line to never never land.

No. Read the last quote in first post. About priming oil sys.

ahhhh,

He's talking about pulling the one labeled INJ RELAY, the blue one in the front corner closest to the MAF.

The 15A INJ fuse fires the injector relay, while the 30 drives the pump. Pulling the 15A INJ fuse lets the pump prime the system, but prevents the injectors from firing fuel into the cylinders.

If you're gonna oil prime a fresh engine you can hold the ACC pedal to the floor or pull the 15A fuse or the INJ RELAY. Any one of those three prevents fuel to the cylinder.

for HPFP, it would be the 30 FUEL PUMP, then run till dies to depressurize the system. Or just wait till the engine is cold & pressure has dropped on it's own.


http://stable-networks.com/ms6r/imag...rhoodfuse1.jpg
http://stable-networks.com/ms6r/imag...rhoodfuse2.jpg

Well starter wont turn. Could it be cause hood is off and alarm won't let it start? I know i hooked starter up, and had it working outside of car. Hard to troubleshoot by myself. I can tell its not a low bat.

Double check the hot wire connection on the starter. There have been so many people with problems at that connection.

I dont see how. Its a nut on a ring. I popped the plastic cap and all looks fine, so need do figure out if is getting power and starter is shot or what. Dont see how ground could be bad as it grounds itself. Maybe i fried the starter.

Wonder if the clutch sensor is not getting pressed enough....

Starter is fine. Hot wire is always hot. Ground is good. So i pulled the small clip off, as that was what obviously makes the starter turn, and ran a wire from it to + on battery and it spins fine. I have swapped relays and I can hear the relay....so. wtf

Only thing really left is to check voltage on the switched lead to see if it's getting any/enough to kick on the starter.

Again, assuming that
- Starter primary is getting good connection (and yes, that really is a problem, it's been covered a disturbingly large amount of times over the last year)
- Relay is relayin'
- Starter is not binding up and stator can spin freely

Second most common issue has been binding. and a few healthy taps on the starter body to release the bind.

U were right. I assume i am having same problem, but not sure i would call it starter primary the starter primary i would call the 10g wire that goes to it that is always hot and hooks to the bolt. The wire that is not connecting goes to the spade and is like 14g. I am using a jumper for now btwn it and the starter. Lets see if car will run, then figure out how to fix it. Obviously needs to be tightened so it makes a good connection, but to do that need to remove the plastic cover which will be a pita from under the car as it only has a few inches of slack.

Yeah, that'd be the switched lead, or trigger wire (the small one). The fat one is the primary.

Regardless, glad you're getting a handle on it!!!

Quick question; I'm swapping my motor this weekend and am going to change the tranny, transfer case and rear diff fluids and Summit Racing is down the street from me so I'll get Redline fluids for the transfer case and rear diff (already have 3 quarts of the Motorcraft stuff for the trans).

My questions is which Redline transfer case/rear diff fluid should I get?

Summit has Redline 75-90w GL4 :
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts...0304/overview/

or

Redline 75-85w GL-5 :
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts...0104/overview/

In the OP it's listed to get Redline 75-90 GL5 but according to Summit's website, one can only get one or the other.

I got the stuff in OP from here: Redline 57904-EACH Oil 57904 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil - 1 quart

75w-90 GL-5 exists just google it and find the place that sells it at the lowest price. Just remember DO NOT get the NS fluid.

I put on a Cobb SRI today, and after removing the stock airbox I noticed some what I believe to be diff fluid leaking. If you look at the picture in this thread under the title: "squeaky clutch or shifter?" there is fluid leaking out of that rubber boot. Can anyone chime in and help me out? I'm not sure if this is a really serious issue, or if it's an easy fix. I already reseated the boot back to the nipple it attatches to, but I'm not sure if there is anything else I should do

this help?

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...placed-116267/

Yes that helps quite a bit. Thank you very much for the link to that thread. Just saved me a lot of trouble.

When I took my ms6 in for fluids (trans, pto, rear diff), it cost about $275 at my trusted Mazda ship.

The tech mentioned adding a friction modifier to I believe the pto and rear diff. I didn't see these mentioned in op. Does the factory manual call out a friction modifier?

No FM needed for the PTO.

The rear diff can use it, but if it's a separate addition depends on what oil you run. For example, Amsoil Severe Gear (what I run in the PTO & rear diff) "is compatible with most limited-slip differentials. If limited-slip differential chatter occurs, add AMSOIL Slip Lock® friction modifier additive."

That pretty much covers what I recommend for any MS6 rear diff use- run without any additives at first & see how it behaves.

For the MS3 & it's limited slip diff built into the trans, many folks seem to be fond of running the Motorcraft XT-M5-QS with ~ 1/3 bottle of Ford's FM added in. The Speed3 seems to be a bit more prone to chatter than the Speed6 rear.

What would the chatter sound like? My car vibrates like a motherfucker when I do sharp turns in reverse. I think it's the actuator but it'd be a lot easier to add fm lol

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

@Raider; @CWP_MS3;

Is it possible to have this added to the knowledge base? This is great info for the speed6.