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 Old 04-13-2011, 10:18 PM   #1
 
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Originally Posted by indianaryan View Post
Guess again. The core charge is on top of the $667 price you pay for the CP-E pump.
Thats right, internals are much cheaper

Speed3eak, im gonna try to do a "HOW TO" for H&R springs.

well as soon as i get them
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 Old 04-13-2011, 10:59 PM   #2
 
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Originally Posted by indianaryan View Post
Guess again. The core charge is on top of the $667 price you pay for the CP-E pump.
Beat me to it. Their website isn't exactly clear. Your average muggle probably wouldn't be able to figure it out.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 07:42 AM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by indianaryan View Post
Guess again. The core charge is on top of the $667 price you pay for the CP-E pump.
haha, well back to getting internals...i dont get why they would charge the 400 on top of the 667...but internals it is, so KMD or autotech?

the reson why i said 260-280 was because i didnt know the core charge was on top of the 667, but now i know..
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 Old 09-25-2011, 08:39 AM   #4
 
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Read this how-to and the Autotech how-to and don't see steps 5, 6, or 7 included in your write up. Why the difference? I'm no expert.
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 Old 09-25-2011, 01:24 PM   #5
 
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Default KMD Install Failed

I got the fuel pump off the car and took out the internals, but I could not get the OE piston, the part that slides into the 18mm nut, out. That sucker was seized in there and no amount of vice grips or pliers was getting it to come out. I bought this car used so I am thinking that this is not the factory fuel pump. There were lots of other aftermarket stuff on the car that I've been finding over time. The pump holds pressure just fine, but did anyone else have issues taking out the OE piston to replace it with the new one?

I have an '06 MS 6.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #6
 
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How do you figure 260 - 280 for the CP-E pump?
It is 600+ and your core charge is 300+ = $1000
If/when you get your core refund it will work out to 600+

Internals can be had for 270 - 400. No core charge...
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 Old 04-14-2011, 08:10 AM   #7
 
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so when i go on the kmd website, the internals say for the 2.0t fsi (which is in the audi/vw engine) so im confussed
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 Old 04-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by Smily27 View Post
so when i go on the kmd website, the internals say for the 2.0t fsi (which is in the audi/vw engine) so im confussed
we have the same internals, therefore we can upgrade our just like them. seems to work out fine
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 Old 04-14-2011, 08:31 AM   #9
 
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so after you install the kmd or auto tech internals you can run stage 2 on cobb ap? with just test pipe? sorry for being noobness...
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 Old 04-14-2011, 08:36 AM   #10
 
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Originally Posted by tnayre View Post
so after you install the kmd or auto tech internals you can run stage 2 on cobb ap? with just test pipe? sorry for being noobness...

Yes.

Originally Posted by Speed3eak View Post
Yeah, it's nice if you're gonna keep your MS3 until dec 21st, 2012 (when the world ends - people who have a poor understanding of physics/math/the universe promise it's for real this time), but if you plan on selling your car, it's a sunk cost either way.
OK @Speed3eak, you got me... your thoughts on the Mayan prophecies please.

BTW... THIS IS THE DEFINITIVE FUEL PUMP INSTALL THREAD.

THANKS AGAIN TO THE OP FOR TAKING THE TIME!
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 Old 04-14-2011, 09:48 AM   #11
 
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which fuel pump would you like to recommend? protege? they have stiffer springs for 25$ or kmd and auto tech?
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 Old 04-14-2011, 09:53 AM   #12
 
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Originally Posted by tnayre View Post
which fuel pump would you like to recommend? protege? they have stiffer springs for 25$ or kmd and auto tech?
I have seen people with good results from both KMD and Autotech.

I've also seen one of the members (@lenny127 ) who has done over 20 installs say that the Auto Tech internals are the nicest machined pieces he has seen.

mod suggestions...
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 Old 04-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #13
 
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hummm i'm leaning towards autotech now...the extra $70ish seem worth it for a better track record....
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 Old 04-14-2011, 12:31 PM   #14
 
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what about PNP internals from protege garage?
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:25 PM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Smily27 View Post
what about PNP internals from protege garage?
go ahead and try them see how that goes.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 02:10 PM   #16
 
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If you are asking about the PTP internals... GTFO
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 Old 04-14-2011, 02:37 PM   #17
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I've been poking my head around the vdub/audi forums and it seems that those guys are going more towards the Autotechs as a weapon of choice. We all run the same Hitachi style pumo. I've been running them for a couple of hundred miles and they are still pumping like a champ. I get a solid 1900psi WOT. I would stay away from PTP internals. There is a reason why they are cheaper. Their tolerances on machining is very shitty.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 03:05 PM   #18
 
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Im trying to decide between KMD's or Autotechs.
Convince me one way or another.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 03:08 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by eppopipe View Post
Im trying to decide between KMD's or Autotechs.
Convince me one way or another.
Start a new thread or search guys. This thread wasn't made to help you decide what internals to get.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:23 PM   #20
 
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^^ what he said. im sure you want me to fuck ur girl/wife for you too right?

SEARCH
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:25 PM   #21
 
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Where did you find an 18mm deep well socket to take the stock internals out!?
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:32 PM   #22
 
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Originally Posted by Zbrit00x View Post
Where did you find an 18mm deep well socket to take the stock internals out!?
At the store.












Pretty much any hardware store should have em. Got mine at Sears. I had to get a 3/8" drive though.
Make sure you get a 6 pt also.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:35 PM   #23
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
At the store.












Pretty much any hardware store should have em. Got mine at Sears. I had to get a 3/8" drive though.
Make sure you get a 6 pt also.
so far ive checked the local auto stores, kragen, pep boys... even home depot, and they just looked at me and were
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:41 PM   #24
 
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Kragen is O'reilly right?
3/8 & 1/2 drive...
GM Performance Parts GM8319 - Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
GM Performance Parts GM8245 - Socket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:43 PM   #25
 
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Am i missing something? Thats the one i bought from them and it doesnt get down to the bolt.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:47 PM   #26
 
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I don't know since I'm not there.
It is just a spring, you may be able to compress it some to get the socket all the way down?
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:49 PM   #27
 
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im gona go out and try some more, and then go out and hunt some more!
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:57 PM   #28
 
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Found my problem, my bench vice was shit and wasn't allowing me
To put any force on it..., I can compress it and make it fit its just my vice wont hold..
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 Old 04-19-2011, 02:33 PM   #29
 
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Good write up bro.. definitly will be using this when i receive my internals
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 Old 04-24-2011, 06:34 PM   #30
 
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Figured I'd share my fail with you guys so others would learn from my mistakes.

Be careful when reinstalling the fuel pump back into the cam housing. You shouldn't have to force the pump back in. Just oil the O-ring thoroughly and gently wiggle the pump until it seats in its place. Then tighten the bolts down and reconnect everything.

Force the pump in like I did and this could happen...





Pinched O-ring. Which led to oil leaking all over the engine and transmission in a matter of a weekend of driving. Fuel pump itself was fine and maintained steady fuel pressures of 1800+ at WOT. Other than the leaking oil, there were no other indications that anything was wrong.

By the way. A new O-ring from the dealership will cost you $13.
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 Old 09-11-2011, 11:54 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by DingoDave View Post
Figured I'd share my fail with you guys so others would learn from my mistakes.

Be careful when reinstalling the fuel pump back into the cam housing. You shouldn't have to force the pump back in. Just oil the O-ring thoroughly and gently wiggle the pump until it seats in its place. Then tighten the bolts down and reconnect everything.

Force the pump in like I did and this could happen...





Pinched O-ring. Which led to oil leaking all over the engine and transmission in a matter of a weekend of driving. Fuel pump itself was fine and maintained steady fuel pressures of 1800+ at WOT. Other than the leaking oil, there were no other indications that anything was wrong.

By the way. A new O-ring from the dealership will cost you $13.
I sent you a PM regarding this, but I figured I'd share with everyone.

I was using non-chlorinated break parts cleaner to clean the parts before reassembly and it seems to have degraded the rubber the o-ring's made of. I noticed that the o-ring had stretched and it would definitely get pinched if I try to reinstall the fuel pump. So I wonder if the same happened to you.

Anyway, the part number for this o-ring is L3K9-13-ZE5. I'll be visiting the dealer for a replacement tomorrow.
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 Old 04-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #32
 
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wheww, man. that was bad. good think it didnt turn out too bad. thanks for sharing.

yeah you shouldnt have to force anything in.
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 Old 04-28-2011, 11:00 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by rghispanic88 View Post
wheww, man. that was bad. good think it didnt turn out too bad. thanks for sharing.

yeah you shouldnt have to force anything in.
Hey man, think you could list all the tools required for this? It's a great write up I just want to make sure I have everything i need before attempting.
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 Old 04-29-2011, 03:50 AM   #34
 
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This is what I used:
19 MM Open Ended Wrench
10 MM Socket
18 MM Deep Well Socket
E8 Reverse Torx Socket
Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
1 Zip Tie

and I would say you need a bench/table vise. I couldn't take off the internals (using the 18mm) with an extra set of hands holding the whole core...
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 Old 04-29-2011, 04:18 AM   #35
 
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Originally Posted by 2010Speed3 View Post
This is what I used:
19 MM Open Ended Wrench
10 MM Socket
18 MM Deep Well Socket
E8 Reverse Torx Socket
Small Flat-Head Screwdriver
1 Zip Tie

and I would say you need a bench/table vise. I couldn't take off the internals (using the 18mm) with an extra set of hands holding the whole core...
^^^ what he said. that 18mm nut on the pump need to be held down. a pair of hands wont be able to hold in place in order to take it out
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 Old 04-30-2011, 04:05 PM   #36
 
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I almost fuct my o-ring like Dingo did when I was re-installing my pump; the high pressure fuel line wasn't lined up properly with the fitting on the pump and it was causing the pump to go in crooked. I pulled the fuel line down, slid the pump in, compressed the spring and started all 3 E8 bolts by hand to make sure every thing was lined up properly
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 Old 05-03-2011, 01:52 PM   #37
 
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Should I reflash my ecu with the hpfp map immediately or wait? Just finished my install

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 Old 05-03-2011, 02:09 PM   #38
 
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Most advise to go easy and break them in for a few hundred miles.
You can flash the map whenever, since you won't be going WOT.
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 Old 05-03-2011, 02:16 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
Most advise to go easy and break them in for a few hundred miles.
You can flash the map whenever, since you won't be going WOT.
Ok, thanks. I get my tbe Friday from UR. So I just reflash it then

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 Old 05-03-2011, 03:12 PM   #40
 
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Another question. If my fp were to seize up on me, would I know right away or later? Drove about 10 miles right now and the pressure seems to be holding

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