HOW TO: Remove & Disassemble HPFP Spill Valve
 

Tools:
1. 10mm socket and ratchet
2. 32mm combination wrench
3. medium-size standard (flat-head) screwdriver


Procedure:
1. Using the 10mm socket and ratchet, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the shroud on over the TMIC and remove the shroud (if required).

2. Unplug electrical connector to the spill valve on the top of the HPFP.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/3bce114a.jpg

3. Using the 32mm combination wrench, unscrew the spill valve from the HPFP housing.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/4575f214.jpg

4. Using the flat-head screwdriver, carefully pry up between the spill valve base and collar as seen below. Do this in steps, rotating the spill valve as you pry to pull the collar out evenly.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/98dfea1f.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/331df731.jpg

5. Carefully remove the collar, plunger, c-clip, and spring from the spill valve and clean.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/bf253ed9.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5/e6f2f219.jpg

Reinstallation:

For reinstallation, simply reassemble the collar, plunger, c-clip, and spring in the order it was pulled out of the spill valve, and press the collar back into the spill valve base. There is no need to press the collar all the way back in; when you screw the spill valve back into the HPFP, you will reseat the collar. Apply a bit of clean engine oil on the spill valve O-ring prior to putting the spill valve back into the HPFP. There is no need for any thread sealant, as the O-ring provides the seal.

NOTE: The electrical connector for the spill valve should be pointing straight towards the radiator when the spill valve is tightened all the way down. This can take a bit of force.

Thanks for this, as I have yet to break mine down and fully clean it. I'll be doing that tomorrow for sure.

what justifies needing to be replaced?

Great write up another great addition to the how to section.

There's no replacement necessary; I have to take mine apart and clean it frequently due to going to 100% E85.

If it's clean and doesn't work, it's probably a bad coil and thus would need replacing.

I have found that smacking it with a mini maglite with judicious aggression will free it up if it sticks.

If a lil beating doesn't work... I'd try a gas can and matches.

Thanks for the write-up.

Glad I could copy something out of the shop manual for you.



Just messing with you Finkle. ;)


Tapadatass

if e85 causes your fuel system to gum up, can't you just run a tank of gas to disolve that shit?

By the way, the spill valve solenoid coil operates at 12VDC, so you can test the solenoid by wiring it up to the battery to test. The polarity does not matter.

Thanks to @phate for that information.


Tapadatass

I wouldn't switch back and forth. The only hydrolocked engine I've heard of due to E85 testing was the result of an injector sticking open after the guy switched back to pump gas after running E85. That may be anecdotal, but I don't want to take that chance.


Tapadatass

if you are going to switch back, it would be best to do it in stages over time IMO. 100%, 75%, 50%, 25%, pump.

This way, if there ARE irregularities with fuel flow, you should have a lot of time to catch it before it becomes something serious.

Is this really in the service manual? I've never seen it if it is..... i thought the service manual treated the hpfp as a "black box".

The manual does treat the entire HPFP as one part. It states that if the spill valve fails, then replace the entire pump.

My comment is a joke in reference to Finkle's call out thread from the weekend.


Tapadatass

Gotchya....

<----- doesn't follow finkle drama lol.

From way back when I first took mine apart, lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fx0uA...ature=youtu.be

IDK why that won't embed. It just wants to be a link, I guess.

You can twist the solenoid within the nut. You can take it out, as well. There is never any reason to do this, but here are some pics:

From here: http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...tml#post869482

Nice.

I was previously mis-understanding Phate's instructions, but this pic straightened me out and I cleaned mine up fully this morning as I had been having 2-3 excursions to RV lift pressure during pulls where as this used to be ~0 when targeting 1750PSI.

TBD if the issue is resolved.

Edit: On a side note, when did I go Orange?

@cld12pk2go (I see your plaid request was declined) .. about a week ago.

Congratulations... it is long deserved.

Yeah, plaid would have ruled. :arms:

Got mine apart and didnt even need cleaning oh well. I have piece of mind atleast now.

I pull my spill valve often as it sticks due to E85. Mine never has any signs of buildup or debris.


Tapadatass

what ever happened about running that inline fuel filter before the pump? i think it was phate but i havent seen anyone after him?

It hasn't been effective. @silvapain and I spoke about this briefly over the weekend, and we agree that it is likely the O-Ring in the 18mm nut that holds the internals. That's the O-Ring that seals the internals main piston shaft.

If you look at glorifiedbozo's thread, he hasn't had a single issue - so I think it's simply the condition of the O-Ring before we ever make the switch. The buildup was shown in a mass spec reading to contain oil additives...which have to come from oil...since the fuel system only has gas/E85, lol. I've seen straight gas cars with some black residue, but it is so easily dissolved in gas that it doesn't cause a problem. The Ethanol does not dissolve it as easily, hence the problem.

I have never run an inline filter on E85 FWIW.

Like @phate said, we believe it's oil seeping past the O-ring that goes around the pump piston. It's only building up on E85 because oil isn't miscible in alcohol.

Tapadatass

There's two orings, and I doubt any of it is leaking past; if anything, fuel is pushing the oil out. I'm willing to bet that the residue is from coating the internals with oil before assembly; then again it is 2 am and my head is spinning.

No, I have reassembled my internals NUMEROUS times without oil (totally dry) and I still get the problem.

if you guys think its the o ring, wouldnt it continue to happen over and over?

It does happen over and over, lol. I still deal with it.

I talked to Mazdaspeed Motorsports today, and they cannot get just the O-Ring or just the 18mm nut with the O-Ring in it. So it's a $300 venture to get a complete stock pump and test a brand new O-Ring. I'm willing to bet it would fix it, though.

There's got to be a source for a similar oring for what we need.

i should be able to find one, im a tech so i have lots of spare o rings, ill just have to wait till xmas so ill have a spare stock pump i can take apart then search. If i find one that fits itll be easy as cake to order

Lax, when Phate sends me his spare nut, I'll try to coax a ring out of mine with a pick or something and mic everything (including the piston/nut) to get you the info you need.

was bored, took mine apart and cleaned it....everything was coated in a black soot like material. 81k miles on the odometer, never cleaned. just tossing that out there.

also, only took about 20 minutes from wrenching off to back on. that included some texts and facebooking and checking this to see how it went back together

Are you running ethanol? I can't keep track anymore, haha.

He's on 91, but looking to go to corn.

It comes out very easily with a jewelers screwdriver. I've pulled mine out before to inspect it.

It's not a normal toroidal O-ring. The edges are flattened, where the cross-section is square not circular.


Tapadatass

Maybe you guys know of this place, maybe not:

Everything under the sun here (should have different material o-rings etc.)

McMaster-Carr

good service, pricing, and will allow you to order industrial supplies in low (e.g. 1) quantities.

I'm a hooker for McMaster-Carr. Best online catalog software I've ever seen.


Tapadatass