2013 Mazdaspeed 3 subwoofer setup.

[Kyle's MS3]

Hey I have a 2013 mazdaspeed 3 and looking to add my sub because the car is lacking bass lol.. I have the technology package in my car and it has a screen. Does anyone know if on the back of the screen there are plugs for my sub wires? Or do I have to hook it up through the door speakers?. The car already comes with 10 speakers Bose surround sound.

[snwslasher27]

That is a good question, I am surprised no one else thought of it. oh wait!

Splice sub in trunk, add sub back there with amp, run amp power through firewall, tap a line leaving the factory amplifier under passenger seat or at the back of the radio. Voila!

Worked well for me, I am sure there are one or a thousand other ways people have already done and documented.

[Kyle's MS3]

Thanks man, thought I'd see if it already had the ports for the cables so I wouldn't have to mess around to much lol

[UnknownSuperhero]

The Bose is different than the normal set ups. Search for how to's and you will be fine.

[JgamB]

I just ordered the PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Mazda Add An Amplifier Adapter for my Bose system - it plainly states it doesn't work with the Bose system, yet the write ups here plainly indicate it works great.

I don't want the potential interference in the signal from tapping signal just prior or just after the amp, rear speakers, or the sub wires. I don't understand how that shit works, so I went with the "guaranteed" solution for $31.

[SparkySparks]

Even with the PAC unit, you want to use the RCAs for the front speakers for better sound.

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by SparkySparks Even with the PAC unit, you want to use the RCAs for the front speakers for better sound.

Does that mean run RCAs to the Bose amp under my passenger seat? I'm completely ignorant with car audio. I saw 4 RCAs in the pic of the PAC/LOC, so I presume two of those will head back to my amp (going to run a 300w RMS @4ohm class D Pioneer amp to a 4ohm 10" sub in a slim box), so those other two lines should be swapped for the existing wiring?

If you have any references with pictures, I could use them. I've read a dozen install threads but I'm truly being dense in seeing the overall wiring strategy.

[SparkySparks]

Originally Posted by JgamB Does that mean run RCAs to the Bose amp under my passenger seat? I'm completely ignorant with car audio. I saw 4 RCAs in the pic of the PAC/LOC, so I presume two of those will head back to my amp (going to run a 300w RMS @4ohm class D Pioneer amp to a 4ohm 10" sub in a slim box), so those other two lines should be swapped for the existing wiring? If you have any references with pictures, I could use them. I've read a dozen install threads but I'm truly being dense in seeing the overall wiring strategy.

What I was talking about was the RCA cables you run to your amp/sub you are adding, use the RCA out for the front speakers on the PAC unit. From what I have read in many threads on here is that the sound quality on the front channels is superior to the rear channels.

[JgamB]

Ok, I'm going to draft up a diagram of what I think I'm doing, and allow people that know what they are doing to laugh at it. bbiaf!

[JgamB]

On the assumption I'm using the front left/right speaker outputs on the PAC unit for the RCAs to the amp... does this look correct?

Edit: I guess the part I'm missing is that the PAC is just sniping the signal, so everything else is unaffected and passes through per normal, so I don't have to do anything to the passenger seat blowse amp unless I want to replace it also. The extra RCA outputs could be left vacant.

[SparkySparks]

I can't see your attachment (work must be blocking it like they do some many things) but the PAC just gives you a remote on and RCA jacks for the front and rear speakers. If you are planning on using the stock amp and speakers and you only want to add a new sub/amp then use the front L/R RCA jacks on the PAC to hook up your new sub/amp and leave the rear L/R RCA on the PAC empty.

[JgamB]

Followed your directions @SparkySparks; and it's sounds very good. Thanks for the front channel tip.

The PAC does have a power on w/accessory wire just dangling for you to splice into and run with your RCAs to the amp, so that was easy stuff. My only problem was running out of power wire from the battery - I routed across and down through that huge plastic plug behind the glove, and then followed the rest of my wires down the driver's side foot well. I'll need to extend it another foot or two so I can conceal the whole setup under my hatch deck, then I'll be very pleased

[SparkySparks]

Are you running the power wires with the RCA wires? For just a sub it might not make that big of a difference but if you ever decide to upgrade the rest of the speakers, keep the power wires away from the speaker wire as it will must likely get interference from the power wires.

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by SparkySparks Are you running the power wires with the RCA wires? For just a sub it might not make that big of a difference but if you ever decide to upgrade the rest of the speakers, keep the power wires away from the speaker wire as it will must likely get interference from the power wires.

I watched a vid of a guy tearing down his regular 3 and he caught a lot of flak in the comments for bundling his stuff - I'm not hearing any interference, hopefully because I used some hefty wiring and I'm not drawing a lot of current.

Just an FYI for anyone else pulling apart a '13 w/tech - there's an extra 10mm bolt on the back of your head unit, not just those two obvious screws after you take off the ventilation cluster. The bracket was too flimsy to get that nut loose, so instead I took the two screws out of what I presume is a security mount via the glove box side.

[SparkySparks]

I've ran the power with the speaker wires for subs in the past and have not had issues either, I think it has more to do with high power setups or running wires to your speakers. I also want to say RCA cables are shielded which might be a factor also. When I finally settle on a sub/amp I'm just going for what ever is the easiest to route as I'm only after a little extra bump otherwise I would replace everything.

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by SparkySparks I'm just going for what ever is the easiest to route as I'm only after a little extra bump otherwise I would replace everything.

My results here. I'm beyond pleased with the support to the deck which was priority #1 , but the sub delivers a lot more than I expected.

[workdaddy]

I also Have a 2013 Speed3.. With the Tech package and Bose System.
For a while I was tacking advantage of the 3 month free sat-alight radio and also the navigation before installing the in dash double din DVD for the kiddos.

Personally, I used "T-Taps" at the location near the stock sub (the bose sub that mounts in spair tire). This allows you to tap into the "Highs" on the aamp as appose to the lows like you would with the RCA cables. The main thing to keep in mind with this, is you will want to pick up oone of the Bass adjusting switches that will allow you to turn the sub bass up or down. as id you dont have this switch, you will only have bass control off of the head unit.
Run the said wires and connect them to the 4 wire (2 possitive and 2 negative) plug that goes into the amp to run "High imput" then hook up the bass control knob (one end looks like a phone cord) and boom your good to go

If this works, it will show the picture of the box I designed and built - allowing me to lower the rear seats and still have access to place long item in still. NOTE: Requires 10" Shallow Mount Subs, I used Rockford Fosgate R2

[InkedInspector]

Originally Posted by workdaddy I also Have a 2013 Speed3.. With the Tech package and Bose System. For a while I was tacking advantage of the 3 month free sat-alight radio and also the navigation before installing the in dash double din DVD for the kiddos. Personally, I used "T-Taps" at the location near the stock sub (the bose sub that mounts in spair tire). This allows you to tap into the "Highs" on the aamp as appose to the lows like you would with the RCA cables. The main thing to keep in mind with this, is you will want to pick up oone of the Bass adjusting switches that will allow you to turn the sub bass up or down. as id you dont have this switch, you will only have bass control off of the head unit. Run the said wires and connect them to the 4 wire (2 possitive and 2 negative) plug that goes into the amp to run "High imput" then hook up the bass control knob (one end looks like a phone cord) and boom your good to go If this works, it will show the picture of the box I designed and built - allowing me to lower the rear seats and still have access to place long item in still. NOTE: Requires 10" Shallow Mount Subs, I used Rockford Fosgate R2

This is a two year old thread, don't bring these things back from the dead without a reason.

[workdaddy]

Originally Posted by InkedInspector This is a two year old thread, don't bring these things back from the dead without a reason.

Well... that's about how long I have last logged on and it was at the top of the list

But hey, at least I got to see your signature GIF being the only one that gives a shit about the rules...

Not gonna Lie - Given my job profession and the kind of month I have had - I totally needed that visual and the laugh that followed...

-So to you InkedInspector - I personally say; Thank You!!! LOL