Cobb EBCS and not custom tuned
 

I recent purchased a MS6 (mods in my signature), and noticed that it has a Cobb EBCS. The seller told me that he is only running a OTS Cobb Stage 3 map (modified to remove VTCS codes).

I am having rich at idle issues, and was wondering if this could be a culprit.

Thanks!

No

If you have an s4 and your running a ots map kiss that motor goodbye. It’s a matter of time before she lets loose.

OP join date is 2011...7 years to research shit that will answer the questions 100 times over....then to top it off, posts in the wrong area of the forum to ask the obvious.

I used to drive a gen 1 ms3, but never had the money/time to mod and tune. I really think I f’ed up in buying this car, but really wanted to get into ms6.

I posted here because I wanted to know from a pro tuner if this was compounding to my issues. All I could find doing research is that a custom tune is needed for the ebcs, and not what happens if you don’t run a custom tune.

non stock turbo = custom tune

If not running a custom tune from the tuner that has this section then why would you post here and not in a general ECU tuning section under the MS6 section on this forum?

The rich at idle errors are usually caused by MAF calibrations. No matter where you have a leak in your intake, at idle you're pretty much under vacuum so the engine would pull unmetered air rather than loosing metered air. So probably the previous owner also had a different (larger) intake and the tune you now have on the car has the MAF cal for that intake, not for the smaller intake you have now.
Usually this code appears when the difference between the target AFR and actual AFR is larger than 25% which is beyond the self-adjusting capabilities of the ECU logic, and also indicate a problem.

Another cause for the rich condition may be faulty HPFP o-rings which favour fuel-oil mixing. In such cases though there is going to be so much fuel in the oil that the oil level (or whatever you can call the resulted fluid) will be way beyond the MAX mark on the dipstick. So check that as well.

So nothing to do with the Cobb EBCS or Freektune. Please post in the right section next time.

You are right, I should have posted in the tuning section and apologize. Are we able to move this thread?

I also appreciate your input, I have been doing a lot of research lately and what you say makes total sense. I am not getting any crazy amounts of gas in my oil so I think that the leaking o-ring wasn't the culprit. I recently replaced my radiator, thermostat, MAF, PCV valve, and corrected some incorrect routing of lines on my EBCS and I have not thrown the P2188 code in 200 miles and counting.

However, I am noticing that my LTFTs are negative when cruising, so I suspect a MAF cal is needed. Like I said, I am kinda new to the tuning game and want to make sure the car is running safely.

Thanks again for the help. Next time I will post in the appropriate forum.

You would be much better off spending your money on a custom tune. Go to the Freektune website and purchase a custom tune. It will be the best money you've ever spent!

Are you really running an OTS tune with a BNRS3???

Also, fuel trims in the +/- 8-10% range are normal. Nothing to worry about.

That was my plan, and kind of the reason why I posted on the Freektune section at first.

Yes, the previous owner told me that he was running Cobb's OTS Stage 3 tune. I am truly ashamed that I did not do the right research before committing to the car. So, right now I am on a mission to ensure the car is in the best working order before getting an e-tune.

Depending on the bin, my LTFTs are between -10% to -20% while driving. Idle is around -5%.

If your intake system (from MAF to head) is without a doubt leak free, a proper MAFcal is needed.

Harness help missing plug
 

I just swapped another motor due to my old
Block blowing a hole out the back I installed everything there is just one plug for my
Cooling fan that i can’t seem to find. Its a single pin plug with a red lock tab on it
Any help please !

Thread jack..

When changing out my radiator I can across two plugs with red lock tabs: one on the throttle body, and the other connected to a sensor on the hood latch.

That connector goes straight to your battery. Just cut if off and splice it in.

Seriously, start your own thread noob.