freek tune questions
 

Its been really cold here. Anywhere from 5-30 degrees. If I get a tune now will I need another come spring snd summer? Ive tried contacting you on here and email. I want to get tuned by you asap.

@Justin@Freektune;

You will not need a different tune for cold or hot days. I believe Justin does a hybrid tune. My car has run the same map during cold or hot days for 2 years without a single issue.

Yea I have emailed and pmed him. I need to get it done asap. Its hard to log when its this cold bc im hitting overboost even on ots stage 1 map.

Have you purchased a tune through his website yet?

Just take it easy on the car while you wait for a reply. He's usually quick to respond but it is the weekend. He will set you up with a basemap and fix your problems no worries.

No not yet. I wanted my questions addressed to make sure. Gonna purchase tonight

Question answered. Lol.

Go buy and stop boosting up on your car to make it over boost when you know there is an issue.

I started my freek tune last winter and i have zero issues with my car. I did e85 also and i was finish with it in early February.

I have tuned with Justin. He does a hybrid tune and knows his shit. I live in Arizona. I started tunning in summer with it being 116* out. At times my car was very toasty. He kept it safe and fun. I'm having no issues driving this winter in 30* weather. It's not pure boost based where you'd need 2 maps. Boost base tuning is what most guides are based for and it's no longer the best option. Justin does a great job. Best money I've spent on the car. He is very patient and I was very picky about what I wanted out of my tune. I am going to be picking up a BNR S3 and he will be the guy to tune that as well.

My suggestion, go order the tune, get the base map from him, and avoid blowing up your car over $200 bucks.

^^^^ Exactly! I set up all my tunes in hybrid mod and utilize several different temp compensations, so the tunes are safe all year round (unless of course there are mechanical issues like uncontrollable boost creep)

I was able to talk to the OP early this morning and got him situated and just sent out his first map so he should be good to go.

Looks like he is local to us too Tim. haha

Would a person be able to get a separate tune for a car fitted with built engine, slicks etc for 1/4 mile hit outs even if it does cost extra for the revisions.

Yessir, I can set the tune up or create a separate tune that is specifically for any occasion.

Yum. Fresh meat :)

This is what I like to see. NE locals hitting up insanely good local tuner.

Excellent..looking forward to annoying the shit out of you to dial it in once i'm up and running.

I tryed to search but couldn't find anything I just got my base map now wondering is there a page I can go on that tells me all about the tune like what the boost levels are and what afr I should see I wanna make sure everything is good and stays safe. Plus I like having shit to read.

There will not be. Professional tuners generally lock the maps, so you will not be able to see what the targets are prior to logging.

However, if you read enough information here, you will be able to read your logs enough to determine if things are safe or not.

Working with a reputable and experienced guy like @Justin@Freektune; pretty much means you don't even need to do that though. It's smart to, but he will notice any issues in your logs on his own and let you know.

Ok I do understand why they would not tell that info I guess afr should be mid 11s never over 12 at wot and no knock to what I've heard his tunes are load based when cold and in summer more boost based so how will I know when too much boost is too much? I'm seeing 17 now so is 20 ok in summer? Do these numbers look right?

Is their anything else I should watch when it comes to his tunes I've not heard anything from him not sure if I will because I got bought the OTS tune not a full tune.

No need to Freek (pun) out man. You are in good hands as far as your tune is concerned.

I'm sure you know how to log, so please post a log or 2 for us to look at and we can give you feedback.

There is no need for you to look at MAPS or changes made to those MAPS, but knowing and reading the LOGS you take is very important.

Well I'm waiting for a revision map so I'm sure things aren't dialed in yet I just wanna know what to look for down the road. But I can post a log if you like.

freek tune questions
 

Worst thing I ever ran-OTS Stage 1 map. Really shocked Conb still pushes that out. I crept to 24 psi in a pull. Dial it back to stage 0, then get tune.

Start with this.....

http://accessecu.com/support/docs/su...0Guidance.html

Post whatever log you feel like posting.

Log the below parameters:
Time
Accel. Pedal Pos. (%)
Actual AFR (AFR)
Boost (PSI)
Boost Air Temp. ( F)
Calculated Load (Load)
HPFP Act. Press. (PSI)
Inj. Duty Cycle (%)
Intake Temp. ( F)
Intake Valve Adv. ()
Knock Retard ()
Long Term FT (%)
MAF Voltage (V)
Mass Airflow (g/s)
RPM (RPM)
Short Term FT (%)
Spark Adv. ()
Throttle Position (%)
Vehicle Speed (mph)
Wastegate Duty (%)

Worse knock I've ever seen was on ots maps. Nuff said.

Shoot me a PM with your email address (and I can touch base with you) or feel free to email me with any specific tune questions.

Every single tune is different and boost and afr targets vary from car to car because fuel quality and mods are different in every car. Generally speaking I target as low as 16psi on stock hpfp cars to 20psi on fully bolted cars. If you are on stock map sensor then you should not see more than 21psi on one of my tunes.

Afr will vary based on fuel quality as well but mid 11's is perfect for most cars.

Monitor your fuel trims and if they are within +/-8% then you should never have any issues with afr even when ethanol mixes change at the pumps. Keep an eye on kr to make sure it stays below 2.0 when wot. (the cleaner the better, but some occasional kr less than 2.0 is ok)

If you are running my OTS plus map and on your base map, then you will be receiving a second map to further dial in the car once we verify all your hardware is safe to dial the tune in further.

Thanks for getting back to me your tuning my car my logs are problty sitting in your inbox thanks for putting up the info about the tune just makes me feel better knowing what numbers I should be looking for.

O btw I'm at 14 posts so after this post I'll be able to pm you.

so far things have been going great. Car is pulling much harder. I changed my spark plugs and did compression test before getting tuned. Yesterday was the first day I took it up to 120+ in 6th gear and was getting studder again. Im guessing boost or fuel cut.

Justin told me we were basically done tuning at this point but I just emailed him about this concern that happened yesterday.

how do I tag Justin?

@username and ;, so @Justin@Freektune;

And I am not going to go back reading, but if you do not have hpfp, yeah, that probably was it.

Yea I do have hpfp. Im basically fully bolted. I dont have a ebcs tho. Only the stock one. I hope Justin can fix this issue

Do you have logs of the studder? I'm sure Justin will be asking you for the same thing, so since you are bringing it up post a few logs.

Ill post logs when I get home. Not tons of studder but got it on 2 diff logs in 6th gear.

For your tunes, did you log in 3rd or 4th gear?

Are you WOT in 6th?

I did my logs for him in 3rd as he asked. But I was taking my car up to 140 mph and I got studder so I went down to 90 then logged some of the 6th gear studder

Yikes. Be careful with WOT in 6th gear at that low of a speed.

Low of speed? 6th gear at 90 mph puts you ober 3.5k rpm so low is considered 2k in this car.

LIKE I SAID I DIDNT GO WOT UNTIL I WAS ABOUT 120 MPH IN 6TH. Either way should not be any studder when tuned I would think. Never had a car I cant take up to high speed. Im sure justin will chime in.

You don't have to yell dude just trying to help you keep your rods in the block.

No I put it in caps so people dont have to reread the whole thing lol. Thank u

Waiting on those logs homey.

Did you notice if there was any KR?

I have zero issues when taking my car to those speeds, but I gotta tell you..........WOT in 6th is something I don't do. I will wind out 5th and shift into 6th if need be.

so u stop at 120mph bc thats basically the end of 5th gear. Ive had this car up to 155 mph without mods and it didnt have studder. I didnt see if there was and kr. I will let justin hopefully take care of it.

so here are the logs! Thanks

Freektune qyestions
 

Tuning right now Fmic E33 it may be just me but car feels better on the ets tmic e25 tune
mazdaspeed 6 s3 turbo. I 'am still in the process of tuning on e33 however