Over Boost Issue, Boost leak?

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Hey guys,
I REEEALLY need some help here on how to troubleshoot
my car. Around the onset of the wintery weather I noticed a good amount of overboost from my car, I'm running Cobb's stage 1 and targeting 16.5 psi, before if i spiked at all it would be around 18 psi for a nano second and then correct into the 16's fairly quickly. Now I spike up to 20-22 on the same tune and hit fuel cut before i can even register what happened.
I've been working with my WGDC and it seems to have held my boost to ~16.5 but only after it corrects a spike from 20-21 psi. It's really frustrating because it seems like nothing i do keeps the car from spiking. I tried reverting to other maps that i knew worked a few months ago and they have massive spikes now too, any gear, any rpm(over ~3000).
At this point do i need to be looking for a physical issue under the hood? Or is there something in my tune that can be adjusted to limit spikes? Because like I said after the car corrects the spike i'm golden, until i shift and the spike happens again, corrects, rinse, repeat...
I attached a log from the other night, i can post the map too if someone asks for it, i'm not sure if it's necessary.
This issue has led to many late nights, and dozens of revisions to my ECU. So any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

P.s.
I may attempt making my BEC a little more aggressive all around to help cope (or maybe by not allowing it to compensate for underboosting so it doesn't throw me into the 20 psi range before the computer can stop itself), is this a good idea or am I just putting a band-aid on a stab wound?

[sheston]

Try lowering WGD 500 rpms earlier than the boost spike. If you look at your log, WGD is high before the spike, then has to adjust down...

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by sheston Try lowering WGD 500 rpms earlier than the boost spike. If you look at your log, WGD is high before the spike, then has to adjust down...

That' a good idea for this area in my table, but does that solve the issue that it happens when i WOT at any rpm? for example if im at 4.5k and I WOT i'll see the same spike.

[sheston]

Plot how your boost vs targets look. I'd guess they are high across the board?

[Mike@Stratified]

Halve the left side of your LEC Coarse table and see if that helps.

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by sheston Plot how your boost vs targets look. I'd guess they are high across the board?

Sorry for such a late reply, i was out of the reach of internet all weekend on vaca.
Anyway, My targets actually look pretty good after the spike is corrected, on the datalog I attached you can see after the spike I stay within 1 psi or so of my target.

Originally Posted by Mike@Stratified Halve the left side of your LEC Coarse table and see if that helps.

The LEC coarse table is completely 0'd out, I'm on boost tune. Would you suggest working on my BEC fine table??

[Mike@Stratified]

Either give the coarse table some authority or lower your wgdc base table in the area where your are spiking and/or just before it.

Edit: Sorry, what I mean is that you need to lower your WGDC base table either way, but for a more flexible tune give the coarse and all the LEC tables some authority, aka hybrid tune.

Sent while Stratified.

[ms6mil]

Originally Posted by vincentspeed3gogh Hey guys, I REEEALLY need some help here on how to troubleshoot my car. Around the onset of the wintery weather I noticed a good amount of overboost from my car, I'm running Cobb's stage 1 and targeting 16.5 psi, before if i spiked at all it would be around 18 psi for a nano second and then correct into the 16's fairly quickly. Now I spike up to 20-22 on the same tune and hit fuel cut before i can even register what happened. I've been working with my WGDC and it seems to have held my boost to ~16.5 but only after it corrects a spike from 20-21 psi. It's really frustrating because it seems like nothing i do keeps the car from spiking. I tried reverting to other maps that i knew worked a few months ago and they have massive spikes now too, any gear, any rpm(over ~3000). At this point do i need to be looking for a physical issue under the hood? Or is there something in my tune that can be adjusted to limit spikes? Because like I said after the car corrects the spike i'm golden, until i shift and the spike happens again, corrects, rinse, repeat... I attached a log from the other night, i can post the map too if someone asks for it, i'm not sure if it's necessary. This issue has led to many late nights, and dozens of revisions to my ECU. So any help at all would be greatly appreciated. P.s. I may attempt making my BEC a little more aggressive all around to help cope (or maybe by not allowing it to compensate for underboosting so it doesn't throw me into the 20 psi range before the computer can stop itself), is this a good idea or am I just putting a band-aid on a stab wound?

Post up your map. Let's have a look see

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by Mike@Stratified Either give the coarse table some authority or lower your wgdc base table in the area where your are spiking and/or just before it. Edit: Sorry, what I mean is that you need to lower your WGDC base table either way, but for a more flexible tune give the coarse and all the LEC tables some authority, aka hybrid tune. Sent while Stratified.

Ok, I see what you mean. I'll do some poking around here to see what base numbers are good to set them to and see if i can find a happy spot for my tune. Thanks so much!

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil Post up your map. Let's have a look see

Here you go!

[ms6mil]

BEC seems too aggressive on underside, WGDC are too high. Try lowering the WGDC across the RPM range like this....


Lower your BEC underside...


And drop your Throttle Tables back down to 80%


EDIT: Saved your map with some changes in the BEC, Throttle and WG tables...

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil BEC seems too aggressive on underside, WGDC are too high. Try lowering the WGDC across the RPM range like this.... Lower your BEC underside... And drop your Throttle Tables back down to 80% EDIT: Saved your map with some changes in the BEC, Throttle and WG tables...

YOU ARE SERIOUSLY THE BEST! Like honestly, way too kind of you to go the extra mile helping me and being so detailed. I'm gonna load up that map to my AP and test it out tomorrow, It's supposed to be below freezing tomorrow so it should be a good chance to see how she reacts.
Again, thank you thank you, I will update as soon as I have some results!

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil BEC seems too aggressive on underside, WGDC are too high. Try lowering the WGDC across the RPM range like this.... Lower your BEC underside... And drop your Throttle Tables back down to 80% EDIT: Saved your map with some changes in the BEC, Throttle and WG tables...

Im not at my laptop so I cant upload a datalog until tonight. But I just hit 23 psi on the entrance ramp to the loop and fuel cut.

[ms6mil]

If you've neutered the WGDC/BEC tables or zeroed them out and you are still overboosting then start looking into mechanical issues. Verify that the EBCS is all hooked up correctly.

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil If you've neutered the WGDC/BEC tables or zeroed them out and you are still overboosting then start looking into mechanical issues. Verify that the EBCS is all hooked up correctly.

Well its hard to see in this pic from another thread I started months ago. But it seems that a piece of the ecbs may have been broken and someone taped and silicone sealed it back together...think this could be it?

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...6-22.25.42.jpg

[ms6mil]

Sounds/looks like it's time to replace that thing man.

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil Sounds/looks like it's time to replace that thing man.

UPDATE:
Good news, I was poking around all of my lines, First I found that my TIP wasn't all the way down onto the turbo so i loosened the clamp and moved it down and re-tightened it and tested that. Still had unrestricted boost, so I crawled under the hood again next to my steaming hot heat shields and pulled my ebcs lines and checked them, low and behold there is a gaping hole in the wastegate line. I then took a generous amount of electrical tape and sealed it back up, test drove, and boost peaked at 11, which in this case is very good for me hahaha
I realize these are temporary fixes, and i hate the way the other vacuum line has already been jerry-rigged. So I'm gonna save up for a new ebcs, and i get to work on Christmas so that extra money should help make that buy sooner rather than later.

Thanks for your amazing help!!! I'm gonna hold on to the map you re-worked for me and start inching my WGDC back up slowly.

[Mike@Stratified]

Glad you got it sorted out. I believe we have our EBCS in stock if you are in the market for one.

[ms6mil]

Originally Posted by vincentspeed3gogh UPDATE: Good news, I was poking around all of my lines, First I found that my TIP wasn't all the way down onto the turbo so i loosened the clamp and moved it down and re-tightened it and tested that. Still had unrestricted boost, so I crawled under the hood again next to my steaming hot heat shields and pulled my ebcs lines and checked them, low and behold there is a gaping hole in the wastegate line. I then took a generous amount of electrical tape and sealed it back up, test drove, and boost peaked at 11, which in this case is very good for me hahaha I realize these are temporary fixes, and i hate the way the other vacuum line has already been jerry-rigged. So I'm gonna save up for a new ebcs, and i get to work on Christmas so that extra money should help make that buy sooner rather than later. Thanks for your amazing help!!! I'm gonna hold on to the map you re-worked for me and start inching my WGDC back up slowly.

Glad you got it sorted. Keep us updated on the progress

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by Mike@Stratified Glad you got it sorted out. I believe we have our EBCS in stock if you are in the market for one.

Yeah I'll be looking for one in the next few weeks! Thanks! Then I'll do fp internals sometime in early spring/late winter looks like.

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Quick update,
Just ran a datalog tonight after tuning my wgdc up a tad.
Looks a little low on boost in the higher revs under 6k, but
it is a work in progress. I'm still very happy with it.
Let me know how it looks

[ms6mil]

Log is all garbled, but the Vdyno looks better. As you said just start nudgin that WGDC table in the right direction.

Did you get that cracked line or EBCS nipple sorted out.

[mituc]

It looks fine, but with a broken nipple on your EBCS it's a matter of time before you run into a small bump and upset that hose and make it fall off. At that point you will be left with no boost control and may not even know it before it's too late.

Now back to your log: if you had fuel pump internals I'd say it's fine. But load of above 1.90-1.95 with no fuel pump internals is not a good idea. At lines 35/36 in your log the fuel pump pressure drops into the 1500s which is not that bad, it's just a sign that it can go lower than that in some circumstances.

So get an EBCS, fuel pump internals a TMIC, a larger intake, replace your second cat with a resonated pipe and welcome yourself in the 280+bhp club. Since you're in texas and if you want more power you should seriously think of a WMI kit for the hot summer days. WMI is good for more power as well as protection against cylinder heat accumulation.

[vincentspeed3gogh]

Originally Posted by ms6mil Log is all garbled, but the Vdyno looks better. As you said just start nudgin that WGDC table in the right direction. Did you get that cracked line or EBCS nipple sorted out.

Yes, it's mended until I can order a new one. Which shouldn't be too long at all. Then I'm back on the savings train for fp internals for like the 3rd time.

Originally Posted by mituc It looks fine, but with a broken nipple on your EBCS it's a matter of time before you run into a small bump and upset that hose and make it fall off. At that point you will be left with no boost control and may not even know it before it's too late. Now back to your log: if you had fuel pump internals I'd say it's fine. But load of above 1.90-1.95 with no fuel pump internals is not a good idea. At lines 35/36 in your log the fuel pump pressure drops into the 1500s which is not that bad, it's just a sign that it can go lower than that in some circumstances. So get an EBCS, fuel pump internals a TMIC, a larger intake, replace your second cat with a resonated pipe and welcome yourself in the 280+bhp club. Since you're in texas and if you want more power you should seriously think of a WMI kit for the hot summer days. WMI is good for more power as well as protection against cylinder heat accumulation.

Awesome advice! Thanks a lot. That order is almost identical to how I had it planned. I would probably have internals by now if I didn't have so much come up out of nowhere financially. But it's coming along.